Need help chiping my ECU.
Hey guys what's up? I just installed a "JUN" chip in a "PR4" ECU i bought off ebay about a year ago but i lost the resistor that came with it. iv'e never done much soldering but i took my time and did a decent job. I didn't put a jumper in and went to start it and it idled for a second and died. i opened an old stereo and found a resistor similar and tried it and it runs but won't ReV higher than 4K and is stuttering, so is there somewhere i can buy a resistor or what can i use to replace that. Any info would help i don't know s*** about this thanks.
do i need the resistor "the jumper" in to for it to run right or does that really not matter to much. without the jumper it didn't run and with a different jumper "resistor" is ran but didn't rev over 4K so i think i need to find the right resistor that come with it.
This chip is basically what i have, i need the resistor or something to replace it.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/chips/jun.jpg
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/chips/jun.jpg
If this is an OBD1 ECU, I assume you mean the resistor for R54?
its a 1.0k ohm resistor, go to radioshack and pick one up.
If this is an OBD0 PR4...im not sure what to tell you
Take some snaps and post them up to show us what you have
its a 1.0k ohm resistor, go to radioshack and pick one up.
If this is an OBD0 PR4...im not sure what to tell you
Take some snaps and post them up to show us what you have
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Here is the ecu with the JUN chip and the resistor needs to be jumped above it on J1 or R54 not to sure on what one, there's already one there but the wrong one tying different things.
" i don't know if the link will work haven't done this before" can't post pics directly
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...00000753936507
here's the whole ECU "not sure OBD0 or OBD1"
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...00000753936507
" i don't know if the link will work haven't done this before" can't post pics directly
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...00000753936507
here's the whole ECU "not sure OBD0 or OBD1"
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...00000753936507
It's an obd1 ecu. Why did you solder the chip into it?
Normally we solder in a 28 pin zif socket in so that the chip can be removed in and out without having to desolder and solder everytime.
Like so:
Normally we solder in a 28 pin zif socket in so that the chip can be removed in and out without having to desolder and solder everytime.
Like so:
Buy a new zif socket and install it. Then get a new chip with the proper basemap for your motor.
www.xenocron.com
All you need is under the chipping tab on the website.
You can also send it in to have them do it for you if you don't want to mess it up.
www.xenocron.com
All you need is under the chipping tab on the website.
You can also send it in to have them do it for you if you don't want to mess it up.
Let me guess. You're determined to get this to work because you spent a decent amount of money on this JUN map. Chances are, if you want your motor to run right, that chip is going to be ditched anyway.
One of the biggest misconceptions about modding cars is that Chip = HP..
Not so.
Tuning CAN equate to HP. You need your ECU properly chipped to have full tuning capabilities to extract the most usable HP, as well as a smooth power curve.
These Jun/Spoon/Mugen ECU chips are basically useless unless you have a crate motor from any of these companies, or if the basemap is made for a stock engine. They STILL need to be tuned anyway.
The ONLY time I've seen one of these things work is when my buddy put a Mugen ECU chip in his ECU for an ITR motor. He broke 200whp on a dyno day. I can't recall if he actually got it tuned or not.
One of the biggest misconceptions about modding cars is that Chip = HP..
Not so.
Tuning CAN equate to HP. You need your ECU properly chipped to have full tuning capabilities to extract the most usable HP, as well as a smooth power curve.
These Jun/Spoon/Mugen ECU chips are basically useless unless you have a crate motor from any of these companies, or if the basemap is made for a stock engine. They STILL need to be tuned anyway.
The ONLY time I've seen one of these things work is when my buddy put a Mugen ECU chip in his ECU for an ITR motor. He broke 200whp on a dyno day. I can't recall if he actually got it tuned or not.
It would be nice to get it to work, I've been wanting to install it for a long time, when i bought it the instructions said to put it in no tuning should give 10-20 HP witch would put me close to 200 HP
if it works. I'll try what HAMOTORSPORTS said a well see what happends, i'm close to getting it to work i can feel it lol. Do u need a chip to be able to tune your car for the better HP. what would i need to tune for better HP? what else can i use for a jumper for J1 i don't have a 0 hms resistor, i read some where that u can use a wire probably not a good idea i don't know let me know. i have an old stereo that has lot of resistors but i don't know what they are.
Thanks for your info definitely helping.
if it works. I'll try what HAMOTORSPORTS said a well see what happends, i'm close to getting it to work i can feel it lol. Do u need a chip to be able to tune your car for the better HP. what would i need to tune for better HP? what else can i use for a jumper for J1 i don't have a 0 hms resistor, i read some where that u can use a wire probably not a good idea i don't know let me know. i have an old stereo that has lot of resistors but i don't know what they are.Thanks for your info definitely helping.
Last edited by Charbonowsky; Mar 26, 2011 at 12:06 PM.
Thanks guys for all your help, i moved the resistor down to R54 and stared my car reved up to 7000 normal, said it's supposed to rev at 8500 redline but i drove it and can tell a difference a bit more power. do you think i still need the jumper on J1 above the resistor? maybe that will finish it and let it rev to the limit 8500, let me know what u think.
Like the ecu I posted above I just used an 820ohm resistor. Works fine for me and never noticed anything different. But if j1 is not in properly; the ecu will still be reading the stock map instead of the map on your 28 pin chip.
Dude... 0 ohms means 'use a piece of wire', preferably solid and about the right size to fit in the holes you're soldering. If you have any spare resistors you can cut off lead wire from them to make the jumper.
By the way, looking at the chip it appears that it could have cold/poor solder joints, either from insufficient heat, solder, or both. If you fix that, you might toast the chip - but as is it could give you grief later if a joint cracks. The value of the socket is that it is much more tolerant of the heat required to solder it in correctly.
All this to say - I second whoever encouraged you to have a professional do the install. If you can't then at least find a friend with a bit of experience.
Good luck
All this to say - I second whoever encouraged you to have a professional do the install. If you can't then at least find a friend with a bit of experience.
Good luck




