Cylinder 2 (from the front) had a compression of 60 so I decided to take my cyl head off to assess the damage. Everything looks perfect but when I sprayed some carb cleaner into the valves, the fluid leaked out of the intake valves on cyl 2, all other valves where dry and contained the liquid. So my intake valves on cyl 2 aren't completely sealed. What do I do from here?


Also I plan on turboing my S in the near future. I'm looking for inline pro stage 2 or equivalent, might put something together myself. What kind of upgrades should I do while the engine is apart? Bigger injectors are a given, and my heart is set on Hondata Tuning.

 

maybe u bent the valves

 

not to be a dick im just trying to offer help. if you want the motor healthy prior to turbo and still running the stock ECU bigger injectors will not only NOT let the car start but not do anything beneficial for you.

while the head is off and you want to do upgrades? upgrades for turbo? well the pistons are not the nicest compression for boost unless you want to supercharge it.

if you want to just upgrade the head get stainless steel exhaust valves for the heat to come from your future turbo-charging. if you just want it stock again send the head out for cleaning and maybe some light porting and polishing (like to Laskey or RLZ) while you are doing your valve job....

just some ideas

 

i would def check to see if the valve is bent like that guy said if not def replae the seats but if i was you if one is bad you might as well do all of them to be on the safe side

 

To see if it's rings or a head issue, you could have dropped a small capful of oil into the problem cylinder and see if compression went up @ all. If it did, that is a sure sign of ring/ringland issues.

That way you would know what the problem was before you would have to guess.

 

I'm planning on upgrading to a hondata ecu before I start it up again. I've never done any engine/head work before, only clutch, suspension, bolt-ons. How difficult is it to swap pistons? I'd give taking the head off a difficulty of 6 out of 10. I have a very good base mechanics tool set and I'm willing to buy or rent specialty equipment. I'm probably going to just change out all of the valves. I will also be doing ap2 retainers. Any downside to ss valves? Will stock valve springs be ok? I tried the oil trick in the cylinder, it did not help compression.

 

if you really want to do it yourself i strongly recomend buying the servie book it will show you step by step everything you need to do i got mine off ebay with electrical trouble shooting guide for 80 bucks def worth it it shows me complet disambly and reassembly of the whole car including trouble shooting

 

but also many people have been turboing there cars stock internals with a good tune but the tune is very important when doing it so be sure whoever tunes the car knows what there doing

 

Pull the valves out, look them over before you start buying parts.

Stock AP2 stuff is fine for most MILD builds.

Once you break into the 600-650whp+ range you may want to look into some other parts. Again this depends on applications and what not, street/drag/race/etc.

 

Well you need to send out the head to machine shop have them inspect it, most likely they will have to cut the seats it. I sAy do three angle valve job while it's there, did you miss any gears why really low compression? How many miles on engine

 

You keep saying that you want a Hondata ECU, but unless you're talking about a K-Pro you aren't going to be able to get a Hondata ECU for the car at all...nobody can figure the AP1 & early AP2 computers out, period.

Otherwise, if I'm remembering correctly, the Hondata K-Pro works if you change the cam and crank sensors to that of the K-series. Somebody speak up if I'm wrong, but I think that's what it is.

Either way, if pulling the head is a 6/10 for you, then pistons won't be that much harder. I would, however, recommend sending all this stuff off to a reputable machine shop for assembly as opposed to building it yourself if this is your first rodeo, as engine building isn't for novices.

Good luck!

 

hondata for s2000 = kpro... I will have to change out the crank and cam sensors, run some wire and new valve cover etc. I've read up on it. A buddy of mine recommended I take it to a machine shop too. So now I'm definitely going to do that and have them pressure test the head and make any needed modifications. I think I'm going to leave the bottom end alone. My spark plug backed out while driving and exhaust melted my coil pack. I rethreaded the plug hole, put in a heli coil and threw in new plugs. I got a CEL, the car sounded like a WRX and I knew it was a misfire or something of that nature. So I checked the pressure in each cylinder and got 200 for all but #2 which read 60. After I took the head off I inserted plugs to make sure the heli coil wasn't causing issues and all the plugs line up and fit tight. I was a dumbass and didnt torque down the plug. My idiot friend found something online that said screw it in finger tight then turn it 1/2 turn. After much research I found that s2k plugs should be tightened to 19 ft lbs. Much tighter than finger tight w/ a 1/2 turn. Oh well, you live and you learn. But I just got a new job and I finally have money to do w/e I want to the car so now I'm building it for turbo.

 

Just so you know the S2000 has FRM cylinders so you can't just throw in any aftermarket piston.

But looks like it isn't an issue as you are now going to leave the bottom end alone, but just in case you change your mind you should know the above info.