Ok I bought a 97 civic DX 4 door automatic with a bad block according to the previous owner so I removed it and got a complete EX automatic swap off a 2dr with harness n ecu P2P-A84 off craigslist. Every thing plugged in except for 1 plug off the harness right before the battery I couldn’t fig out where it goes (I took a pic and added it on here.)

Car cranks over, starter gets power and cranks with the key on (III) but doesn’t start, no fuel n no spark (fuel pump doesnt prime) with the key on (II) I tested pwr @ the plug and no power goin to it (by the way the only testing tool I have to work with is a test light) main relay is new & good and i hear it clickin so with the key on (II) I removed & tested pwr to the main relay plug. No pwr to term 8 but i got power from terminal 5 so I jumped it to 8 and the pump kicked on (fuel pump works). Double checked all the fuses, hood fuse 44 n dash fuse 13, cleaned the ground wire @ thermostat housing and still no pwr going to it.

Now for the no spark. I unplugged the distributor and tested for pwr coming forom the harness plug with the key on(II) and I do get pwr to the blk/yellow wire. Well Honda tech that’s where im at so far and running out of ides, any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks for reading

 

The main relay/ECU fuses you checked are for 92-95 Civics. For a 96-00 Civic, you need to check hood fuse 44 and dash fuse 13. Check those two installed fuses with your test light. Both should have voltage to body ground at the two top test tabs. Fuse 13 is tested with the key in ON(II).

For the loose connector, how many wires does it have and what colors are the wires? Posting clear pictures would be best.

 

thank you il correct that in my thread, ok yes they both have voltage. the connector has two wires.. black/ yellow line and like a teal with white line.. sorry im taking them with my cell

 

i think that plug is for the sensor in the intake only ex have that

 

thats what i thought at first, but i found that sensor plug is right off the throttle body.. unless they have two???

thanks gsrpedro

 

yea those two plugs r together

ur welcome

 

2P Connector = Evap control canister vent shut off valve

When the key is turned to ON(II), does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds? If it remains on, what codes do you pull from the ECU?

Unplug the main relay and use your test light to check for voltage at terminal 7 (Wht/Blk wire) of the main relay connector.

 

weird but the cel doesnt light up at all, i pulled out the cluster n check bulbs even changed em, also put another cluster and no cel light.

ok, yes the wht/blk wire does get voltage even with the key off. also took off the cap & rotor to test blk/yel wire pwr going in and its good where it screws in. now when i put tester on the coil, no pwr there.

 

Unplug ECU connector A, turn the key to ON(II), and then ground ECU connector terminal A16 to body ground. Does the fuel pump run?

 

i grounded a wire and ran it in to the ecu connector plug a16 turned the key II and no.

 

Where did you ground the wire? And, for verification, did ECU terminal A16 that you grounded pin to a Grn/Yel wire?

With ECU connector A unplugged and the key turned to ON(II), do you measure battery voltage at ECU connector pins A11 and A24?

 

yes it was a grn wit yel line wire. i grounded it right above next to glove box here's a pic. and i turned key on II test light comes on at pin A11 & A24

and thank you for helping me out RonJ

 

The next test requires a multimeter to measure continuity to body ground at ECU connector pins A9 and A22 (Brn/Blk wires). Can you get a multimeter?

 

I can go get one or borrow but honestly i never used one before n not sure what mode to put the meter to test on.

 

A multimeter is pretty simple to use - not any more difficult than using a test light. I'll guide you through the steps.

And just to let you know where the troubleshooting has taken you so far, the fuel pump should have primed when you grounded the ECU A16 Grn/Yel wire. Interestingly, this prime should happen even if the ECU was removed from the car, so either the main relay is bad or the Grn/Yel wire is broken between main relay connector terminal 1 and ECU connector terminal A16. A little more troubleshooting should sort this out.

But there may be two separate problems because I don't think the problem above would prevent the CEL from turning on -- that's why I also want you to test the two ECU grounds - A9 and A22.

 

okay thanks, i was able to borrow this unit. what mode does it have to be in to check continuity to body ground and where do the neg & pos pins go to get correct reading?

 

The red and black probes are already properly plugged into the meter. Turn the dial to the setting right below the horseshoe symbol and then touch the probes together. Do you hear a beep sound?

 

ok its on that setting and beeps, meter reads 0 now do i just put one pin in A9 and other in A22?

 

Good. In the "beep" setting, turn the key to OFF and unplug ECU connector A. Touch one meter probe to the A9 terminal in the connector and the other meter probe to the metal frame under the dash. Repeat the same test but on A22. Do you get a beep from both A9 and A22?

 

I touched both A9 n A22 to frame and no beep.

 

Same test but, if you instead touch, A10 or A23 do you hear a beep?

 

from A10 no but A23 yes i got a beep.

 

Double check that both A10 and A23 pin to a black wire. If so, retest A10 for a beep.

 

yes there blk/brwn. ok went bk and retested all of them. first time i wasnt getting the pins in there good enuff through the front of connector so i went tru the back and they all beeped.

 

^These tests tell you that all the ECU grounds are fine.

Next test:
Key OFF. Unplug the main relay connector and ECU connector A. Touch one meter probe to main relay connector terminal 1 (Grn/Yel wire) and the other meter probe to ECU connector terminal A16 (Grn/Yel wire). Do you hear a beep?