DC2 Sir-g acting wierd.
Hey!
I appologize for my incorrect grammar, in advance due to english not being my native language.
I recently bought a '96 dc2 sir-g (jdm b18c) 3 days ago, and it is acting wierd.
When I bought the car, the battery was flat due to it's owner not using it for 2 months.
The car has idle issues when the speeder not being pressed. Like constantly between 500-1000 RPM up and down. Sometimes it feels like it's cutting off. But it doesnt.
The other issues is. It smells, sorry it stinks of unburned gasoline all the time.
I do occasionally also have starting problems. where it takes the starter 5-6 seconds to turn the car on. And sometimes it's instant. Very random.
Also the engine sounds abit like a "diesel" engine :s.
I went for a ride the other day. And during vtec the Check engine light came on. So I paniced and drove it home with grandma style.
Today I checked the code. It gave me a code 4 and a code 9. 4 being the Crankshaft position sensor. And 9 being the cylinder sensor or something.
Now I am torn. Is it my power distributer being worn out. Or is it really the sensor being burned out.
Or maybe something else like the spark plugs?
I hope you guys can help me, because I am not driving that car untill I fixed the problems. I don't want to damage the engine
I appologize for my incorrect grammar, in advance due to english not being my native language.
I recently bought a '96 dc2 sir-g (jdm b18c) 3 days ago, and it is acting wierd.
When I bought the car, the battery was flat due to it's owner not using it for 2 months.
The car has idle issues when the speeder not being pressed. Like constantly between 500-1000 RPM up and down. Sometimes it feels like it's cutting off. But it doesnt.
The other issues is. It smells, sorry it stinks of unburned gasoline all the time.
I do occasionally also have starting problems. where it takes the starter 5-6 seconds to turn the car on. And sometimes it's instant. Very random.
Also the engine sounds abit like a "diesel" engine :s.
I went for a ride the other day. And during vtec the Check engine light came on. So I paniced and drove it home with grandma style.
Today I checked the code. It gave me a code 4 and a code 9. 4 being the Crankshaft position sensor. And 9 being the cylinder sensor or something.
Now I am torn. Is it my power distributer being worn out. Or is it really the sensor being burned out.
Or maybe something else like the spark plugs?
I hope you guys can help me, because I am not driving that car untill I fixed the problems. I don't want to damage the engine
since it hasnt been driven in awile u should probably:
drain the old gas
change the distributor cap and rotor and plugs and wires
change the oil
replace all fluids as precaution
drain the old gas
change the distributor cap and rotor and plugs and wires
change the oil
replace all fluids as precaution
"Bouncy" idle sounds to me like a possible Idle Control Valve (IACV) issue? Perhaps a vacuum leak maybe even? Thread below is how to clean it:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-clean%2A%2A%2A-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/
Wish I could help w/the rest...but this will get you started I'm hoping.
GL and welcome to HT.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/%2A%2A%2Ahow-clean%2A%2A%2A-your-iacv-k-idle-air-control-valve-1575913/
Wish I could help w/the rest...but this will get you started I'm hoping.
GL and welcome to HT.
I ordered motul 10w/40 so it is on its way with the mail.
Is the distributor cap alone enough, or should I change the whole thing?
I shall replace all the fluids
"Bouncy" idle sounds to me like a possible Idle Control Valve (IACV) issue? Perhaps a vacuum leak maybe even? Thread below is how to clean it:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1575913
Wish I could help w/the rest...but this will get you started I'm hoping.
GL and welcome to HT.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1575913
Wish I could help w/the rest...but this will get you started I'm hoping.
GL and welcome to HT.
Ahh looks abit challening :D I shall give that a try in the weekend. Thanks for the link!
And thanks :p
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Why would you use 10w-40? That's thick as hell and will increase cold start engine wear among other things. I recommend Mobil1 0w-30 for all vehicles that call for 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil (what Honda specifies for B18C engines).
A "diesel" engine sound usually indicated valve lash is out of spec. You need to preform a valve lash clearance adjustment and get them all within spec of .006-.007" on the intake camshaft and .007-.008" on the exhaust camshaft.
A "diesel" engine sound usually indicated valve lash is out of spec. You need to preform a valve lash clearance adjustment and get them all within spec of .006-.007" on the intake camshaft and .007-.008" on the exhaust camshaft.
Thats the oil I got suggested by others with b18c 
UPDATE
I changed oil, sparkplugs, dizzy.
I still got the idle issue.
BUT
The idle issue only occurs when the engine is at its working tempereture and the cooling fan is running. When the cooling fan stops, it idles perfectly. Even when its cold, it idles perfectly.
Do I got a vacum leak?

UPDATE
I changed oil, sparkplugs, dizzy.
I still got the idle issue.
BUT
The idle issue only occurs when the engine is at its working tempereture and the cooling fan is running. When the cooling fan stops, it idles perfectly. Even when its cold, it idles perfectly.
Do I got a vacum leak?
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 30,027
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Can't say I've ever seen anyone recommend 10w-40 for a GS-R engine. That just sounds like a recipe for premature bearing failure. 5w-30 is recommended by Honda, and I recommend 0w-30 for reduced cold start-up engine wear, which is when the majority of engine wear occurs.
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