Car floods out while getting to operating temperature - Searched
Well I've gotten to my whits end with this one.
Car: 1990 Integra
Engine: B18B block, B18A head.
Mods: Stock except intake.
Replaced Parts: Distributor, O2 sensor, Coolant temperature sensor (for open/closed loop mode), and IAT sensor.
So.... I didn't have this problem at first when I replaced the block, and what not, but the car was sitting for a long time, so It's only natural for electronics to go bad over time.
Problem: Starts just fine when cold, revs and sounds great. Compression is all over 170. When it starts to get to operation temperature, first the tach needle blips a tad, then the engine follows. It starts to slowly die, but if I give it throttle, it revs fine. That is until it gets warmer.
I don't have the money to take this to a shop, as I normally can easily do everything myself, but this is an electrical issue, so I will take all the help I can get.
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Then there's nothing I can do, it just slowly dies out on me, and there's nothing I can do about it.
Car: 1990 Integra
Engine: B18B block, B18A head.
Mods: Stock except intake.
Replaced Parts: Distributor, O2 sensor, Coolant temperature sensor (for open/closed loop mode), and IAT sensor.
So.... I didn't have this problem at first when I replaced the block, and what not, but the car was sitting for a long time, so It's only natural for electronics to go bad over time.
Problem: Starts just fine when cold, revs and sounds great. Compression is all over 170. When it starts to get to operation temperature, first the tach needle blips a tad, then the engine follows. It starts to slowly die, but if I give it throttle, it revs fine. That is until it gets warmer.
I don't have the money to take this to a shop, as I normally can easily do everything myself, but this is an electrical issue, so I will take all the help I can get.
Thanks in advance for any help I can get.
Then there's nothing I can do, it just slowly dies out on me, and there's nothing I can do about it.
Check your dizzy, wires, and plugs. I had a similar problem and it turned out to be my dizzy bearing went out. It would run fine for a second, but when it got warm, **** hit the fan. The only thing is, on mine, the dizzy would scream really loud. Check for vacuum leaks too. I know its not much but hope I could help.
Edit: Also check your fuel system (injectors, filter, pump, lines), I know on mine if it's warm, I have to let the fuel system build to pressure before I can even start the car. If I dont, it just sputters and dies.
Edit: Also check your fuel system (injectors, filter, pump, lines), I know on mine if it's warm, I have to let the fuel system build to pressure before I can even start the car. If I dont, it just sputters and dies.
Do you have spark once the engine dies?
Both the coil and ICU are susceptible to heat, the same goes for the PGM-FI Main Relay.
You said it "floods out" what is fuel pressure at when engine starts to stall, does it drop off? 94
Both the coil and ICU are susceptible to heat, the same goes for the PGM-FI Main Relay.
You said it "floods out" what is fuel pressure at when engine starts to stall, does it drop off? 94
Well car is stock, so no fuel pressure gauge. And yea, it's getting spark, just not enough. It just sputters and dies, and I can smell unburnt fuel. And I thought I listed, I just installed a brand new, complete distributor. The main relay was one of my concerns, so I just repaired it myself, and it works fine, tested it in my friends DA, and no problems.
I forgot to add that I put in a new filter, the injectors I replaced with spares that I know worked perfectly before I removed them.
Also, the Intake Manifold is the B18B unit, due to less hard vacuum lines. The large sensor on the back, that couldn't be the problem, could it? Or possibly a bad MAP sensor?
I forgot to add that I put in a new filter, the injectors I replaced with spares that I know worked perfectly before I removed them.
Also, the Intake Manifold is the B18B unit, due to less hard vacuum lines. The large sensor on the back, that couldn't be the problem, could it? Or possibly a bad MAP sensor?
Well, slightly strange thing happened. I decided to stick back on the original B18A intake manifold, instead of the B18B, since they have different AICV's on the back, as well as the B18A has the FITV.
So, could the fact that the AIVC was from an OBD-1 car make it not work as it should? Or if it the OBD doesn't matter, what if it was completely bad? And would the FITV make that much of a difference, especially considering my idle problem?
Because I put back on the B18A manifold, and it ran for almost 30 minutes and not a single problem. Got to operating temperature, and not one problem! Where as before The needle never even got off the 'C' on the gauge before it started to die on me.
So, could the fact that the AIVC was from an OBD-1 car make it not work as it should? Or if it the OBD doesn't matter, what if it was completely bad? And would the FITV make that much of a difference, especially considering my idle problem?
Because I put back on the B18A manifold, and it ran for almost 30 minutes and not a single problem. Got to operating temperature, and not one problem! Where as before The needle never even got off the 'C' on the gauge before it started to die on me.
If changing the manifold seems to have fixed the problem, then I will go out on the limb and agree that it was the manifold or components on it.
Anyway it seems you have found your problem. 94
Anyway it seems you have found your problem. 94
you never said you had an obd2 Plenum on an obd0 system. that was your problem. wanna run an obd2 system? gotta convert.
if anything get a nice rebuilt b18b1 head to match the block, its a better flowing head, that with stage 1 cams, you'll feel a difference.
if anything get a nice rebuilt b18b1 head to match the block, its a better flowing head, that with stage 1 cams, you'll feel a difference.
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Well the intake manifold, was only an OBD-1 manifold, because I believe it was from a very early year DC2. As for the head itself, I believe I have both an B18B1 head, as well as a slightly ported B18A head, so I'd probably use that one instead.
Also, I know that some of the valve seals are pretty bad on this head, so would it cause it to smoke a little under heavy acceleration?
But man, I never knew how much difference a perfectly clean injector harness ground can make.
Also, I know that some of the valve seals are pretty bad on this head, so would it cause it to smoke a little under heavy acceleration?
But man, I never knew how much difference a perfectly clean injector harness ground can make.
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