I can't get the rear strut bolt off.
I got a huge air impact on the bolt for the rear struts, the bottom one. And i still can't get it out, used PB blaster, Red iodine. Bent a pry bar, almost broke it some how.
Is there a trick to getting it off? I really don't want to cut and drill the thing. Also does anyone know the part number for it? It's a 2001 civic lx 2 door.
I thought for sure the bolt would break or give, the impact gun is used to take the bolts off of semi-trucks.
All feed back is welcome, thanks guys.
Is there a trick to getting it off? I really don't want to cut and drill the thing. Also does anyone know the part number for it? It's a 2001 civic lx 2 door.
I thought for sure the bolt would break or give, the impact gun is used to take the bolts off of semi-trucks.
All feed back is welcome, thanks guys.
the shock/strut has to come with bushings. If you've tried all that and didn't have any luck taking out the bolt...then the best thing to do is to torch it out or cut it. It's not gonna move if you've really tried all those techniques.
I think the chinese strut i have has the bushing in it already, or it's just metal instead of the bushing no sleeve.
NEVER had this kind of problem for a strut though.
Is it not moving at all?
I've never heard of a torch/giant impact combo not snapping or causing a bolt to at least turn.
I think the only option you have left is drilling it out, I didn't even need to bust out the breaker bar or impact to remove mine.
I've never heard of a torch/giant impact combo not snapping or causing a bolt to at least turn.
I think the only option you have left is drilling it out, I didn't even need to bust out the breaker bar or impact to remove mine.
Yeah... Just not looking forward to drilling it out and break drill bits...
Anyone know the part number? Hopefully honda has it in stock how nice would that be.
Anyone know the part number? Hopefully honda has it in stock how nice would that be.
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Oh quick question guys, i was going to do the rear shocks in a month you don't think my tires will wear really horrible in that time do you? I don't want to get an alignment twice. It's the same price for the front alignment as all 4
Sorry I'm flooding the forums, i found THIS on e-bay, is this what i need to replace on my 2001 civic lx, that it bolts into when i cut the bolt? I want to replace it because it might be easier to do that then drill it and retap it.
But i wanted to ask on here, rather then jack up the car and check it out, to make sure that fits.
But i wanted to ask on here, rather then jack up the car and check it out, to make sure that fits.
I've done my rear struts just recently and had no issue at all with the lower bolt... was using impact tools but not even to full torque. You definitely have an issue here. I would suggest heating it with a blow torch and then giving it again maybe? (if you replace the whole strut as the bottom bushing will catch fire). Is the bolt overly corroded? was it thread locked or something? Good luck.
I've done my rear struts just recently and had no issue at all with the lower bolt... was using impact tools but not even to full torque. You definitely have an issue here. I would suggest heating it with a blow torch and then giving it again maybe? (if you replace the whole strut as the bottom bushing will catch fire). Is the bolt overly corroded? was it thread locked or something? Good luck.
SENSEN e-bay stuff, fronts ride really well, and people who have them on the rear don't complain. So i don't see a problem. The bushing for the bolt is a metal sleeve anyways. On the KYB's i think it's just a metal mounting point too.
+ 1 for heat & beat.
So I looked at my "monroe sensitrack" ones. There is about 1/2'' rubber bushing between the metal bolt sleeve and the bottom of the strut body. As long as there is no play between the sleeve and your bolt it should be fine, maybe just throw down some white lithium at the contact points. Keep me posted on that bolt situation.
So I looked at my "monroe sensitrack" ones. There is about 1/2'' rubber bushing between the metal bolt sleeve and the bottom of the strut body. As long as there is no play between the sleeve and your bolt it should be fine, maybe just throw down some white lithium at the contact points. Keep me posted on that bolt situation.
It ended up having a rubber bushing in there..
We ended up heating it up so much the nut that is factory stuck to the mounting bracket, came off clean from the bracket. So we ended up buying a nut for the new bolt threw that on and we were good.
I don't know why... But one side came free with a impact gun, so saved me an extra 2 hours cutting and messing with it.
Sad part is the rear struts were still good...
We ended up heating it up so much the nut that is factory stuck to the mounting bracket, came off clean from the bracket. So we ended up buying a nut for the new bolt threw that on and we were good.
I don't know why... But one side came free with a impact gun, so saved me an extra 2 hours cutting and messing with it.
Sad part is the rear struts were still good...
You're saying that the threads that the bolt was screwed into, broke free from the whole bracket that it's welded into? hahahaahah, very nice.
Ya, but the braket was fine, messed up stuff! Last major car repair i did on the 93 toyota celica... The head bolts stripped, and i had to drill them! Cars hate me.
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