So guys I have a 88 HF Crx with a 99-00 B20B JRSC everything is converted to OBD1. The car has been sitting for a while and the battery died. I have the car jumped off of my 2010 1500. I have checked to make sure Im getting fuel and I have all 4 injectors spraying and spark from each injectors but the car wont start but just crank over. If I spary starter fuild in the intake I can get it to start. I added seaform and ~3 gallons of fresh 93 octane fuel to the car. I added a small amount of oil to each cylinder to help lub the cylinders and the car attempted to ignite the oil. The car it tuned with Ectune and the sat for ~ 1 year while I was redoing a few things. I did notice that when you turn the car to ONII the CEL light comes on for ~2 seconds like normal but then it blinks 3 fast blinks then goes off and does not cycle.

I did notice that the shop never installed a O2 sensor or what looks like the temp sensor(not really sure...its extended from the back of the block and looks like it should plug next to a coolant line below the TB)

Any ideas or things to check?

 

yes

 

So you got it to start by spraying fluid into the intake - right?

Pull all your plugs and crank it over a few times. Do you smell fuel?
My guess is probably not.
If it does then disregard the rest of this post... do write back with your results though.

When you turn the key to ON can you hear the fuel pump whir for a couple seconds?
I think you probably do since the CEL goes off like it's supposed to.
If not, then something is up with the fuel pump and you should troubleshoot it.

If it does whir, then unbolt the fuel filter. Older cars and the fact that it was left sittng probably made some debris settle at the bottom of the tank that got sucked up into the pump and clogged the filter. Running Seafoam in the tank just makes this worse as it takes all the grime right to your filter. Put the hose from the fuel filter that goes to the gas tank into a bottle and turn the key to ON. Some fuel should pump into the container. Change out the filter if it does and try starting it.

 

I pulled the fuel rail with the RC injectors still attached and cranked over the car...all four injectors sparyed. I disconnected the return line going to the remote FPR and emptied ~1 gallon of fuel into a empty fuel can. Fresh fuel filter from summit racing...? just not sure

Can ECTUNE loss calibration from sitting with a dead battery?

 

As I recall, ECTune runs realtime off Moates Ostrich, right?
So it's not like you permanently burned a ROM and chipped your ECU with it.

I think that maybe your Ostrich's back-up battery probably died and took your program with it.

 

ok so I have a spare obd1 LS ECU and a spare P28 Auto ecu I can swap in but as far as injectors what would I need to pick up? Im still running the stock resistor block so if I can remember corectly the injectors Im running are RC550's PnH. What car's injectors can I run JUST to get the car started and ideling?

 

also another thing is could my Fuel Pressure be to high? What would everyone think I should be at? Im at about 50psi now with Vac line off and pump primed.
Here are my mods.
99 JDM B20
JDM CTR Tranny
JRSC LHT Intercooler
SSA Stage 1 street/strip PnP Head
Crowler Stage 2 Turbo Cams
Golden Eagle Cam Gears
Crowler Springs and Retainers
CC Stage 3 Clutch Kit
CC 8lbs Flywheel
Hasport Hydro to Cable kit
Innovative mount B-series Mount Kit
Kamikaze header
Tanabe Racing Catback
2.5" Test Pipe
Aeromotive FPR
AEM Fuel Rail
RC 550cc Injectors
Custom Water tank for the LHT intercooler
Custom Intake with meth injector bung
Cooling Mist water/meth injection Kit
EG Half size Radiator with Flex-a-Lite

 

It's not a problem to use either high or low impedance injectors with the OBD1 P28.
The "problem" is getting the injector that fits your fuel rail and manifold properly while keeping your resistor box.
You will need a low impedance injector (incorrectly referred to as an OBD0 injector) that fits your intake and rail.

Maybe an old 90~93 Integra????

 

If I just swap in the spare ECU should it start the car with my RC550cc injector?

 

mmm are you sure your dizzy is working fine??and the trholle body is open right? because if its close it wont turn on..

 

yes throttle body moves freely and the Dizzy is brand new the car ran after the new dizzy was installed but I only ran it for ~5-10 mins maybe 4-6 months ago

 

It won't.
The ECu can't handle the flow of those injectors and they will just dump fuel.

Do you have the ECTune tuner? I would figure it would be fairly easy to get it to idle on a basemap.

 

no i dont the tuner did all of that...I dont even know what all is needed to hook up to it. Sadly because I work on PLC's and AC drives for a living lol

 

Hmmm...

I think I would be opening up the Ostrich and checking voltage on it's battery just to make sure if it's dead or not. Would suck to go through all the hassle and find out that it's something else.

Anyway, there used to be a couple companies that sold basemap chips.
Xenocron is one of them and that other I forgot. I think i was someplace out in Florida.
If that spare P28 you have is chipped it might be worth checking into. Then you can leave your current setup alone and not mess with injectors or anything.

At worst, the Ostrich plugs right into a chipped ECU socket so it could be removed temporarily for a basemap chip.

 

ok I opened up the ECU and there is no battery just a SST Chip (F512) model so it looks like its a burned chip...so would it mean its like a flash drive and doesnt require power to retain the map

 

Nice! so you don't have the Ostrich at all.
... which is odd to me since you said you were running ECTune.

I'm out of ideas.
Very odd that you have fuel and won't run off fuel, but will run with starter fluid sprayed into the intake.
Sounded very fuel map related to me + the weird CEL blink you are getting.

EDIT: I went to ECTuner site and the 'Pro' version doesn't allow for burning chips. However, they have a 'Tuner' version that does.
Had to dig for that... they don't even have the 'tuner' version for sale in their online store.

 

ok so I got the car started!!! I changed the spark plugs and replaced the spark plug wires the car seemed to idel fine but now the fan wont kick on...The tuner had the FAL fan wired to run all the time I rewired it per the Manual but it doesnt kick on. I did notice that there is a sensor below the TB that isnt plugged in and I wire thats extended from behind the block. but the two dont plug into it. The grey plug only has 1 slot and the locking tab but the sensor has what apears to be 3 *****...any ideas?

 

Stock location for the ECT (engine coolant temperature switch) was on the back of the block near the oil filter.
To the best of my knowledge, the B20B has the ECT on the thermostat housing.

This is how is should be wired. The only change that needed to happen for the swap was that the two wires from the back of the block got extended to the thermostat housing.




If you want to have the option of controlling the fan manually for race or whatever, then splice a wire into the YEL/GRN wire of the ECT and hook it to a switch.
The other side of the switch goes directly to ground.


The difference between thermostat housings. The one the right has the ECT.



Stock location of ECT on some motors
It is the two prong deal.
some engines may have a non-functional hole for this on the back of the block.
It would be non-functional because the ECT needs to sit in the water passage in the block - non-functional holes aren't drilled into the water passage and putting an ECT in there won't work.


.

 

well my throttle body has the same thing. i have a da with a b20 vtec and the throttle body has two sensors. the guy that sold it to me siad just plug the back one and the sensor on top is for newer cars. but i really dont know and im have an obd0 harness with obd1 ecu.

 

4dref- yeah thats the way I wired it...Im pretty sure I narrowed it down to the Fan Relay. I hooked yel/grn to ground and blk/yel to the battery and A to B was OL so...bad relay. I jumpered A and B and the fan kicked on.