Hello all. I have done a lot of research on my issue and have not found an answer that applies to my particular situation. So here is what's going on. I have a 96 integra ls with a b20b. When the car is completely cold like after sitting over night it will not start. It will crank fire up and shut off. But if I give it a little gas and bold it to about 1500rpm it will stay running. And after about thirty sec it will idle on it's ow. But is very rough. And if I try to drive it it is very boggy. But once it reaches operating temp it will idle at 1k just fine and will drive half decent. If I get on it it has good power until about 4-5k the. You can feel the power cut out. And ocasionly if I'm in a higher gear and the rpms get low and I give it gas it will bog then catch and stop bogging. So here is what I have do e so far to try and fix the issue. I was throwing a cel for no cps reading so I rewired it to think there was a cps. It was also throwing a code for the coolant temp sensor I replaced that and it was throwing a code for the downstream o2 sensor. I also replaced that. Once all of that was replace I no longer had any cel. But car still ran bad and after about a day of driving cel came back on throw a lean bank 1 code. (which it never threw b4 just started now) so thats where I'm at now and I'm at a loss not sure what to try next. Thanks I. Advance for the help.

 

Sounds like your car is running too lean at idle. If you were a student you could bring in your car to our class for free, hook up the Snap-On Modis and check precisely how much vacuum, fuel, and air you are getting. Bad idle could be caused by a multitude of problems, not always bad sensor, could be an electrical problem where a sensor is sending back incorrect volt values due to it receiving low reference volt values. It can also be that a sensor isn't even getting voltage(bad ground) or there is some resistance somewhere in its circuit which again will cause it to send the wrong signal.

The cool thing about the Modis though, is that it has every kind of meter to check for electrical problems, frequencies, timing etc. It will even do trouble shooting and self test systems on a vehicle all on its own. Bad thing is that it cost around $10,000 each and the software an additional $12,000 per region.

Take it to an ASE certified shop. Just describe the symptoms, ask them to test it(recreate the symptoms ). Whatever you do, do not tell them what you think is wrong or what you think should be fixed, because they may do it and it wont correct the problem, then they may tell you its something else. Let them figure out the problem and what to fix.

 

Dont know if this helps at all but when i replaced my b18b engine, i had switch the heater sensor with the sensor on the throttle body, i believe TPS or FICA sensor? car would run but if i gave it gas with pedal i could get it to hold at about 1000 but would die...

 

What ecu are you running?

 

Ls

 

obd2 ls ecu?

For a b20 it's better off to run a chipped ecu with a ls basemap so you can tune it.

I had a guy running the same thing you were with almost the same issue. Burned him a ls basemap onto a chipped ecu and ran like a champ after that.

 

Yea it's obd2 I will have to try that. What's that usually run price wise

 

You will need an obd2a-obd1 ecu conversion harness which runs around $80 or so. Chipped ecu with basemap from H-T sponsors run around $160 excluding shipping.

You can PM me if you're interested. I have one that I can burn you a basemap for.

 

Ok now by running that ecu I will not pass pa emissions inspection correct?

 

Probably not, I don't do emissions so I have no clue if you will or not. Every state is different.

 

Ok so yesterday I replaced the fuel filter, cleaned the carbon build up in the throttle body and did a valve lash adjustment ( almost all of mt valves were off by 3-4 thousandths) but while doing the valve lash I noticed that my timing is off a tooth or two because when the timing arrow on the cam gears were at the 12 o'clock position one would be perfect and the other would be off about a tooth or two. Going to replace the timing belt and do the timing this weekend. So what are the chances of this being the reasont car is running the way that it's is. Also the cel has not come back on since I reset it yesterday after doing everything.

 

Timing is a big factor. Re time it and see how it runs.

 

Ok so finally did my timing and is still lack power and boggs out occasionally. Has not thrown a code yet but still may won't know till tomorrow also don't know if it fixed the cold start issue. Will be able to tell tomorrow but I guess my next steps will be check ignition timing, new dizzy cap and new upstream o2 sensor