so hey i give help where people need it andi can offer it, but i need some in return now.

I'm not much of a brake man, and well this may sound easyto some people but input is appreciated.

I took my brakes apart such as hubs, calipers, rotors etc for work. i got theh ubs back on and rotors, i just got the calipers apart, the brake fluid lines were off, so bleeding is in order.

problem is, my shims came out of the caliper bracket and the botls etc.and im replacing my pads so the questions are.

the top bolt on the caliper bracket is out and the bottom one, but the top round piece it goes intob4 the caliper turns or moves, is this normal?

also i think shims r bent so should i buy new ones or just bend them back, ( the small things that hold pads in the bracket).

now the car has been sitting for 2 years, will the calipers be seized from not being used or are they okay to just bolt back up?

now the hard questions. since the lines were taken off caliper fluid leaked out, i wanna bleed the brakes to make sure no air is in lines, also the fluid is 5 years old and needs replacing anyway cause of mushy pedal feeling.

whats the best way to bleed the brakes, do the car need to be level?

any input is awesome, thanks my boys !

 

1. normal for the round piece to turn and move, yes
2. I would just rebend the shims
3. Car sitting for 2 years: In the rain, quite possibly . Not in the open, not likely. You can find out by placing a thin piece of wood across the caliper piston and using a C clamp check to see if the piston moves.
4. Best way to bleed IMO is having someone pump the brake pedal say 3 times (you are at the bleed plug) on the 3rd pump the person depresses the pedal steadily down-during this time you open the bleed plug-fluid and air flies out and you close the plug(this is done quite rapidly-before the pedal hits the floor)this requires verbal co-ordination so when the other person says 3 and she/he starts depressing the pedal you open the plug.
do this to all 4 hubs, there is a recommended pattern don't quite remember it except that you do the driver front last. Of course don't forget to recheck fluid level in reservoir as you do this. Level I don't believe is necessary since its a closed system.
5. Don't waste your time or money with the self-bleed screws/plug that you can buy and install in place of the oem ones, at least for me they have never worked.
Flaming not necessary folks just suggesting and trying to help

 

great info there bro, and yeah the car has been in storage inside, so no rain or any weather at all.

do i need keep adding to brake resivior as the old fluid drains? cause i want to drain all fluid into new stuff.


and i get my boy to pump it twice and then on the 3rd pump as hes pushing down i open it and close it b4 he hits the floor?

if i do anything wrong or w/e will i be able to stop when i test teh car lol

 

I assume you will install new pads, if so, you will need to push the pistons back in anyways. You need to bleed the brakes starting with the wheel farthest from the reservoir and ending with the wheel closest to the reservoir, that is the sequense I learned when I worked at Brake check. You can drain all 4 wheels at once, gravity will do the work for you. Ther refill the reservoir and start bleeding the brakes. Check the brake discs to ensure no replacement or resurfacing is needed before you reinstall the calipers. Make sure to grease the sliding pins welll before reinstalling. Apply some anti squeal to the shims before you place them on the pads.

 

what grease should i use on the sliding pins.

and basically just let the fluid drain out of the lines by openening the valves and letting them drain out all at once?

so i assum the sequence would be right rear left rear right front left front?

 

1.You can buy caliper grease at a parts store.
2.Yes
3. Passenger rear, Driver rear, passenger front, driver front.