Okay so heres the deal i have a personal goal of getting my build into the 12s NA. I just ran my car at MIR this past weekend and it went 13.3 on only the second run. but i only got two runs in. Anyways im new to the track and any advice that would help me out would be appreciated or any ideas on parts of my setup that might be holding me back. So basically trying to hit 12s without diving back into the motor and spending a ton of more money.

Setup:

Chassis: 2000 integra GSR 2270 pounds without me in it (im 190)
Engine: stock block gsr 191whp dynojet. head is built. Only using 2.5 inch intake. 2.5 exhaust.
Tires used: MT Slicks 22x8x15 at 13 psi launched at 7500 rpm.
Transmission: gsr without LSD stock 4.4 FD

This is the break down of my run:
1.866...60'
5.541...330'
8.558...1/8 at 81.34 mph
11.154...1000'
13.368...1/4 at 101.20 mph

 

practice grasshopper. You ran twice and expect a 12 sec pass on serverly under powered car. i was running similar time. except i was using 22x8x13in slick. at times it seemed like i couldnt go any faster but it took 6 months of weekly practicing to get there. You said built head so you have to be specific on what cams, header, intake mani, tb your using.

For free mods might want to strip the car down, like removing passenger side seats, remove bumper supports, a/c stuff behind the dash, sound material, rear seat belts, sunroof, remove your exhaust etc

my integra weighes in at 2268 with all the above removed and fal rear glass with cf hatch. you can do it with what you have but you have more go fast options. above all keep practicing.

 

Yeah it just seems like it wont go faster, but i know i need to hit the track more.. Anyways the head has been milled with 2 ply Headgasket crower stage 2 cams, VT, lightly ported Skunk2 IM, 65mm TB Portmatched, lightly ported intake side of head, 310cc injectors, Hytech rep. header, 2.5 exhaust with cutout, 2.5 cai intake. Should i maybe lower the tire pressure to 9si and launch at 8000 rpms?

 

3in intake and a better intake manifold wouldnt hurt. but practice is the biggest thing your gonna need.

 

So besides hitting the track more would running open header help? i know taking off the exhaust would save me some weight. any more ideas on tire pressure and launch?

 

Seems like a great time for the setup. Gl on hitting 12s I would be very very happy with those mods and that time your first time out.

 

A thing that would feel like alot more would be to run a 4.9 fd if you want but if not 3 inch intake and exhaust, along with practice, but im trying to do the same thing but in a eg civic hatch

 

for one the 2.5" exhaust is probably hurting you on power. So yes removing the exhaust to 1 save weight and 2 make a bit more power would probably get you there.

Next is get an LSD and pull better 60's. I can pull those 60 ft's on a street tire with lsd.

A 1.6X 60ft alone will get you into the 12.9 range. A better 60ft mixed with the removed exhaust to save weight and make a bit more topend should get you into the 12's.

 

Run open header if the car doesn't lose power, Try launching higher with less air in the tires (Like 9psi), preload and shift faster.

 

Open your wallet a little more

 

So drop the exhaust mess around with the tire pressure and i will be buying the 3inch intake this week then aswell and probably retune for open header as retunes are free for me. I just dont know if i have the money to splurge for the LSD even tho i know it would be a big help..

 

It's possible to run 12.90's with a 100mph trap, but the 60' needs to be in the low 1.7's, preferably 1.6 range and it needs to be shifted quickly. don't lift when you shift, not great for your drivetrain but it'll help to get you that ET.

 

yeah man ,flat foot it and drive it like it owes you money.pre load.take some vids so you can see what you are doing wrong and learn from it.

 

drop the exhaust, preload, full-throttle shifts, 7-10psi in the slicks and loose some interior.

with the current setup you can also hit 12's but you need to drive it, loosing interior and exhaust will help you

i ran a 13.3 @103mph on street tires and a bone stock 96'spec b18cR swap in a EJ1 and was still gainig ET

 

put a dang lsd in the tranny and your golden "12's here i am chiching"

 

step up to a 3in intake with velocity stack and possibly play around with lengths.

When ya headed back id like to check your car out and I might be there with my junk this weekend.

 

non bad for what you got....no lift shift for sure...and just teak some minor things and you shoulf get it a 12.9

 

Okay so full throttle every shift? never thought of that one.. Im thinking about jacking up the rear suspension to put more weight over the front too. and as far as the weight issue eveything is already out of the car except the sunroof under the dash material. no metal has been cut no carbon parts and full glass weighed in at 2270 pounds without me.

 

Yeah man is see your in the area of MIR. Shoot me a PM and ill let you know if ill be around.

 

Its funny. My dc2 with everything removed like same as in your car weighted in at 2260 with out me in there. Next i will be removing the sound deadening material. Except your in the 13s already and im struggling to get a 13.9 out of my setup.
Also you can run some skinnies in the back.

 

Slicks will help you out alot, atleast they did for me.

 

Do you know the DA for the day? That can make up the difference. Just playing with the rpm you shift might get you closer. But for a everyday type of 12 second ride you'll need more power or less weight.

 

Well MIR is very near to sea level and it was about 55 degrees the day i ran. Not sure of the humidity or barometric pressure..

 

A diff, and seat time=12's

Come hang out at Capital on Sunday. Semi-local

 

I know. Im in the proces of doing an itr manifold swap onto a gsr head. cutting the flange on the itr mani cuzz its craked and welding on an gsr flange. Coilovers. rdx injectors. slicks and tune tune tune. Basicaly i will have a poormans type r setup with out the b16 head. Im running a b18c1 block with usdm itr slugs. gsr rods with arp bolts. stock head stock cams.