This is my first post on H-T. Im all jazzed up about finally getting my audio set up completed. I have an 04' Civic Coupe Lx 1.7 M/T. Below is a list of components that are being installed:

Alpine CDA 9887
Alpine Imprint PXA-100 DSP
MB Quart Q216's Front Door
MB Quart Q Tweeter's were replaced with CDT DRT-26 Silks (Titaniums too Harsh)
CDT 526 XTSAT Stage Front
CDT CL-69 CX Rear Deck
Front Door & Rear Deck powered by JL HD600
Sub Amp JL HD750/1

No sub yet but most likely JL 10W6V2

 

So the first step is to lay out where I intend on installing these components.

Since I am going to use two rather high wattage amps, power supply and grounding needs to be solid.

I have replaced the OEM AWG ground with a 1/0 gauge ground using a Stinger Batt terminal. I connected the Gnd to the same spot on the inner fender after removing hpaint using a birnishing tool. A burnishing tool is very effective removing the paint in nice clean circle where the terminal lug is bolted through. I also coat the connection with "coppershield" electrical contact paste to prevent corrosion.

I installed a 1/0 gauge positive cable using a Stinger Batt. terminal which also has aux. locations for the OEM connections. The power cable was routed through the firewall "bung" fitting on the passenger side down low on the firewall. A Jl Audio in-line fuse holder was used approx. 5" from the battery. The power cable routes down the passenger side under the carpet to the area under the passenger seat.

Under the seat I installed a Stinger distribution block with 1/0 in and two 4 gauge outputs. One leg will go under the passenger seat and the other routed across to under the drivers seat.

I prepared the grounds for the amps using leftover 1/0 gauge from the Batt. Gnd. cable. Both are 3" long and are attached to the seat mounting crossmember the same way I did the Batt. Gnd under the hood.

The remote turn on circuit I used employs a relay set-up as I will be powering not only the two amps but the Imprint DSP and the SAT tuner interface. Putting too much load on the HU's remote output can damage the HU's output causing nothing to turn on.

So thats it for tonight, all comments and tips are welcome. If you think I am making a mistake please let me know.

 

10w6v2 seems like a bit of overkill no?... Whatever you do, make sure you dynamat/sound deaden appropriately or your going to sound like a tin can rolling down the street. Don't forget to set a strip behind your license plate.

PS- Good HU and speaker choices!!!

 

Hmm, you are the 3rd person to say that sub is overkill.... I will reconsider.

The entire back of my Licsense plate is coated with neoprene!

The lower 6" of the inside of the door panel is coated with dampening mat'l. Could'nt really reach any further. Hopefully I have addressed the all the tiny "rattles" in the door panels and I will be using baffles in the front and the rear deck.

Thanks for the advice 'jewz