decided to go lsvtec on stock shortblock. what needed?
I plan to build the motor later but for now other than the head and cam, gaskets, and such what would I need? I did searching but found mostly people building motors and not much on stock shortblocks. I know people say gsr oil pump but I found a thread saying all 96+ have the same pump? I'll post up the thread when I get home from work. phone posting sucks.
You should put new rod bolts in if you plan on revving it out.
Otherwise it kind of negates the point of doing an LS vtec when you make power up top but cant rev that high (safely).
Otherwise it kind of negates the point of doing an LS vtec when you make power up top but cant rev that high (safely).
I also heard stock ls rod bolts aren't an issue. When you say "rev it out" what does that mean? 20,000rpms? I was thinking about reving it to 8,000.
If you are looking for a temperary build until things get under way, you will be fine reving to 8k with your set-up. Dont 8k from redlight to redlight but occasionally. I have heard good stories and bad stories w/ bone stock oem lsvtec builds. My buddy did b18b1 block b16a head, w/ arp head studs, rev limited to 8k and has been fine for over a year now. Another friend also used a b18b1 block with a b16a head and the first time he went to 8k he spun a bearing. Just make sure everything looks like its in good shape before assembling.
Face palm all you want but like I said I heard from two people that directly told me that the rod bolts are not an issue.
But I guess if I plan to "rev it out" I should replace them.
Originally Posted by Someone that seems to know
The only time you see a Honda rod bolt break is if you weld a bearing to the crank by running it out of oil/break an oil pump, or if you forgot to tighten it, or if you reused the rod bolt across five or six motors so that it is work hardened. It's good practice to replace with $40 ARP bolts for a fresh build, but that 8mm vs 9mm stuff and "stock rod bolts break" was disproven in 1997 and the part sellers brought it back to sell you things you don't need because they make a good profit off of the parts. Welcome to most of the aftermarket industry. I can direct you to 1001 ECHC guys who built stock OEM part B20/VTECs using 84.xmm B20 pistons (flycut the intake pockets to 33mm, of course) on stock LS rods with stock rod bolts that revved to 8400+ rpms and racked up as much as 100K miles with zero problems before i lost track of the owner, or the motor was sold and iIlost track of it.
Hell even shifting at the LS 7,000rpms I bet the Vtec head and GSR cams would still make alot more power over the LS head and cams. Maybe I could keep it safe and shift around 7,500rpms until I get the new shortblock build.
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Is all i can say is...honda tested the ls @ a higher rpm than 7,000...7,500...more than likely a little higher than 8,000 rpm. Thats why most motors ecu's have a lil higher rev limit, than the visual redline we see. The standard is set once the motor is tested and it is decided for semi-reliablility where the "redline" is. If you reved it to 8k on a decent ls block, YOU WOULD BE FINE...I would shift it to 7500 all day cus a lg majority of ls owners will shift to the 7200 rev limit all day...in moderation is fine. 

do you guys not build your motors so you can beat the **** out of them? I dont beat the **** out of my turbo gsr all the time, I have the ability to drive normal like anyone else, but I dont wanna worry that my car is going to grenade when I do wanna let loose from time to time.
Whats the point of doing this conversion if youre doing pulls and worrying about whether or not the bottom end is going to let go on you?
but you had two of your bros say that its ok to go all the way to 8k yo
whats the point of "in moderation"
do you guys not build your motors so you can beat the **** out of them? I dont beat the **** out of my turbo gsr all the time, I have the ability to drive normal like anyone else, but I dont wanna worry that my car is going to grenade when I do wanna let loose from time to time.
Whats the point of doing this conversion if youre doing pulls and worrying about whether or not the bottom end is going to let go on you?
whats the point of "in moderation"
do you guys not build your motors so you can beat the **** out of them? I dont beat the **** out of my turbo gsr all the time, I have the ability to drive normal like anyone else, but I dont wanna worry that my car is going to grenade when I do wanna let loose from time to time.
Whats the point of doing this conversion if youre doing pulls and worrying about whether or not the bottom end is going to let go on you?
If youre going to be disassembling the bottom end and inspecting everything (like you say he is) why not spend the $32 on rod bolts and call it a day?
Is all i can say is...honda tested the ls @ a higher rpm than 7,000...7,500...more than likely a little higher than 8,000 rpm. Thats why most motors ecu's have a lil higher rev limit, than the visual redline we see. The standard is set once the motor is tested and it is decided for semi-reliablility where the "redline" is. If you reved it to 8k on a decent ls block, YOU WOULD BE FINE...I would shift it to 7500 all day cus a lg majority of ls owners will shift to the 7200 rev limit all day...in moderation is fine. 

At least your doing your research unlike that other guys thread about wondering why hes getting a CEL at 5psi on stock everything lol.
Once you crack open that stock block, there's no turning back is all I have to say
Once you crack open that stock block, there's no turning back is all I have to say
I do see what your saying...it is nice having people who do look after the best interest of the builder. Might as effing well get the rod bolts.
Another noob post lol...oil pan has to come off to tap anyways. I could do rod bolts then right? My common sense meter says yes.
I might pm you about tuning advice







