Seeing as my rear struts have about 3 inches of extra travel, would there be any ill effects of reducing the piston length? In my head it would benefit me more than anything, I have a 1.5 inch drop and if I cut off that much and re-thread it would be less harsh on the strut because it's working in it's designed range.

 

So Skunk 2 reduced length struts are a stupid idea? I have OEM replacement struts, reducing the piston length would reduce it from bottoming out and would be more centered, instead of being almost bottomed out and large amount of rebound travel that will never be used.

 

Dude just get the extended top hats, Skunk 2 use's a shorted body to drop the stance, cutting the top of the OE shock and re-threading the shaft is stupid

 

Well it's free for me to do it myself and I plan on replacing them anyways.

 

I don't see how you'd be able to rethread the piston shaft. Using a die is one thing, gripping the shaft is another...

Just get extended top hats and that would more effectively accomplish what you want.

 

Simple, cut a slit in the top and use a flat head screw driver to hold the piston steady.

 

Re-tapping something and milling a top hat are two completely different things, though it would reasonably easy if I had a lathe. I'm looking for a cheap (free) and easy way to prolong my OE shocks until I can afford better ones. It's not rocket science.

So the question is - Will reducing the piston length benefit me?
Answer - Top hats, takes up extra travel by extending the mount point, free and simple solution? Cut and re-tap the piston, Ill post pictures.

 

yeah good luck with that.

 

And don't forget about the tapered shoulder for the bumpstop plate that you WILL have to turn down on a lathe.

Your idea just isn't feasible.

 

Oh I didn't know that, I must have day dreamed about doing it. You dont need a lathe, just steady hands, caliper, grinder, and some files.

The Problem


The Solution


The Difference


Finished


Installed


Disclaimer, I do not recommend anyone do this. This is simply just a "picture guide". Any modification to essential parts of your vehicle could cause failure of the part and result in damage and or death. If you do decide to go against the disclaimer then make sure you use proper safety equipment during modification and test on a closed off road for your and others safety.

Side note - Everything works fine, it actually helped reduce the amount bounce of the suspension, I do not fear whip lash from speed bumps anymore. Also the thread size to re-tap is 10mm x 1.25.

 

****, i didnt know you were trying to polish a turd. way to go...

 

Polish a turd or make daily driving easier on a budget? Not everyone has money to dump all at once, and there were no reviews for DA Integras with the Eiback prokit installed, and with the small drop (1.5") and being only a little stiffer (so they claim) I thought I would have been fine on the OE struts until I could afford new ones. And no I didn't buy the springs just to be cool to have a lowered car, the OEM springs were sagging especially the front driver side.

 

waste of time/money. The car will not drive any different.

 

Time I have, money is negligible, about $0.50 of electricity? The handling is the same as unmodified struts yes, which is very nice on Eibach Pro-Kit springs I may add.
There was only two goals with this, to reduce the bounce and hopefully extend the life of the struts. Bounce is considerably reduced, only time will tell if the shocks will hold out.

 

You did this with a grinder and files? This mod is EPIC! Charlie Sheen style!

 

Except I wasn't drunk while doing it, sorry. Sure it's back yard/red neck/ghetto/what ever you want to call it, but I took my time and made sure all the measurements were right. Ill stand by it night and day, it has helped the ride quality greatly.