VTEC not engaging(yes i've read other threads already)
okay so here's the deal, i have a 98 b18c1 in my 96 civic hatch.. yes i know the 96 is obd1, and it was wired up, but vtec is not engaging...i'm throwing codes for charcoal/vapor canister and the rear o2 sensor.. could it be possible that the vapor canister(obd1 in the 96) needs to be changed to obd2 canister? or is that just for better mileage/no smell of vap...I also have a little leak, it's very minor, checked for sure not from my headgasket somewhere near the dizzy or it IS The dizzy..i just wanna hear your guys opinion, before i fix each little thing n waste money on things that won't actually fix the vtec not engaging problem. THANKS HT~!
96-00 are obd2. vtec fluid....that was a joke. But the fluid you can check is oil. If the level us low to a certain point, vtec wont engage.
so do you guys know for sure it's not the rear o2 & Vapor canister? if not that it could potentially be my thermostat, but my friend said if my thermo was fried my check engine would tell me bc..my car takes about 15-20 mins for it to get to show normal on the cluster and sometimes it's very close to cold even after i drive my car and run it to 6-7k rpm and i'm not running a cai if that has any effect..idk if it's getting to the point of not working and if that could effect it..i spend about 15-25 bucks for gas a week and i drive around 250-300 miles/week..so i think i'm okay with gas mileage..i don't wanna pick up a 50$ sensor for the evap for my obd2 canister i picked up if that won't help the vtec =/
Last edited by phoxking; Mar 5, 2011 at 11:11 PM. Reason: grammar
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hmm vtec solenoid? wiring to the vtec solenoid? the ecu isnt wired right hmm maybe. im not sure if coolant temp matters but check see if its working, i know when my tegs cold it wont go into vtec but i think thats oil pressure or temp that prevents it im not to sure. 02 doesnt give a **** if you hit vtec or not that sensor is ****ing useless anyway, just sees if your cat is performing correctly, ****ing useless. check the things that make vtec engage first
so do you guys know for sure it's not the rear o2 & Vapor canister? if not that it could potentially be my thermostat, but my friend said if my thermo was fried my check engine would tell me bc..my car takes about 15-20 mins for it to get to show normal on the cluster and sometimes it's very close to cold even after i drive my car and run it to 6-7k rpm and i'm not running a cai if that has any effect..idk if it's getting to the point of not working and if that could effect it..i spend about 15-25 bucks for gas a week and i drive around 250-300 miles/week..so i think i'm okay with gas mileage..i don't wanna pick up a 50$ sensor for the evap for my obd2 canister i picked up if that won't help the vtec =/
The check engine light will not illuminate when the thermo goes.
Practically everyone with an Integra over 10 years old would have experienced a failed thermostat, including me. I had no VTEC when the thermo failed.
For VTEC to happen, a few parameters must be met, including engine at correct operating temperature. So if the engine is too cool, all the time, no VTEC.
The correct operating temperature will be around 45-48% on the temperature gauge. Once warmed up, it will no fluctuate as you drive, the thermostat is there to control it. If the temp gauge goes up and down as you are driving, the thermostat is likely to be busted.
Replace it and have a go again. the thermostat is a cheap part.
I'll bet that it IS a thermostat problem. They usually stick open when they fail. Better a cold engine than an overheated one.
The check engine light will not illuminate when the thermo goes.
Practically everyone with an Integra over 10 years old would have experienced a failed thermostat, including me. I had no VTEC when the thermo failed.
For VTEC to happen, a few parameters must be met, including engine at correct operating temperature. So if the engine is too cool, all the time, no VTEC.
The correct operating temperature will be around 45-48% on the temperature gauge. Once warmed up, it will no fluctuate as you drive, the thermostat is there to control it. If the temp gauge goes up and down as you are driving, the thermostat is likely to be busted.
Replace it and have a go again. the thermostat is a cheap part.
The check engine light will not illuminate when the thermo goes.
Practically everyone with an Integra over 10 years old would have experienced a failed thermostat, including me. I had no VTEC when the thermo failed.
For VTEC to happen, a few parameters must be met, including engine at correct operating temperature. So if the engine is too cool, all the time, no VTEC.
The correct operating temperature will be around 45-48% on the temperature gauge. Once warmed up, it will no fluctuate as you drive, the thermostat is there to control it. If the temp gauge goes up and down as you are driving, the thermostat is likely to be busted.
Replace it and have a go again. the thermostat is a cheap part.
I'm having a similar problem with my b18c1... its in a 97 hatch, type R ECU. I already checked my vtec fluid LOL!.. thats good to go. I've only had the car for a couple weeks now (wisconsin winter) and have noticed it doesn't change over all the time (I don't give 'er hell until the car has been running a while so it should be warm). the car has an SI gauge cluster which the oil temp gauge seems to be faulty or not working so i'm not exactly sure on temp all the time. i was always told oil pressure is what matters for the vtec change over, not temp... possibly vtec solenoid? ECU problem?
I'm having a similar problem with my b18c1... its in a 97 hatch, type R ECU. I already checked my vtec fluid LOL!.. thats good to go. I've only had the car for a couple weeks now (wisconsin winter) and have noticed it doesn't change over all the time (I don't give 'er hell until the car has been running a while so it should be warm). the car has an SI gauge cluster which the oil temp gauge seems to be faulty or not working so i'm not exactly sure on temp all the time. i was always told oil pressure is what matters for the vtec change over, not temp... possibly vtec solenoid? ECU problem?
Last edited by phoxking; Mar 6, 2011 at 10:22 PM. Reason: grammatic error
1,why is this in the integra forum?
2. How do you know for sure the V-tec isn't working? Have you jumped the solenoid?
3. You're trowing codes,shouldn't you start on them first before wanting the V-tec to engage?
4.You said you've searched,but you said you know the 96 is OBD1?
92 to 95 are OBD1,over 95 are OBD2 bro,so if you looked,you would of known this.
2. How do you know for sure the V-tec isn't working? Have you jumped the solenoid?
3. You're trowing codes,shouldn't you start on them first before wanting the V-tec to engage?
4.You said you've searched,but you said you know the 96 is OBD1?
92 to 95 are OBD1,over 95 are OBD2 bro,so if you looked,you would of known this.
Last edited by 91_LS; Mar 6, 2011 at 07:34 PM.
1,why is this in the integra forum?
2. How do you know for sure the V-tec isn't working? Have you jumped the solenoid?
3. You're trowing codes,shouldn't you start on them first before wanting the V-tec to engage?
4.You said you've searched,but you said you know the 96 is OBD1?
92 to 95 are OBD1,over 95 are OBD2 bro,so if you looked,you would of known this.
2. How do you know for sure the V-tec isn't working? Have you jumped the solenoid?
3. You're trowing codes,shouldn't you start on them first before wanting the V-tec to engage?
4.You said you've searched,but you said you know the 96 is OBD1?
92 to 95 are OBD1,over 95 are OBD2 bro,so if you looked,you would of known this.
my bad...and i'll double check because i just checked literally a few days ago my friends 97 and it was obd1..but research more i guess. and the codes i'm throwing are o2 bung and charcoal canister, those aren't really on my prior to fix besides the canister which i'm almost finished, just need the sensor o2 obviously is just for emissions..
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