Question about lubing poly bushings, and spherical bushing endlinks
I have energy suspension poly sway bar bushings, that really need to be lubed.
I can't seem to find any stores that carry the formula 5 prelube that ES uses.
So my question is there anything else that I can use that can be bought at a store? I would really rather not have to order anything.
My dad found something called, Magic lube which is teflon based, just as the formula 5 is. Would this work?
Also, What are you guys useing for your endlinks? I have blox sphericals.
I have heard some say they used caliper grease, but I really have no clue what would be good or bad..
They have been rather loud lately, and the last couple times I have lubed them it only lasted for a week or two at best. I used poly graph lube the last time.
Thank you.
I can't seem to find any stores that carry the formula 5 prelube that ES uses.
So my question is there anything else that I can use that can be bought at a store? I would really rather not have to order anything.
My dad found something called, Magic lube which is teflon based, just as the formula 5 is. Would this work?
Also, What are you guys useing for your endlinks? I have blox sphericals.
I have heard some say they used caliper grease, but I really have no clue what would be good or bad..
They have been rather loud lately, and the last couple times I have lubed them it only lasted for a week or two at best. I used poly graph lube the last time.
Thank you.
Order the stuff from ES. Its the best thing going. Some of the other lubes and greases out there will break down the poly. Your bar needs to be able to move in the bushings too or you'll tear them up with a quickness.
You can get rid of the squeeking by wrapping teflon tape around the swaybar before putting the bushing on. It won't get washed away. I did that on my car 7 years ago and they are still quiet as can be. You only have to go around 2 to 3 times.
The nice weather kind of got me motivated to work on my car, and I realised I haven't touched the bushings sence I put them in. Coming up on a year.
The noise from the endlinks really freaking drives me nuts. It sounds like something is loose, but everything is torqued to factory spec.
I am still interested in opinons, and also what to use on the endlinks. I'll try to order the ES stuff on monday.
Thank you.
Get used to the endlinks, its the nature of the beast. They are rod ends and have zero compliance. Not to mention that all the premade ones are made with shitty chinese rod ends. You might have slightly better luck if you built your own with some good ones from Aurora (All the companies that sell the kits do is thread together two pairs of male and female ones and put them in a box), but they are always going to be a bit noisy.
I knew they were going to make some noise but not this much. lol
Suprising when I greesed them, they were quite. Only on really bumpy roads you could here them.
I have considerd building my own. My dad swears it is the only way to go..
I was looking at the F7, and ASR, wonder if those are any better.
I also noticed the ES lube says it will work well for metal to metal contact. I wonder if that would well for the endlinks as well?
Suprising when I greesed them, they were quite. Only on really bumpy roads you could here them.
I have considerd building my own. My dad swears it is the only way to go..
I was looking at the F7, and ASR, wonder if those are any better.
I also noticed the ES lube says it will work well for metal to metal contact. I wonder if that would well for the endlinks as well?
One of the great things about the ES grease is that it last seemingly forever. I used to work with a guy that had put poly bushings on his old lifted yota and you could still see the grease after at least 5-6 years.
The rub: Rod ends should not be lubed. The grease attracts contaminants which fouls the bearings and leads to failure. Higher quality aerospace grades can be purchased with ptfe liners that cushion slightly and won't bind (Thats the major difference from the cheap chinese ones really).
Iirc F7 was selling links made from Aurora rod ends, but I don't see them on the website. CALL them and find out what the deal is. Let us know what they say too.
If you should decide to "build" your own: http://www.aurorabearing.com/
And by "build" I mean that seriously, you don't even need any tools to put them together until you put them on the car. Good luck.
The rub: Rod ends should not be lubed. The grease attracts contaminants which fouls the bearings and leads to failure. Higher quality aerospace grades can be purchased with ptfe liners that cushion slightly and won't bind (Thats the major difference from the cheap chinese ones really).
Iirc F7 was selling links made from Aurora rod ends, but I don't see them on the website. CALL them and find out what the deal is. Let us know what they say too.
If you should decide to "build" your own: http://www.aurorabearing.com/
And by "build" I mean that seriously, you don't even need any tools to put them together until you put them on the car. Good luck.
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This type of thing? They kind of look like my blox endlinks I have now.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Aur....c0.m270.l1313
I'll call F7 in the morning, and also Aurora. I did find F7 endlinks on JHP for 49. But there is always the chance they just don't update the site and don't have any.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=Aur....c0.m270.l1313
I'll call F7 in the morning, and also Aurora. I did find F7 endlinks on JHP for 49. But there is always the chance they just don't update the site and don't have any.
Just got this from F7.
We don't list them because we don't really "make" them. They are standard off-the shelf components for our endlink kits. Because of company policy I cannot reveal where we get the parts from and I cannot confirm nor deny that they come from Aurora
-- and we do get them from multiple sources.
Our endlinks use teflon-lined bearing joints so they should be a little quieter but they do wear down over time and may become a little noisier. Still, we recommend keeping them oiled (WD40 works nicely) to protect them from the elements.
-A
Originally Posted by Function7
We don't list them because we don't really "make" them. They are standard off-the shelf components for our endlink kits. Because of company policy I cannot reveal where we get the parts from and I cannot confirm nor deny that they come from Aurora
-- and we do get them from multiple sources.Our endlinks use teflon-lined bearing joints so they should be a little quieter but they do wear down over time and may become a little noisier. Still, we recommend keeping them oiled (WD40 works nicely) to protect them from the elements.
-A
Joined: Jan 2002
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Your end link heim joints are likely shot, therefore making noise.
As for sway bar bushings, I'm using the greasable ES bushings, and I just lube them up every now and then with plain ol' black grease in a grease gun. I have to use a right angle fitting on my gun to be able to get it on the passenger side fitting near the muffler.
I'll probably switch them out for OEM ITR sway bar bushings after awhile, though. I really don't think there is any noticeable benefit (if any) from using poly sway bar bushings. The OEM rubber pieces should suffice just fine.
As for sway bar bushings, I'm using the greasable ES bushings, and I just lube them up every now and then with plain ol' black grease in a grease gun. I have to use a right angle fitting on my gun to be able to get it on the passenger side fitting near the muffler.
I'll probably switch them out for OEM ITR sway bar bushings after awhile, though. I really don't think there is any noticeable benefit (if any) from using poly sway bar bushings. The OEM rubber pieces should suffice just fine.
Your end link heim joints are likely shot, therefore making noise.
As for sway bar bushings, I'm using the greasable ES bushings, and I just lube them up every now and then with plain ol' black grease in a grease gun. I have to use a right angle fitting on my gun to be able to get it on the passenger side fitting near the muffler.
I'll probably switch them out for OEM ITR sway bar bushings after awhile, though. I really don't think there is any noticeable benefit (if any) from using poly sway bar bushings. The OEM rubber pieces should suffice just fine.
As for sway bar bushings, I'm using the greasable ES bushings, and I just lube them up every now and then with plain ol' black grease in a grease gun. I have to use a right angle fitting on my gun to be able to get it on the passenger side fitting near the muffler.
I'll probably switch them out for OEM ITR sway bar bushings after awhile, though. I really don't think there is any noticeable benefit (if any) from using poly sway bar bushings. The OEM rubber pieces should suffice just fine.
I should have bought F7 from the start.

I thought I felt a little difference with mine. My OEM bushings were history, the holes were bigger than the sway bar. That and the ES bushings were cheeper than OEM.
Yea, that is what I am think also.
Thank you for the Help!
Hopefully the ES lube will be here in a day or to.
I do plan on getting F7 endlinks front and rear as soon as I can.
I have ES bushings throughout the suspension lubed with Permatex Anti-seize #80071 instead of the ES grease. Recommended by one of the major sellers and by a local honda race guy who has done it for years. Prior to that I had squeeks from the poly bushings on the swaybar and rear Skunk2 upper control arms. I have used it this way for 2 years without difficulty, yet. It is very messy and hard to clean up. I was told that with age and cold, that ES lube is thick and waxy and pushes out ot the way. A heavy spray of silicone spray lube also to stop squeeks after the fact. Enough that it drips and soaks into the bushing. Protect for overspray and drips.
i use this stuff for my poly lube
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/.../polyeaze.html
it has held up great so far after about 8 months or so. only time i ever heard a squeak was when the temp outside was 11 degrees. its some super thick **** without a doubt and i can still see it on my UCA bushings. The tub is enormus too it will more than likely last you your entire life.
http://www.performanceunlimited.com/.../polyeaze.html
it has held up great so far after about 8 months or so. only time i ever heard a squeak was when the temp outside was 11 degrees. its some super thick **** without a doubt and i can still see it on my UCA bushings. The tub is enormus too it will more than likely last you your entire life.
Yea, well the lube was 2.99, shippping 4.88. I should have bought the bigger tub but this should do for now.
What I am a little mad about is It was 2-3 day shipping. The lube was sent to usps on tuesday, and has still yet to ship.
This is why I hate ordering things.
Thank you for the help!
What I am a little mad about is It was 2-3 day shipping. The lube was sent to usps on tuesday, and has still yet to ship.
This is why I hate ordering things.Thank you for the help!
What do you guys think about trying to put a little of the ES lube on the endlinks?
I know you aren't supposed to lube them, but what would it hurt?
It said you could use it for metal to metal.....
I know you aren't supposed to lube them, but what would it hurt?
It said you could use it for metal to metal.....
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