How difficult would it be to do a steering rack and the tierods attached to it? Got a 1994 EG EX w/ power steering. Wanted to keep the power steering since, suprisingly the manual rack is more expensive??? Checked my haynes shop manual and it looks relativly easy but wanted to check and see if anyone had any easier way or some suggestions.

 

Let me tell you, it's a PITA with the engine in the car. It's doable, just be prepared to spend a few hours doing it, and cussing a few (or many) times

 

Do you mean just unbolting it, or are you talking about trying to let it clear everything to drop it down? I kinda figured it would be tight getting it down but obviously there is a way to do it. If I had my maunual with me I would post it up exactly word for word. Because the way it goes into detail makes it sound easy. So with a car like mine with 190xxx miles on it. I doubt the rack has ever been changed, so I can imagine those bolts are going to be nice and rusted/seized up. So WD-40 and some liquid wrench are my friends in this instance huh?

 

It might be a bit easier on your car since I believe my GS-R has an additional tube brace that yours doesn't have on the subframe, and those bolts are a PITA to get to.

Also you have to remove the outer tie rods to get the rack to clear as you remove it.

 

Listen to patrick, it is a pain in the ***.
My friend and I cussed a lot more than a few times. Lol

Let's just say, 90° day, and in the drive way swapping subframes sucks.

Having some friends, and some beer will help a little. And something to lay on, we used yoga mats, it helped soooo much.

Good luck

 

You don't have to remove the tie rods or drop the subframe. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, unbolt the yoke and drop the rack off its mounts. Push the rack toward the passenger side of the car and you can drop the driver's side of the rack out of the subframe and sneak it out. That's the proper way to do it.

Its still a pita in a driveway though, mostly because there's just no neat way to get everything drained out before you work on it. Also, you need some flare wrenches to get the lines off.

 

My shop manual says you need to seperate the left tierod from the gear. But i guess we will see how much of a PITA it will be. It also says I need to drop the cat out to get clearance to drop the gear. Is that true? I need to get it done or I wont pass state inspection. I hate Virginia and there laws

 

Yeah you really should pull the cat, but that shouldn't be a big deal unless its real cruddy. It would give you a bit of room if you pulled the tie rod, but thats not the way i was shown and I never had any problems leving it on.

 

ok ill make sure I do that! Anybody ever had a grinding noise coming from the front left under moderate braking at 25mph or lower and after doing axles and LCA bushings?