Ok, ive got about 5 months into this build, countless dollars. I have ordered and installed everything I could think of, just looking for someone to re-check my list and say "Hey Dumb-***, you forgot _______!!!"

Ive read through the 3 or 4 large nitrous threads on here several times, and i can't think of anything else i need.

So far, this is how the list stacks up:

-Micro-Polished B18C1 crank
-Eagle H-Beam Rods
-Supertech Pistons, comp ratio calculated at 11.2:1
-Block Guard (skimpy, i know) drilled for coolant channels
-ACL race bearings
-Direct Port nitrous kit
-Ported head
-Window Switch
-Fuel Pressure Saftey Switch
-Walbro 255 Inline
-Nitrous Press. Gauge
-Bottle Heater
-ECU tuned at 3* ign. retard across the board
-Apexi V-AFC for small adjustments
-NGK BKR7E-11 plugs
-Fidanza 6-puck sprung clutch
-ACT pressure plate
-Stock B16 trans
-Sticky street tires
-Intake, 4-2-1 header, 2.5" exhaust
-FPR

My main question is: Do you think this setup will be ok at a 230 shot?

I calculated that to 200 HP at the wheels. Will this setup hold that kind of shot? [FORGOT- RUNNING 110 OCTANE]

If so, what times do you think itll run in a 2400lb Del Sol?

Thanks, these are the only pics i have:

 

i dont know bout a 230 shot on stock sleeves and dnt cheap out get hondata or neptune rtp n drop that block gaurd

 

Yea, i have crome, running 110 octane fuel i forgot to add.

 

conclusion of the above, with the amount of knowledge you currently have and setup as is it's oke to spray a 75 shot. maybe after some time you can try out a 100shot

 

Stock sleeves seem to split at about 175 hp worth of gas. A 200 seems to be the 1 hitter quitter. More timing retard is neccessary, I do 2* for every 50hp. Also I didnt see a WOT switch listed.

 

you're quite good in overgeneralizing

b16 stock sleeve at stockish cr with 175 shot is not the same as a 13:1 cr lsvtec on a 175 shot

i'm going to run 200shot all season on stock sleeves, cubish has run quite a while on a 200shot in his street car stock sleeves running 10.4@13xmph

it's all in the tune/setup, this guy + his setup + 200shot = def. a 1 hitter quitter tough

 

OK, thanks Wolve for posting up your reply.

1. You said my fuel lines were too long? I read they were supposed to all be equal length. I can shorten them, easy.

2. Window switch currently set to 4,500 rpm activation, cutoff at 8,300 (8,500 rev limit)

3. Would you recommend running another Walbro intank also? They're cheap, easy to install, ill pick one up.

4. Ok im in the dark about the spark-plug thing. I read and read on this and the bkr7's were what everyone said was the **** on nitrous.

5. Yes, i forgot to post also, on top of the tune for 3* retard, im gonna pull about 5-6* out of the initial timing.

Thanks for the replies.

edit- yea im running WOT switch.

 

no thnx
1. ideal situation on that style direct port is solenoid mounted on the fogger, so 4 solenoids for most that's a little to extreme, so just shorten them as much as you can while keeping them equal. if you have the change have the lines as small ID as possible (no smaller then you jet tough ). reason for all this is, fuel is slow at 45ish psi, nitrous is a lot faster at 900-1000psi

2. 230hp shot at 4500rpm is like 350+whp at 4500rpm is like 408+wtq. now go do an extensive search on how much tq stock sleeves can run reliable. you'll find anything a much much lower number so to avoid having a 1hitter quitter, reduce the shot or redesign the setup

3. once you start upping the shot above 100whp get a intank one

4. in my experience on spray and similair cr and 1.8:
- 7's are good up to 260ish whp
- 8's are good up to 350ish whp
- 9's for beyond that

depends alot on the setup tough, for example, restrictive exhaust makes for high temps found that out when i was pushing a 321whp trough a stock cast 4-2-1 b18 mani

5. ah oke, remember: on a fixed shot timing needs to be progressive but on a progressive shot timing can be fixed

 

Damn wolve, youre a cool dude.

I just got done installing the OTHER jets i got with the kit, good for a 160 shot.

I read about cube and harv running 400 shots on stock sleeves, B20's at that. I figured, hell, im doing half that, i should be in the green.

will-do on the 9's.

Sooo.... do you think this car has a shot at 11's with said 160 shot?

 

retard 10 degrees for the initial hit and start out putting the window switch at 6000rpm wich should yield sub 250ish wtq. gradually give back some timing as you reach the limiter (about 6-7degrees). then start tuning timing by the plugs. if everything checks out, plugs are mint and timing is on par, lower the window switch. would'nt go much lower then 5000 for activation tough, as your near 300wtq on stock sleeves by then and you don't fall back lower then 5000rpm when shifting to 2nd.

have fun and let us now how it goes!

11's are surely in order on slicks!!! if it's a low or high one depends on weight/suspension/driver

 

If you're going to spray your car, Wolve and ghostofnyc as well as cubish are the 3 guys to listen to.

I know a very good bit about nitrous but they always seem to amaze me on some answers..

A good rule of thumb is, for every 50 shot you retarded your timing 2 degrees..other then that, wolve has covered everything i would have said, so no use in repeating.

 

That rule of thumb is old as ****...let's see if there is any truth to it

You seem knowledgable when it comes to tuning.
Answer me this: what dictates your timing throughout the powerband?

1. Your power curve
2. Your torque curve

 

torque.

and i re edited that thing.. to say shot, not 50 degrees.. but of course i think you know what i ment.
I dont give away all my tuning serects, and i'd rather see someone be safe doing a turbo or nitrous setup rather then trying to push the limits without understanding.. it goes without saying usually in the same turbo situation..

"good " tuners can adjust the timing retarded per psi.. i usually start around .75 or so.. where as its a good rule to start out @ 1 degree retard per psi.. just depends on the app also as well..

but non the less it is old as ****.. ;P

 

OK, so im gonna pull -10 degrees out at 5000 rpm, then gradually fade it back in to about -6 at rev limit, correct? This means leaving my initial timing alone, right?

Or should i pull a little out of the distrib too?

I know this is just an initial tune, but id like my initial tune to not blow my motor.

Thanks a lot, guys.

 

You're going to need to learn how to read your plugs for nitrous.. they play a huge role in how your motor is taking the nitrous.. either I or wolve can correctly explain how to read your plugs.

 

think i got it down, tune the timing for the color change on the ground strap to land in the apex of the bend of the strap, try to get the electrode insulator very light brown, bright white means too lean, dark brown too rich, speckled means detonating. The other stuff like electrode blackening and the tip of the thread metal means too rich at idle, which im not too worried about.

 

if you redo the hard lines might as well get a equal flow distribution block so the nitrous hits evenly between all cylinders. I melted two valves on a 125 shot because one cylinder went lean had the same t style distribution block. Don't do what I did lol.

 

might want to drill and tap up higher on the intake manifold for where the nozzles go. So you have better atomization before it enters the engine

 

do you have a steel fishnet screen under the car to catch the pieces when your engine flys apart?

just kidding

looks like a fun build

 

if torque dictates timing why do people use a rule of thumb based on hp?

can someone sketch me a typical torque curve of a fixed shot nitrous engine?

p.s. never saw the 50degree thing neither do i give away tuning secrets, but as you do i want people to spray and have fun without contributing to the false rumors that roam about it

 

that's what i'm trying to set you up with and not being to far off in the process

your map on the chip is 3 degr retarded you said, so you'll need an additional 7 deg. at 6000RPM (start out at 6000rpm! much easyier for the engine! lower it if everything checks out), then feed a degree per 500rpms back in to 3degr retard (on top of the 3 in your chip, so 6 total) at 8300rpm.

while you have the intake of the engine, test spray N2O on a bench to check for somewhat of a equal flow

right on

coupled to a wideband, you can read overall afr, on the plugs you can read afr per cilinder. two cilinders will probably run leaner because of uneven distribution, make sure you tune towards those lean cil´s. if you got those perfect afr-timing, the other 2 will be conservative

aim for afr's in the high 10's

 

I hate when customers come to me, and talk down about nitrous. Uninformed really upsets me... i'll take a stab in the dark here and the person who actually came up with the for every 50 shot of nitrous you retarded 2 degrees, i believe its because of the fact Nitrous burns faster, so it requires less timing...

 

represantives of nitrous express use this stupid rule to

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAuAu...layer_embedded

nitrous does'nt burn just kidding....
the higher oxygen content makes for a hotter burn tough
that's why you don't want to try and run a ngk 7 on a 350-450whp nitrous setups while it's perfect for a turbo- setup

 

OK im running her tonight, tuned my chip for the timing changes, Wish Me Luck!

 

Let us know how it went, how did the plugs look at first pull?