Hello HT,

To make it short...Ive installed my Koni yellows/GCs (specific for each other) on my DA. They were used supposedly off a CRX/EF.

Heres the order in how we installed the setup.

Fronts:
fork
shock body
GC sleeve mounted on Koni circlip or ring(then spring placed on sleeve)
white plastic washer the top of the shock body
1inch bumpstop
metal washer
OEM DA top mount with its OEM rubber insulator
metal dish washer (faced up) placed on top of Top mount's bushing
2 Koni supplied jam nuts

Rears:
Same exact setup..of course with no forks.

The problem I'm getting is that when I'm driving, as the shock rod goes up and down, the DISH WASHER hits the JAM NUTS. When the car is parked, you can spin and move up and down the dish washer. This doesn't sound good at all. There has to be something missing with my installation.

When your installing the top mounts to the shock rod...isnt it supposed to "lock" onto the threads so it doesn't freely move?
**I've also noticed that in my top mounts...there's no metal cylinders like I've seen online. Mine are just hollow..no cylinders..Is that a problem?

Thanks in advance, I kindly appreaciate it.


Picture:
Theres a gap between the dish washer and the bottom jam nut. When driving that distance in between will grow and compress...causing the LOUD banging and weird sounds.


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

hmm.. how low are you? there are multiple c-clip points right?... you shouldn't really have that much shock out the top... used EF forks? (or are DA's also smaller diameter, I don't remember)... could trim the bushing sleeve, but are the nuts bottomed on the thread?

 

I'm about 2 finger gaps all around. And yes there are multiple c-clips on the shock. I believe all 4 are set on the middle clips. I used my stock DA forks, fit perfectly.

And yes the jam nuts are pretty much on the bottom of the threads. Now...that WILL cause the rod to be kept higher up??

 

Yes, that would be a problem, and would explain the described symptoms.

 

Koni shocks come with a specific metal sleeve to go in the stock upper mount bushings, as the stock metal sleeve won't fit over the Koni shock piston.

See this diagram:


#14 is the metal sleeve that is replaced by the Koni metal sleeve.

Make sure that sleeve is correctly inserted through BOTH #7 bushings and that both are installed correctly in the top hat. The bushings should have their concave sides facing each other like this: (()) Then the #6 dished washer facing up, and of course the jam nuts which replace the #16 top nut.

Also be sure the correct Koni-supplied washer is in place to replace the #12 bumpstop plate.

Take a look at the Koni/GC thread in my sig. I don't mention the assembly of the top mount directly, but you can see in several pics the metal sleeve inside both mount bushings inside the top mount.

 

well TunerN00b sort of beat me to it. If you don't have those metal sleeves you might have to order some from Koni North America.

 

this is the more important issue.

basically, you totally ****ed up the installation. redo it over. or give it over to someone who know what theyre doing.

 

Wow thank you all for the well informed replies!! I guess I'm on a mission to find those sleeves.

As I looked at that diagram..wow I think my setup is way off too...

#7 IS my bumpstop and a metal washer is on top of that- then top hat.

So it's...
shock>white washer>bottom #7 bushing>metal washer>top hat>#7 bushing>dish>jam nuts

uh oh...lol

 

yup, that'll do it... get the correct bump stop on there and the bushings in the right place with the metal sleeve inside and you'll be good to go.

 

shock>white washer>bottom #7 bushing>metal washer>top hat>#7 bushing>dish>jam nuts

no its

shock>white washer>METAL WAHER>THEN bottom #7 bushing>top hat>#7 bushing>dish>jam nuts

 

#12 goes under bottom #7

 

I think OP knows that, he was just listing how he originally installed it. He was using one of the #7 top hat bushings as a bumpstop (or installed it where the bumpstop should be).