i was just wondering about not necessarily the performance but rather the handling and feel of the car after replacing my current d16a with a b16a or b18c.

 

Feels good

 

got any pix of your setup? what year did you use?

 

did you have any trouble with the drivetrain/gearbox or did you have to replace these...

 

Unfortunatley I don't have any pics, but the motor is a 95 obd1 gsr engine that had 80k on it.

As far as the drivetrain gearbox question, yes you have to change everything. I have a 93 ls tranny, axles, and intermediate shaft. I chose the ls tranny, because I want to boost it down the line. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask. Or ask dlric how it is, he driven in my rex before.

 

B18c1 in my 88 crx
handling feels fine - peformance is awesome..

 

is there a conversion kit so to use the hydro trannies in the ef's? putting in swap and need the kit or need cable....

 

go with a b16a gen1 i did a b18c into one of my friends car and what i bitch it was... I had to rewire the entire engine to ecu...

b16a easier to wire up and install

doug

 

It's not that hard of a swap. If you had to rewire all that then you did something wrong. If you get a harness conversion you only have to run 7 wires. Almost anything you do on a 14 year old car is going to be a bitch, just because of the cars age, that doesn't mean it's hard.

 

I believe place racing makes a kit to adapt the hydro tranny to the ef.

 

i put a 95 b18c1 into 91civicsi's hatch and it wasent that bad. his wiring is obd0 with a Zdyne one wire conversion (pm6 ecu), 90 ls dist. and stock d16 injectors...car run good.

i just put a b20vtec into my crx and mechanically it is the same. i used obd1 electronics on mine though with 93 ls dist, chipped p28 ecu, and obd1 gsr injectors. it wasent all that bad either. the biggest headache about my swap was having to piece everything together.


[Modified by Jeff C, 1:24 PM 9/30/2002]

 

No.

 

Sacrificing power and torque for easier wiring?? Bah!

If you have the money, go with the B18C

 

Exactly. It isn't anymore of a wiring hassle if you have the knowledge to do the work. Setting it up for OBD1 might be a little harder but it's definitely worth it.

 

I put a B18c into my '91 CRX Si with relative ease. I think the key is getting the right components, to start with. I had mine shipped with B16A injectors, distributor, PR3 ECU, and tranny with LSD. I bought the Hasport sub harness, wire removal tool (no cut and splice on the ECU plugs), and Billet mounts. Honestly, I had a few surprises. I did not know that I would have to get a header, intake, and catalytic converter. They were on my list, but I was planning to do them over the next year, for budgetary reasons. I had to buy a header for the engine ('94 JDM GSR), a cat that I was told was from a '90 to '93 Integra, and the intake that definitely has to be for a '90-93 Integra (stock diameter is too small. '94 up GSR just won't go in. I have a new AEM intake for a '94 Integra GSR to prove it. Anyone want it? I will sell cheap).

My main problem was that the damn hood would not close without removing the skeleton and it still rubs and rides up on the left side by 1/4 inch, or so. My handling has been good, but I put on new 16 inch wheels and Bridgestone Pole Position tires at the same time. the new intake is lighter, as is the flywheel, and header. I have bought a dry cell battery that is to be located in the rear compartment to reduce and move some of the weight. I am not sure of the weight difference between the stock D16 and the B18C, but I shaved about 30 already and the battery will eliminate 20 more and move 10 to the rear (the dry cell battery is really light weight and I bought the big one). Now, if I can find a reasonably priced carbon fiber hood to clear the engine, I will have it complete and closer to stock weight.

If I could change anything, it would be the tranny. I got the short gear ratio that was intended for use with a 9000+ RPM B16A, but red line on the B18C is only 8200 RPMs. Top end will not be much more than the electronically limited 112 mph (I am guessing 125 to 130 at red line, but I would hate to push the engine like that). But it accelerates like you can't believe. I would also like to have gone with the type R engine. Budget would not allow. Anyone in my area considering a B18C should contact me before buying. I have all of the equipment to do the swap and I would give a deal on my components and help with install in my garage in exchange for a type R swap. I might even be willing to chuck some cash in, depending on the deal.

More power, more torque. Handling still neutral. I say go for it and Good Luck!

 

question how doyou get the raduis arm to clear the tran and eng pully

 

Sorry buddy, the B16a has the same 8200rpm redline as the B18C1, as well as the B18C5. The only stock Honda motor given the 9G redline is the S2000's motor.

 

This isn't a problem with a B18C swap. The driver's side mount to crankshaft centerline distance is the same on all B-motors. Otherwise, B-series transmissions would not be interchangeable. The transmission and crankshaft pulley will hang no lower than with a B16A swap. The only possible fitment problem might be the hood. The B18C block is about 8mm taller than the B16A block. So the hood could end up hitting the valve cover. If this happens, it will be necessary to either remove the supporting in that area or go with a taller hood.

 

some of the mount kits or adapter nounts for the b18c1 into EFs set the engine lower so the hood clears but then you need to modify the radius rods