^thats suppose to say 95^sry

my car doesnt have many issues for being 1k miles away from 200k but it has small ones....while slowing down the idle will bounce up and down and then when i hit the gas a little itll stop and stay steady. TPS??

and i burn oil on start up piston rings i can assume. but not every day just every once in awhile....?..really just looking for a general price for piston rings for a honda....

when i hit 100mph (i dont beat my car. only hit it once just to see how it would run during and after) the check engine light went on for the first time then never came on again...

and thats it. if ne one can help with any of those problems i would appreciate it.

 

Unfortunately obd1's don't do a good job of telling us when there maybe a problem with a sensor until it's completely out so it's a long shot to assume that the TPS is bad. It may not even be sensor related, you could have some kind of vacuum issue also. Oil being burn on start up is usually due to bad valve seals not piston rings. If it burns oil during high rpm's than it will most likely be bad rings/walls. For your last problem, stop driving so fast LOL.

 

That idle issue of yours can be numerous things such as FITV, IACV, Clogged FITV coolant hoses, etc.

And IhateworkingoncaRs is right about burning oil at cold start up. Oil drains from either the valve seal or valve guide onto the neck of the valves and sits there til you start the car up. Once it starts running, it burns it right off which blows out gray smoke at cold start up.

 

oh sweet thanx...and yes i agree about the obd1 thing...and now that im looking at leaning towards valve seals wat kinda job is that price wise? and i was thinking IAC but its not any other time than after you release the throttle. i guess ill just wait until it throws a code ha and seafoam my intake while im at it and see if i can find a vaccum leak or unclogg something.

 

You said you dont "beat on my car". But most of us woul agree that going "100 mph" is beating on the car. Especially at 199,999 miles I would not be going much over 70. Just a thought.

 

What was the code the first time?

And at 365K on a 95 EX I only run the posted speed limit...+5mph. So on the interstate where allowed 80~85 mph.

 

i mean like on a daily basis i dont drive fast i dont race around. it was more or less a test. i agree doing 100 is beating on a car. if your doing it to get somewhere or for fun. and i never scaned it because once i turned my car off it never came back on.

 

But the code should be stored...unless you've reset the ECU since. My 3rd gen's store the codes?

And of course the coolant is full and no air...most of the time it would "bounce" all the time but want to ask. And at 199K the tb is clean??? no sticking butterfly.

 

Check this thread. You will probably find it handy.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/cleaning-iacv-fitv-tb-1844067/

 

good thought on tb sticking...i just got the car a month ago so havent had time to check it out. plus its cold. but yea im going to seafoam my intake. and clean everything up next day i have off. and if it doesnt run better thatll be a better starting point than just shooting out ideas of wat sensors could be going or already went

 

Hmnnn, I had the same issue.....but my Speedometer would go dead, and then come back up. In addition to the tach going wonky. Turned out the be Ignition Switch which was a cheap DIY 50$ fix.









when the contacts burn out (common problem, was a recall on the 97) power loss is experienced throughout the car. Vehicle thinks the Key is off....but really it's in between, if you turn the key, and hold it near the start position. It fixes....but you're driving around holding the key turned.

Could be a precursor to the ignition switch going back. Located left side under the steering wheel. Unscrew the panel under the steering wheel.

*note* ignition switch comes a part to install, unclip pull hard to separate. I didn't realize this until after. Good luck.

 

I have this same issue on my 94' Honda Accord lx and when I'd drive I'd have to jiggle the keys to get the erratic idle to go away. What would you recommend for replacement, Like what brand or does it even matter? Because I see ignition switches for like 50$-140$. I saw a keyless starter for 100$ too. I just don't really know what to decide on or if it mattered at all.

 

Koietsu, I have no idea what you're talking about. Keyless? see part #12


go get it from Honda. $29.83 USD from Majestic Honda. It's really easy to install. You can Do it yourself.

 

I was saying I had the same problem with my accord having idle problems and it turned out to be my ignition switch but I was asking if it mattered what brand to get to replace the ignition switch. I guess not, and I got carried away talking about the keyless starter

 

Get the Honda Switch.

I don't think there's an aftermarket for parts of this nature.

 

I got a new one from autozone and my car is still having idling issues.

 

Spark, Fuel, Air.... Where lies the issue?

Ignition Switch only effects ignition....start, and power to the vehicle.

Cap, Rotor, Wires, Ignition Switch, Spark Plugs?

 

I had cleaned the IACV, Adjusted the FITV, Cleaned TB, Cleaned the EGR Ports, Sprayed Carb cleaner on majority of the vacuum lines then taped them up, Changed spark plugs, and changed my ignition switch.

Still can't seem to figure out the problem.

 

Wires? Cap? Rotor? Wiring?