Since last time i was on here i built a h22 head h23 block frankie.. with h22 mahle forged pistons that stick out of the deck 0.026", and now has 30k on it. Anyone else ever build one of these frankie engines before, that lasted more than a week? Just curious...

 

There's plenty of h23vtec's with loads of miles on them.... I've actually never seen one that didn't last.

 

Mine has about 10k on it....but its all stock.

 

I think the bigger question is... is your h23 block sleeved, or do you have forged pistons in a stock FRM sleeve? If so, what pistons are they?

 

^He already said he had mahle pistons, they are FRM compatible.

 

all great replies but my question is has anyone used h22 pistons with crank, rods, from h23... the pistons stick out of the deck 0.026 and barely clears the ring landings at the top of the bore. completely h23 lower i know will work. just wondering if anyone has attempted this piston, crank, rods combo. the pistons i used were 0.25mm overbore -1cc mahle gold series forged. basically a stock h22 piston other than 100 g lighter each piston

 

the reason i am asking is i am curious as to how they/you got around some of the issues involved in using h22 pistons instead of h23. like the pistons hitting the head. or the fact that the timing belt is nowhere near long enough. what head gasket did they use. etc.

 

Ok, so you are just looking to see if anyone has done the same thing you did, and if it has lasted for them as well as yours?

I have not done this, but from what I have read, this should work fine, just give you a pretty high compression ratio. Using the H22 head gasket and timing belt should work for the application, just like an other H23 frankenstien, as you have to use the gasket and belt to match the head, so that you get the proper oil passages for vtec operation.

I would be interested in knowing the results of compression and leakdown tests after this much mileage, and seeing the condition of the bores would be even better.

 

well you definately cant use the stock head gasket because the pistons would hit the head. and ya compression is higher, about 10.85 to 1 i think it was. leakdown is perfect, and compression was an astounding 235psi each cylinder when i put it away in november. i used a stock h22a1 timing belt but had to make a crank gear and make a completely modified timing tensioner assy for it work. the total length of the engine is much higher than stock, hence needing to modify a **** ton of everything. i built the ultimate engine you can build with basically stock **** other than the pistons. completely rebuilt engine. it is the best combo that honda could have given us for nothing. but i doubt anyone has ever done it other than me.

 

i really want to know if someone has attempted it ever. noone would bother unless they wanted mahle forged pistons. and if they did h23 forged pistons are rare and pricier than h22, and why would anyone bother if they were sleeving an h22, using an h23 lower end assembly, if they were using a sleeved block. just pound the boost at it. i think i did the math way back when at almost a true 2.4 litres when i built it years ago. i did not recipe this engine from some stupid forum post. i took apart a k24a1, f22b1, h22a4, and an h23a1 and started measuring ****, and this is what i came up with. it works and works real well. passed smog test no prob untuned with p13 and some tricks. it has way more torquey feeling than the h22 type s, or the '01 h22a4 i had in my lude. and the exhaust note is retarded. no one done this?

 

Sounds like you've just put together an H23vtec, same as a million other people have done. Not to take anything away from you but people have been doing this forever and its a great setup. It also sounds like you may have made it a little harder than it needed to be. As far as timing goes you dont need to make anything custom, just use all H22 timing gears, h22 water pump and either H22 auto tensioner or the H23 manual tensioner which is preffered. (If you went with the auto-tensioner the belt would fit like stock, with the manual its a bit tighter). The block height of an H22 and H23 are identical, neither is taller and besides the differences like the water jackets between obd1 and obd2 and the crankshaft main journal sizes in the later years they are identical. You should have been just fine with a stock head gasket, the counterbore in the head is plenty deep enough that you wouldnt have clearance problems. Worst case scenario is that you would need to clearance the edges on the chamber just slightly to accomodate the slightly larger diameter larger piston. When I build a larger bore motor I always go in there and machine the counterbore in the cylinder head to match the piston size, I dont run a thicker gasket unless I need to take the compression down a little.

Glad to hear you have gone 30k miles, I'm not a fan of the Mahle pistons but its good to hear that someone has been succesful with them.

With the H23 crank and an 87.25mm piston you would be sitting at 2272 cc's, just short of 2.3 liters

 

I am not asking for anyone opinion on what to use or how to do it. All of what you said isnt right as for as the engine i built is right. The engine is taller The timing belt didnt fit. Why i will not say, that my info. I built it. It runs. You have an opinion. It doesnt come up to 2272cc, thats makes no sense. A stock engine is 2254cc i think, so how if i overbored 0.25mm on cylinders did i only get 18cc more discplacement. that make no sense even without aq calculator, and there are 4 more variables you dont even know about. Original question. Has anyone done this before. No opinions. If you didnt do it yourself, dont reply. Nothing anyone has said makes sense. I built it you cannot bs me people! Thank you for the replies.

 

Simple math will tell you that an 87.25 bore and 95mm stroke equals 2272cc's. .25mm is only .01" bigger on the diameter.

Everything I say is based on fact not opinion lol, if you want to call bs on what I say then prove it. Block heights are all the same, its been covered time and time again on this forumn and its written in plain English in the Helms manual. Block height is 8.643" btw and yes I have put this same motor together more times than you can even imagine lol