so right now my 97 accord is missing the pipe from the resonator to the muffler its ripped off at the resonator. i try to go find 1 at pull aparts no luck .... they all cut them off at the cat because state law doesnt let them sell the cat ... they are too lazy to unbolt it after the cat ... so i would have to weld it anyway .... but i went to a shop where they specialize in doing exhausts n the guy told me it be a lil over $100 to continue the pipe from where the resonator is ripped off to the muffler without the resonator ... he said it would cost more with the resonator .... my car right now is super loud!!! and because it has no backflow it has less power you can feel it when trying to speed up! if i do go get it professionaly done at the shop would the resonator affect horsepower at all? i heard its only to make car more quite!

 

Just do it the right way, put a resonator in.

 

he told me it will cost over $150 to put it with resonator .... and if it has no use only to quite car down then forget it!! im not made of money!

 

if your really straped for cash you can just skip having a resinator if you still have stock sizing pipping and the oem muffler and the sound shouldnt go up much

but i would think that it would still be cheaper to get a b-pipe from the jy and just have that welded

 

Just because it bugs me a bit, it's quiet not quite.

But yes, it will quiet down the car. In all honesty there are certain things you shouldn't skimp out on and doing basic maintenance and getting your car back into good shape is one of those things. If you can't pony up $150 or so to restore the exhaust system have you considered going to a Pick-n-Pull or Junkyard and buying a whole stock exhaust on the cheap?

I mean here is a list of full exhausts (aftermarket) that include all the piping and a muffler, resonator, etc on eBay for under $150 with free shipping.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?Make=Hon...=p3286.c0.m282

 

i already been to pickn pulls a few times b4 and recently n never could find it....

 

jy???

 

im thinking ill just buy one of those from ebay i didnt even know they would be cheaper ... makes sense those people at shops want cash for the work lol but thanx alot man!

 

I had one of the stainless steel headers available on eBay for my H22A swap and it ran just fine, so long as you keep your OEM cat you should be good to go. Just keep in mind some of those might be obnoxiously loud, but would sound better and more controller than running an open downpipe.

 

yea i would be cool with that ... right now im lucky i havnt been pulled over yet!
so any one of those will work? id be down to change everything from headers to muffler!

 

DX/LX are different than EX for at least the header, I would wager the cat-back portion would be the same. Just make sure you buy the correct application for your car. I did a generic search for a 1997 Accord.

 

mines a SE and yes its an auto ... i wanted the stock parts because i dont wanna be like those idiots who rice out autos ... im fixing it up to sell it to buy a stick !

 

all 94-97 catbacks are the same (except wagon axle backs but they will still work being that the only diffrence is the placement of the tail pipe tip, and if i remember someone on HS is using a V6 exhaust on their I4 but idk)...you can use an ex header on your dx/lx but the o2 sensor is in diffrent places and on some ex headers they connect to the cat with 3 bolts instead of 2

 

mines a 4 door SE/special edition ... im trying figure out which one of those will fit on mine?!?!

 

The SE has a F22B2 if I'm not mistaken which is the LX/DX engine.

 

IIRC the B pipe are all the same, aren't they! The only difference in the axle back is the twin tip EX muffler vs the single tip LX/DX muffler. They still mount the same. I had EX exhaust from the cat back on my F22B2.

 

some of them dont show pics ... do they come with everything from headers complete to muffler?
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?Make=Hon...8.l2552&_pgn=1
or do they come from the cat then go on to muffler? so i would keep the cat ?!?!

 

Ok, putting a resonator back into the system will loose power, the reason we put diff exhaust on a car is for less restriction in turn gives more power and torque, so if running all stock parts, measure the length pipe you need go to auto zone get that length and two clamps and install, shouldn't cost more then $20, I always get ride of my resonators, I have a header to converter, to the muffler, all 2.5 inch piping, I still pass smog and gain more power, the on reason they are put in at factory is to deaden sound, and rob power for hopes of better gas mileage, so in turn, back pressure is bad, no resonator is good, if your loosing power it's not cuz of that, I'd look more into timing and fuel pressure along with ditching the auto and do the 5 speed conversion, the auto trans also robs about 35-45% of the horse power the engine produces

 

I would like to see a dyno of the exhaust with and without a resonator to back up your claims of added power. Do you know how much power removing a hollow pipe (resonator) adds to your stock engine? I'm sure it probably sounds like more power though

 

Muffin Man concurs with this assessment.

 

lol because removing a cat doesnt even add 5 hp and cats are more restrictive than resonators

also some back pressure is not always bad....alot of the low end power comes from back pressure

 

No! back pressure is bad. No power can come from having exhaust gasses forced back into your combustion chamber and taking up the space of a good clean intake charge. I think you must be thinking of something else. But back pressure or the resistance to a moving fluid or gas by obstructions or tight bends in the confinement vessel along which it is moving, such as piping or air vents, against its direction of flow. Is not good for power. Maintaining exhaust gas velocity is good for power. That also means that bigger isn't always better ether.

 

yes ik i want to swap it to a 5speed this summer if i can get a legit list of all the parts i need and instructions .... but yea i bought a stainless steel catback exhaust off ebay it says it adds 10-15hp so... ik its better than the stock 1 anyways ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-97...ht_4002wt_1165

 

Bingo. Exhaust velocity is key. An exhaust system too large for a given engine will only stall the exhaust gases . I still am amazed at how many times I see an exhaust system with a 2" mid pipe and then a jantastic 3" tail/muffler assembly.

As the exhaust gases travel through the system they cool and contract, to maintain velocity a reduction in the systems diameter would be best.
Popular Hot Rodding did a test on exhaust system sizes years ago.
They found on a Vista Cruiser with 455ci that the car was faster in the 1/4 with 3" collectors, 2-1/2" mid pipes and 2-1/4" tails.

Doing the reverse with a stock midpipe and ricer muffler only amplifies the sound like a megaphone.

 

so what would be a professional +++HP perfect size n all?