my coils ride shitty and i was just wondering if anyone ever put aftermarket lowering springs on adjustable coils? i did a lot of research and so far i've only found 2 posts and its not honda related any help? thanks in advance!

 

Doesn't work. Springs are too tall.

 

couldn't of looked too hard we just did this post last week. with pictures.

normal lowering springs are waaaay too big in comparison to Coilover springs.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...highlight=tein

 

dang haha thanks for the link! XD it only had tein on coils thats why it didn't show up! i guess i'll have to stick with coils any recommendations for GOOD riding coils??

 

What's your budget? What shocks/coils do you have now?

Goals for the car?

Define "good riding"

You can't really lower your car more than 2" and not have stiffer springs. 400F and 250R at minimum to prevent damage.

 

well i bought the car for 1500 and it came with some EGAY coils when i did a bit of research. my budget is something around 3-400 bucks. and my definition is "so my *** won't hurt and my head doesn't bobble on EVERY little bump on the road..

 

Then you need to wait and save up about $580 and get progress CS-II with a 350F 250R spring-rate.

That or get Koni srt with some good lowering springs like H&R sport or tein S.tech.

Eibach makes good stuff too.


Anything cheaper than $600 is going to ride like ***. You could maybe get some used koni/gc with a decent spring rate for about $500 if you bargain hunt. But you wont get the lifetime warranty.

 

So I have a similar question. I'm in a middle of a complete rebuild and its my first, but I just built the motor to withstand 700+ HP and I'm hoping to get 5-600 whp out of it. Its going to be a DD but see the track every once in a while.

So my budget is about 2-2500, should i do struts/springs or just go with coil overs? I also need control arms, sway bar, and camber kit. Any suggestion?

Not trying to jack your thread, I just don't see a reason to start another when this one is similar.

 

Please realize 500whp civics break into the 10 second 1/4 mile range. You won't be daily driving that with "occasional track time"

It's hard to take you serious when you have goals similar to a small handful of tuning cars on the planet.

You aren't remotely ready to build a 5-600whp car and for these reasons:

1) You don't need a camber kit. Ever. Not unless you want MORE camber.
2) What do you need control arms for? The oem ones work fine and are more reliable. Any Honda enthusiast who races seriously will tell you to use OEM control arms.
3) You won't need sway bars. With that much horsepower, to even maintain traction and control you're going to need ~1000lb rates in the rear and ~600lb rates in the front. Sway bars are just about useless with rates this stiff. These rates are going to feel like you're riding in a 1800's horse and buggy cart on a wooden seat. Another reason you won't be daily driving it.
4) It's thread jacking. Regardless how similar it is.

 

The engine is already been built. G.E sleeves, port and polished head with Manley rods, 84.5 Wiseco pistons, Ferrea valves and supertech retainers and springs with a Precision 6765 ball bearing turbo and synapse manifold.

But Thanks for letting me know I didn't drop all that money and already build the engine. Must of been a dream. I don't know much about the suspension part and like I said this is my first build. I appreciate the advice about the suspension. But, I still need to know what the better option is with running coilovers or just doing a struts with lowering springs?

 

They don't make springs with the rates you'll need.

I'll look forward to seeing your dyno chart.

 

Thanks for the Info, I'll be more than happy to post it when it comes time.

 

Pay attention to what EK posted above, as he is 100% correct on all points. There is not a lowering spring available on this planet with rates stiff enough to handle 500+ hp.

With that much power you better also be planning a full roll cage. I assume you'll be wanting to run slicks, in which case a camber kit to get 0 camber can be beneficial for maximum traction during drag launch.

 

Ah, that's one point I was wrong on. For drag racing he will want 0 camber for maximum straight line traction.