first startup b20v problem HEEELLLLPPP!
hey i just started my b20vtec for the first time. it sounds realllllllly rough and weird.
it will bog when given throttle
i have not driven it, only idled
sounds like a severe misfire
motor shakes on mounts (not smooth)
sounds reaally rough, maybe not firing all cylinders
i idled it for about 3 minutes, not fully warm. turned it off sounded so horrible.
any things to check? unless the timing belt jumped a tooth, it should all be tdc correct. will double check.
i have video of startup with audio of how it sounds. will post later on computer.
its b16a3 head (94 del sol vtec) FULLY stock
b20z2 block (99 CRV dx) FULLY stock
please gimme some shouts HT
it will bog when given throttle
i have not driven it, only idled
sounds like a severe misfire
motor shakes on mounts (not smooth)
sounds reaally rough, maybe not firing all cylinders
i idled it for about 3 minutes, not fully warm. turned it off sounded so horrible.
any things to check? unless the timing belt jumped a tooth, it should all be tdc correct. will double check.
i have video of startup with audio of how it sounds. will post later on computer.
its b16a3 head (94 del sol vtec) FULLY stock
b20z2 block (99 CRV dx) FULLY stock
please gimme some shouts HT
I'd guess timing belt on wrong. A dude I know did a rebuild and when first start, rpms where jumping and motor ran weird. Then checked belt and sure enough it was off. Also make sure you got the wires on right. other than that just keep us posted.
just put it back together. was off tdc by a bit. a lot actually. dunno how i fvcked that up.
now it runs, still really rough. the scraping noise appears to be air whistling somewhere around IM.
now it's not firing on 3rd cylinder. passenger side second cylinder in. three.
no spark from the wire to metal surfaces on head. other three sparked.
ideas? thanks.
now it runs, still really rough. the scraping noise appears to be air whistling somewhere around IM.
now it's not firing on 3rd cylinder. passenger side second cylinder in. three.
no spark from the wire to metal surfaces on head. other three sparked.
ideas? thanks.
i suspect that the misfire isn't the only problem. still suspect itll run rough after that cylinder fires (just a guess.) it bogs when given acceleration.
checking compression on all cylinders now. will check back in ten minutes after i have compression ratings per cyl.
what do you mean "have you had it tuned?" no i just put all the parts together and started it. what is entailed in 'tuning' and how would i go about it.
no real shops here to do that. small island.
checking compression on all cylinders now. will check back in ten minutes after i have compression ratings per cyl.
what do you mean "have you had it tuned?" no i just put all the parts together and started it. what is entailed in 'tuning' and how would i go about it.
no real shops here to do that. small island.
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compression is 160 across the board. all four cylinders.
plug wire on misfiring cylinder is missing clip inside tube. plug wires need to be replaced.
every single cylinder is running too rich. good plugs instantly come out wet and black. sooty.
what could cause the vehicle to run waaay too rich?
will post pictures later. not at home.
plug wire on misfiring cylinder is missing clip inside tube. plug wires need to be replaced.
every single cylinder is running too rich. good plugs instantly come out wet and black. sooty.
what could cause the vehicle to run waaay too rich?
will post pictures later. not at home.
first figure out why that cylinder isnt firing then check to make sure your tps and map sensors arent switched around those get mixed up alot and will cause it to not react when throttle is applied
TPS and MAP sensors. thos are the two right on the throttle body right? what do you mean by switched, like the wires are wrong or the sensors on the throttle body are swapped...
thanks will check first thing tomorrow am.
anything else guys? thanks.
thanks will check first thing tomorrow am.
anything else guys? thanks.

plugs are all fouled and black. lots of carbon, black and moist.
running waaay too rich.
PIXOR IS OLD HAVE NOT REPLACED PLUGS YET
it's past midnight, can't get plugs or wires until tomorrow.
assuming it's running extremely rich and fouling plugs... what to check next?
ppl don't respond to build threads. they just spectate.
okay i will have new wires on within one hour.
checking CEL codes now.
still running very rich and fouling plugs. rough idle doesn't sound right, bogs on acceleration.
any ideas? bummmmp
okay i will have new wires on within one hour.
checking CEL codes now.
still running very rich and fouling plugs. rough idle doesn't sound right, bogs on acceleration.
any ideas? bummmmp
"Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM"
okay so that is very close to where the screeching air whistle sound is coming from. getting closer.
any ideas? taking IACV off and cleaning it right now.
ECM ----- "A microprocessor that determines the beginning and end of each injection cycle on every cylinder. The ECM determines both fuel metering and injection timing in response to such parameters as engine crankshaft position and rpm, engine coolant and intake air temperature, and absolute intake air ..."
now i have to find my ecm and clean/replace.
okay so that is very close to where the screeching air whistle sound is coming from. getting closer.
any ideas? taking IACV off and cleaning it right now.
ECM ----- "A microprocessor that determines the beginning and end of each injection cycle on every cylinder. The ECM determines both fuel metering and injection timing in response to such parameters as engine crankshaft position and rpm, engine coolant and intake air temperature, and absolute intake air ..."
now i have to find my ecm and clean/replace.
Eh start with the IACV like you are doing but ecm= ecu. Not going to be easy to clean. Is it throwing a code 0 that would mean a bad ecu....What ecu are you running it with? Im scared..
update. installed wires. firing all four cylinders.
compression all cyl 160psi.
plugs look like this (all four.)

appears to be a vacuum leak around intake manifold. sounds like a screeching, but it's air whistling. i inspected every single hose, found no leaks, nothing disconnected. crimped each hose with pliers, nothing changed.
lumpy idle, code 14 - IACV or ECM. code comes back after being cleared.
cleaned IACV, (didn't look dirty though) and applied RTV around the gasket. IACV after cleaning..

no change. still whistles, fouling plugs etc.
looked in coolant, it's milky (no bubbles, just thick) and slightly whitish-brown. Doesn't appear to be oil mixing, smells like coolant. Suspect all the motor oil dumped down into block cooling sleeves during build to prevent rust. No coolant or bubbles in the oil, it looks clean. not losing oil either. the wrecker (who pulled my block) doused it in ATF to prevent rust during transit on ship (salty air = rust.) picture makes it look brown, it's more of a light tan/white

here is an audio clip of how my motor sounds. listen for bog on acceleration (will throttle up though when held open.) lumpy bouncing idle.
tried backing up the hill behind car, no luck. Motor bogs too hard to power up hill. Only tried once, possible i could rev up and pop the clutch but that won't fix anything.
i don't believe head gasket is bad, it has perfect compression. holds it too. believe color of coolant will return to normal after flushing all assembly lubricants/possible previous stop-leak/ATF/rusty buildup/random gunk from sitting. will flush tomorrow.
HEEELLLLPPP MEEEE!!
thanks HT.
compression all cyl 160psi.
plugs look like this (all four.)

appears to be a vacuum leak around intake manifold. sounds like a screeching, but it's air whistling. i inspected every single hose, found no leaks, nothing disconnected. crimped each hose with pliers, nothing changed.
lumpy idle, code 14 - IACV or ECM. code comes back after being cleared.
cleaned IACV, (didn't look dirty though) and applied RTV around the gasket. IACV after cleaning..

no change. still whistles, fouling plugs etc.
looked in coolant, it's milky (no bubbles, just thick) and slightly whitish-brown. Doesn't appear to be oil mixing, smells like coolant. Suspect all the motor oil dumped down into block cooling sleeves during build to prevent rust. No coolant or bubbles in the oil, it looks clean. not losing oil either. the wrecker (who pulled my block) doused it in ATF to prevent rust during transit on ship (salty air = rust.) picture makes it look brown, it's more of a light tan/white

here is an audio clip of how my motor sounds. listen for bog on acceleration (will throttle up though when held open.) lumpy bouncing idle.
tried backing up the hill behind car, no luck. Motor bogs too hard to power up hill. Only tried once, possible i could rev up and pop the clutch but that won't fix anything.
i don't believe head gasket is bad, it has perfect compression. holds it too. believe color of coolant will return to normal after flushing all assembly lubricants/possible previous stop-leak/ATF/rusty buildup/random gunk from sitting. will flush tomorrow.
HEEELLLLPPP MEEEE!!
thanks HT.
bro you should of posted this in the ALL MOTOR section cuz more guys out there. Yea your coolant dont look good/right. So i'm guessing you cant even check the timing since the idle is not steady....right?
Coolant is green. I would start there.
It should like a bad ECU but you still havent said what you are running so we cant help you in that department.
You prolly have a leaking IM or TB gasket...if the hoses didn't find the leak.
I would start by stepping back and looking at those plugs, what is making it run so rich. Is it the ecu, gapping of the plugs (which agian you havent said). Oil could be getting past the PCV and allowing excess of blowby into the intake manifold if its an old motor.
Did you compression test hot or cold and did you wet test as well. 160 sounds low for a b20/v due to the compression increase of the static compression ratio with the head change. Hell normal b20's are usually 190. I have a low compression motor that is brand new and it pumped 195 and my pistons are 9:1 and a b16 head....and I dont think your static compression ratio is that old.
Sounds like I would start at the ecu man....lets go from there. Those plugs are very rich possibly bogging the motor.
You said it misfired....that would be the obvious place to start.
Are you map IACV and tps all connected correctly.
Get a video man....its like finding the needle in the haystack right meow
It should like a bad ECU but you still havent said what you are running so we cant help you in that department.
You prolly have a leaking IM or TB gasket...if the hoses didn't find the leak.
I would start by stepping back and looking at those plugs, what is making it run so rich. Is it the ecu, gapping of the plugs (which agian you havent said). Oil could be getting past the PCV and allowing excess of blowby into the intake manifold if its an old motor.
Did you compression test hot or cold and did you wet test as well. 160 sounds low for a b20/v due to the compression increase of the static compression ratio with the head change. Hell normal b20's are usually 190. I have a low compression motor that is brand new and it pumped 195 and my pistons are 9:1 and a b16 head....and I dont think your static compression ratio is that old.
Sounds like I would start at the ecu man....lets go from there. Those plugs are very rich possibly bogging the motor.
You said it misfired....that would be the obvious place to start.
Are you map IACV and tps all connected correctly.
Get a video man....its like finding the needle in the haystack right meow


