Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 186
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From: PA, USA
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Nice I'm in the same boat. Im going to look at a 98 ex with 160k today. Let me know how CRV treats you with the high miles on it (especially the diff noises). Im not going to go as far as u for the mpgs but I do have some mods in mind.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 16
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From: Toronto (GTA), Ontario, Canada
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Wow, this is some very interesting stuff you are doing in terms of efficiency! Please keep us updated on the increases! So you can still order this bumper from the dealership? What is the product number?
Where did you get the fog lights that fit in there? Online or local store?
Did the bumper come with brackets, or did you have to customize it?
Thanks!
Where did you get the fog lights that fit in there? Online or local store?
Did the bumper come with brackets, or did you have to customize it?
Thanks!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Toronto (GTA), Ontario, Canada
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Awesome Thanks! You are right I just found it here:
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=17066
71101-S10-G10 FACE, FR. BUMPER $199.00
71102-S10-000 GARNISH, R. FR. $8.76
71103-S10-000 GARNISH, L. FR. $8.76
Wal-mart is where I'm heading!
Cheers!
http://www.hondasuv.com/members/showthread.php?t=17066
71101-S10-G10 FACE, FR. BUMPER $199.00
71102-S10-000 GARNISH, R. FR. $8.76
71103-S10-000 GARNISH, L. FR. $8.76
Wal-mart is where I'm heading!
Cheers!
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,437
Likes: 0
From: usa
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Wow! This thread is awesome! Good pick and find on that CRV. I never came into this side of H-T, but this thread intrigues me. 
Have you thought of maybe investing in getting the car tuned on the older forms of Hondata? You can get partial throttle tuning so you squeeze the most out of the car as far as MPGs go.
How is it in the snow?
Have you thought of maybe investing in getting the car tuned on the older forms of Hondata? You can get partial throttle tuning so you squeeze the most out of the car as far as MPGs go.
How is it in the snow?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 57
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Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Awesome car, I'm in the same boat as you. With my son I basically was thowing my son to the back seat of my 2dr civic hatchback. now we have another baby coming soon. So i'm shopping for a CRV, but I need an auto this time. I have been driving a stick since 1992 its time for an auto.
nice ride btw.
nice ride btw.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,820
Likes: 1
From: Surrey, BC, Canada
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
I had a 97 that started the rear diff howling. It was still under waranty, and the dealer did a double fluid change and a "vent kit" installation. The noise was gone. I think the key is the double change (more or less a flush), and if your's doesn't have a vent, get the kit from the dealer.
My '00 is doing it now, and has been for quite a long time. It only does it when I make a tight slow speed turn (U-turn, etc...), or when the fronts are spinning in low traction situations.
My '00 is doing it now, and has been for quite a long time. It only does it when I make a tight slow speed turn (U-turn, etc...), or when the fronts are spinning in low traction situations.
I said I don't want a title!
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 11,506
Likes: 2
From: OH
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Anyone ever have experience with whining rear diff's? Mine was pretty bad so I changed the fluid with Honda dual pump fluid. It still made the noise but not as loud. It seems like it is slowly going away.
If any of you had the same noise, did changing the fluid immediately clear up the noise or did it take a few days/weeks depending on how often the all wheel drive kicks in?
If any of you had the same noise, did changing the fluid immediately clear up the noise or did it take a few days/weeks depending on how often the all wheel drive kicks in?
Been a while since I had my '99, but this got rid of everything.
And honestly, I would not sweat the oil situation or screw around with an additional filter--you're just asking for something to go wrong. With a good filter, good oil and highway miles, there is no reason that you can't drive 7,500 miles on one change.
Just make sure you get the valves adjusted ASAP if you haven't already. If your MPG is that good, then perhaps your valves are already too tight.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,378
Likes: 0
From: West, TN, USA
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
I just did a very similar thing! lol. i sold my 93 240sx convertible and bought a 99 5spd crv in red! lol. i have a 2yr old that is the feature of my "Honda Family" so i wanted something for him to ride in and be safe and comfy! lol. i have a 95 Integra coupe and a 78 Honda CB motorcycle. lol. keep those updates coming homie!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 1
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
jlk16188,
Nice Angle here!
What parts you had dismantled on this area to accommodate the fogs?
If you will not use a fog light temporarily, Is it just plug and play on the bumper?
Nice Angle here!
What parts you had dismantled on this area to accommodate the fogs?
If you will not use a fog light temporarily, Is it just plug and play on the bumper?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
UPDATE:
Well i have been getting around 24 or 25 mpgs in town but lately I have been driving for work a lot more, upwards of 500 miles per week and have found that my mpgs on the highway have been around 20-22 mpg.
I work with a former honda engineer who coincidently did a ton of development work and even worked as a test drive engineer for the 1st gen crv's. we worked out that the issue was my air intake system. The warm air intake i made worked great for short trips and for cold start fuel efficiency. However, it adversely affected my fuel economy when the motor reached normal operating temps.
He said, that no matter what, basic efficiency relates back to carnot efficiency, where you want the maximum difference in temps between your intake and exhaust. The warm air intake worked great to do just as i originally hoped, which was to lean out the air/fuel mixture but it only worked towards my favor when the motor was cold.
Since then, i have removed the warm air intake and modified it to pull air in from in front of the radiator.
If you followed my previous posts, i completely removed all of the intake piping from behind the bumper including the large white resonating chamber. This chamber, confirmed by the friend the ex honda engineer, is only used to eliminate different low tone sound frequencies that honda calls "engine booming" Since i really dont care what the car sounds like, in the trash it went. I then bought a flexible tube intake from the auto parts store and ducted it from the inlet of the oem air box (which i previously modified, see the posts above) and routed it down around the core support and mounted it right at the front edge of the radiator, behind the grill of the bumper.
SO far, i have seen a difference when the engine is completely warmed up, visible on my vacuum gauge. It seems as though i have reduced the amount of load on the engine by about 5% just by pulling in the coldest air i can. Now i have only driven the car about 20 miles so far but next week i will be driving another 600 miles to Indiana so i will update you guys about my fuel efficiency gain, or loss.
I'm hoping to see a gain in mpgs on the highway. I would really like to see 30 mpgs average per tank
Late this summer I will probably be trying out low rolling resistance tires mounted on my new rims. For now i have just pumped 37 psi into each tire to see how that works out for me
Well i have been getting around 24 or 25 mpgs in town but lately I have been driving for work a lot more, upwards of 500 miles per week and have found that my mpgs on the highway have been around 20-22 mpg.
I work with a former honda engineer who coincidently did a ton of development work and even worked as a test drive engineer for the 1st gen crv's. we worked out that the issue was my air intake system. The warm air intake i made worked great for short trips and for cold start fuel efficiency. However, it adversely affected my fuel economy when the motor reached normal operating temps.
He said, that no matter what, basic efficiency relates back to carnot efficiency, where you want the maximum difference in temps between your intake and exhaust. The warm air intake worked great to do just as i originally hoped, which was to lean out the air/fuel mixture but it only worked towards my favor when the motor was cold.
Since then, i have removed the warm air intake and modified it to pull air in from in front of the radiator.
If you followed my previous posts, i completely removed all of the intake piping from behind the bumper including the large white resonating chamber. This chamber, confirmed by the friend the ex honda engineer, is only used to eliminate different low tone sound frequencies that honda calls "engine booming" Since i really dont care what the car sounds like, in the trash it went. I then bought a flexible tube intake from the auto parts store and ducted it from the inlet of the oem air box (which i previously modified, see the posts above) and routed it down around the core support and mounted it right at the front edge of the radiator, behind the grill of the bumper.
SO far, i have seen a difference when the engine is completely warmed up, visible on my vacuum gauge. It seems as though i have reduced the amount of load on the engine by about 5% just by pulling in the coldest air i can. Now i have only driven the car about 20 miles so far but next week i will be driving another 600 miles to Indiana so i will update you guys about my fuel efficiency gain, or loss.
I'm hoping to see a gain in mpgs on the highway. I would really like to see 30 mpgs average per tank
Late this summer I will probably be trying out low rolling resistance tires mounted on my new rims. For now i have just pumped 37 psi into each tire to see how that works out for me
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,703
Likes: 3
From: SEATTLE SON!
Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Nice CR-V! I really dont think you are going to see any better than 25mpg though. I have a silver, 98, auto, 4wd and really like it alot. It has 240,000 miles on it and I drove it from Seattle across the country this January to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina for work. Made the 3000 mile trip like a champ! The best MPG I was able to achieve was driving length wise across Nebraska with the cruise control set to 60 for an entire tank of gas and I got 25mpg.
I love my CR-V but have been contemplating selling it for and element or 07 and up CR-V lol who knows though would be cook to hit 300K in it.
JDM bumper looks great BTW! keep up the good work
I love my CR-V but have been contemplating selling it for and element or 07 and up CR-V lol who knows though would be cook to hit 300K in it.
JDM bumper looks great BTW! keep up the good work
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 634
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Re: Project “Daddy Wagon” 99 CRV daily driver build -56k no way
Don't you understand what 0w-30 means? Once the oil is warm it has the same viscosity as any 5w-30 or 10w-30. What the first number refers to is how thick it is when it is cold. The second number refers to how thick it is when it is warm. All oil is too viscous when it is cold but 0w is the least viscous. So the 0w-30 acts like a 0w oil when it is cold (and a 0w at low temperatures is still more viscous than a 30 weight at operating temperature) and a 30 weight oil when it is at operating temperature. That's why it's better for fuel economy, the oil isn't as thick when it's cold so you get better efficiency when it's warming up. So basically all it means is the lower the first number, the more stable the viscosity of the oil is at low temperatures, the second number is always the weight at operating temperature.