As the title says, theres grease coming out of the master cylinder input shaft under the dash.

 

I sure hope not cause mine's been that way since I've had it

 

Lol^

 

It could indicate that it's on its way out. That's how mine looked when I had to replace it. However, a better indicator would be to check your hydraulic fluid level. If it's getting low, it could be due to a leaky master cylinder.

When mine failed, I could not even get the car to shift into gear. I also noticed over time that the engage point for my clutch changed. Fortunately, I found it really wasn't too difficult to replace the master cylinder. Took about an hour with the right tools, probably would take less if your hood isn't stuck closed like mine was lol.

 

LOL! Mines been doing that for years as well. Dunno if it's normal or not, but I've never had a problem with leaking fluids or performance.

 

Honestly it's hard to tell, that just looks like grease. Btw, that looks like an aftermarket master cylinder, so it may have been replaced at some point already.

 

I would say no.
That is just grease to lube the shaft,if the MC was bad it would be leaking brake fluid.

 

The reservoir fluid level dosent go down when i pump the clutch

 

So i pumped the pedal 3 times, loosened the valve an I can hear air come out, but no liquid. I repeated this process at least 50 times and no liquid comes out.

I also followed the lines and there is no leak anywhere.

If i get a new master cylinder will there still be air in my lines ? Or would i be able do get some pressure on my clutch ?

 

pump it more than 3 times, try like 10 or so.

 

Took your advice


My steps of bleeding:

1. Valve is closed, pumped the clutch pedal 3-20 times, left pedal down
2. Opened valve but no liquid came out, only air (i could hear it)
3. Closed valve
4. Pulled clutch pedal up, pumped clutch pedal again 3-20 times, left pedal down
5. Opened valve
6. No liquid came out, only air (i could hear it)

Repeated the process several times, at least 50 and still no liquid

 

I would guess something is clogged.I would remove the reservoir and clean it out and then blow out the hose that connects to the master cylinder.

 

Actually the flex line going to the slave cylinder might have collapsed internally.

 

I will try thatt, thanks

 

The flex line is the one attached to the tranny right ? Because from what i remember in order is the master cylinder, two hard lines connect to that which lead to a splitter on the fire wall, then one hard line leads to a rubber/plastic hose, which leads to the hard line attached to the tranny which leads to the slave. Correct me if im wrong

 

The rubber hose is the flex line.

 

i think pumping the clutch a number of times then opening the valve doesnt build up pressure at the valve cylinder like bleeding your brakes do,

how i bled my clutch today was:

finish replacing my master cylinder.
1. bench bled it by having it and the reservoir out the car and filling the attached reservoir with brake fluid
2. dont need a vice if your decently strong, depress the master cylinder slowly UNTIL brake fluid starts flowing out.
3. the depression stroke that it pushes fluid out, hold your thumb TIGHTLY over the port to prevent air from getting sucked back in
4. slowly release the shaft

do it a couple of times after that, and have the port upright so bubbles float to the top and come out

1. install the new master cylinder and try not to press the input shaft while installing from the inside (if you hooked up the hardline beforehand, dont worry about)
2. once everything is installed and fluid is full in the reservoir, keep the lid off
3. attach a rubber hose to the bleeder on the slave
4. at the end have a container slightly filled with brake fluid (not full but enough to keep hose submerged
5. i bled the clutch system alone and by leaving the bleeder valve open, the hose in the container, slowly pulsate the clutch pedal (dont go crazy, press and depress once every 2 seconds or so) (also make sure the reservoir stays full, topping it off)
6. after doing it for about a minute, close the bleeder valve, top fluid off finally, and clutch should be firm

 

If i'm right, are you saying that the flex line is effed up ?

 

i'm 90% sure thats not brake fluid of any kind. thats grease. and thats an aftermarket master cylinder

was a dust cover on your master cylinder? someone might have put it there just to keep it greased

 

It might be, sometimes fluid will get between the layers and collapse the inner layer blocking the hose.

 

Well idk if i should replace the master cylinder yet since i have no sign of it actually being bad/going bad

Could i bleed the clutch as you did though ? Even if i didnt replace the master ?

 

So if its an aftermarket master it should still be good right ?

No dust cover

 

Im gonna remove it and blow on it to see if it is blocked

No homo

 

yea you can still do it the way i said,

i originally wanted to "reverse bleed" the system but i didnt have any way to force the fluid by up through the bleeder, i heard it works good though because air will be at the highest point in the system, and the highest point is the master cylinder, reverse bleeding will push from the master cyl to the reservoir easy pie.

but yeah just bleed like i said if your by your self, pumping the clutch with the bleeder closed doesnt build any pressure, your just need to create "flow"

 

Correct me if i am wrong

If i bleed it the way your telling me, the hose that i will connect to the bleeder valve will go into a container with brake fluid. Then i will pump the clutch every 2-3 seconds. Then close the valve, top off the fluid, and the clutch should be firm.

So basically the hose will bubble in the container when i press the clutch in(forcing air out the lines), and when i pull the clutch pedal upthe hose will suck liquid in. Am i right ? Cus it sounds like it'll work.