H22 swap almost complete few ?s
Ok so ots cranked and running but I have.liquid in tb I think coolant but its dark. Only thing I can think of is iacv which not sure why so anyone?
Also did auto - 5speed conversion all complete but wont go into gear like pedal isnt going in far enough to fully engage. I have the pedal adjusted almost all the way out so not sure whats the prob? Help
Also did auto - 5speed conversion all complete but wont go into gear like pedal isnt going in far enough to fully engage. I have the pedal adjusted almost all the way out so not sure whats the prob? Help
OK first question
How cold is it there and Im trying to think how coolant can get into the TB and its impossable in my head.
if its cold then it might be just water from condensation
second question answered.
You need to do a good bleed on the clutch line even if you think you did a good bleed. Hope this helps.
How cold is it there and Im trying to think how coolant can get into the TB and its impossable in my head.
if its cold then it might be just water from condensation
second question answered.
You need to do a good bleed on the clutch line even if you think you did a good bleed. Hope this helps.
Only reason I suggested coolant was because it is a new swap. I figured that it would probably be easier to see a bit of coolant from the IACV or FITV before you would see fuel up there.
It could also be oil...maybe some residual fluids from when you put everything together??? Easiest way to find out what it is would be to wipe it up with a rag and take a closer look at it.
As for your clutch, check all of your lines, make sure they are tight, and bleed the system completely as mentioned above. Also have someone check the action of your slave cylinder when you depress the clutch pedal. If it isn't moving then you ether have a master cylinder or pedal adjustment issue.
What is your clutch pedal height, from the surface of the pedal pad to the floor? Also what is your clutch pedal disengagement height, when pedal depressed, height from surface of pedal to floor?
It could also be oil...maybe some residual fluids from when you put everything together??? Easiest way to find out what it is would be to wipe it up with a rag and take a closer look at it.

As for your clutch, check all of your lines, make sure they are tight, and bleed the system completely as mentioned above. Also have someone check the action of your slave cylinder when you depress the clutch pedal. If it isn't moving then you ether have a master cylinder or pedal adjustment issue.
What is your clutch pedal height, from the surface of the pedal pad to the floor? Also what is your clutch pedal disengagement height, when pedal depressed, height from surface of pedal to floor?
If your keeping everything OBD2 then you do not need to swap the A6 & A11 pins. That is only if you are swapping between an OBD1 & OBD2, Accord P0A/P0B to Prelude P13 ECU.
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Took down street finally. A lil rough but wasnt warmed n dizzy needs to be set at idle. But getting exhaust fixed tomm n hopefully be riding out
header pipe on cylinder 1 turning blue 2 no color 3 n 4 turning gold pulled all plugs all are burning fuel except 2. B4 l had spark all plugs were wet from fuel. So getting fuel to all n spark. But 2 something is going on. Help
replaced plugs #2 still isnt igniting. lm gonna do compression test tomm. but if it does read fine what could it be? and if it doesnt read good comp. what could be causes? l know a fried piston ring but what else?
what does "liquid in tb" mean exactly? I'm assuming that's liquid in throttle body? If so, what do you mean exactly? Most engine places spray down the engine before they sell it and obviously throttle body's have carbon buildup in them.
Regarding the clutch issue, there may be air in the system, bleed the clutch again, make sure you don't get air in there.
Regarding the clutch issue, there may be air in the system, bleed the clutch again, make sure you don't get air in there.
compression on cylinder1,3,4 all were 210-240 but 2 motor didnt even turn over at all and had 0. now if 2 isnt turning over obviously not gonna get compression. could this be something else besides a blown ring or something else?
lm almost positive my valves are good. so leaves rings but what l dont get is why motor wouldnt even turn over when l was testing cylinder 2????
before l replaced the head l spun motor over all pistons where moving fine. and now all pistons are still moving up and down. ive checked with a long thin screwdriver. wierd thing is l removed header and turned crank by hand. motor at tdc only #2 valves are open. and not 2,3 like it should and each full revolution valves are opening but only single cylinder at a time instead of 2
Not all 4 valves in each cylinder will be open. You need to understand how the 4 stroke cycle works. On a Honda 4 cylinder engine with a firing order of 1-3-4-2 @ TDC all 4 valves are closed on 1 & 4, Exhaust valves on #2 should be partially open and the intake valves on #3 should be partially open. At least this is how I remember it.
The 4 strokes are
1 = Intake stroke - Intake valves are open
2 = Compression stroke - All 4 valves are closed
3 = Power stroke - All 4 valves are still closed
4 = Exhaust stroke - Exhaust valves are opened
Now depending on the cam design there may be some Intake & Exhaust valve overlap between stroke #4 & #1 but for the sake of simplicity this is how a 4 stroke works.
The 4 strokes are
1 = Intake stroke - Intake valves are open
2 = Compression stroke - All 4 valves are closed
3 = Power stroke - All 4 valves are still closed
4 = Exhaust stroke - Exhaust valves are opened
Now depending on the cam design there may be some Intake & Exhaust valve overlap between stroke #4 & #1 but for the sake of simplicity this is how a 4 stroke works.



nice work