Alright I have an F20b and i am aware that the F20b comes with stock type S cams which are the best from oem. My question is what is the best Cam setup if you wish to be all motor. Who makes the best cams? Skunk 2 stage 2Cams? or brian Crower? also what would be the best valve and spring setup?

 

nobody??? H22 setups work just the same the F20b is just a 2.0 version of the h22 with 11:1 compression

 

Im still trying to figure out about the bottom end. Can I just buy over sized pistons for a sleeved h22 and bore out my block to match? And if an F20b has high compression and type s cam profiles, why is their a horsepower difference in the specs between auto and 5 speed trans engines? It might be the fuel injectors and throttle body. The TB that came on my engine was tiny.

 

go on to wikipedia it gives you bore diamaters and specs between the two engines and yeah i have no idea what the differences is between auto and manual f20bs are.

 

Cam info???? anyone???? there has got to be more people on here with an f20b

 

im currently rebuilding my all motor f20b, stickin with stock cams and might just go with stronger springs and retainers. just for a lil assurance, but my bottom eng is getting bored .25 over and worked a bit. and the diff between auto and 5 spd is in an auto you dont have full control over gears and shift points plus the main thing is a torque converter is alot heavier than a flywheel that goes with a 5 spd, plus the ecus are tuned differently and the trottlebodys on the same engine whether auto or 5spd are the same size same with injectors. check out this site for most of your f20b needs, http://store.autodynamics-honda.com/index.html . and if you type in pcb into the search it will bring up mostly f20b parts. good luck

 

Thank you my good man

 

im using f20b for 94 accord do you think ill need to upgrade injectors if i am doing basic bolt ons and tuned p28 nothing to bottom end and i autodynamics says its out of stock on f20b gasket set so what will i do about that call up golden eagle i prefer oem replacement and defiantly don wanna use cometic some help plz

 

the h22a4 headgasket is exactly the same, note that h22a1 and h22a4 are totally different with headgaskets. you want one for an h22a4. and you should be just fine with stock injectors unless your droppin compression and forced induction. just make sure your tune is legit and not bs, no need for detonation. so how far are you into the build?

 

lets see heres some off the top of my head, uses b16a rod bearings,f23 rod bolts, h22a4 main bearings- headgasket-timing belt and a bunch other various h22a4 parts, b20 crankshaft.

 

What are you talking about there are no b series parts in an f20b(not trying to hate) anyway this is so off topic what kind of aftermarket cam, valve, and spring setups do they make for the f20b that website that you gave was helpful but nothing on it is actually aftermarket if anything oem breaks on my engine I'll be sure to use it

 

the f20b utilizes the b20 crankshaft its exactly the same spec all around, ive had it measured and compared to 10 diff honda cranks. what are you trying to accomplish, cause if you want better pistons and rods your gonna have to get custom made for it no if ands or buts. the head you can interchange any h22 aftermarket valvetrain with. and like i said bout the crank being same as b20 that you can pick up a performance b20 crank from brian crower.

 

B20 crankshaft in an F20B? Not true. I have a built from the ground up sleeved F20B. I had custom pistons made for it as well as a set of rods which required proper measurements for everything, that's my credentials to speak on this. I have a build thread in the All-Motor section. F20B stroke is 88mm vs 89mm B20. B20B main journals are the same size as B16 main journals which are way smaller than the 55mm mains in an F20B so how a B20 crank, with an 89mm stroke and smaller mains, would work in an F20B is beyond imagination. No offense, but why would you post something that is so blatantly false? It would in no way even work it wouldnt even bolt down, the rod journals are the only thing the same, but the rods (if you used the stock ones) would stick 1mm out of the hole.

Intake valves are smaller by 1mm, and if you have an auto version you will have the small TB (smaller than stock H22s) if you had a manual it would be the same size as the Type R throttle body (62mm)

If you want all of this info, go to the Hybrid section. All is well-documented and all in one thread. Or ask me

As for cams its been proven (even on USDM H22s with 10:1 compressions) that Pro1 cams are a great choice. But i would go with Pro2 on the F20B, which can take advantage with its higher compression. Best to use the Skunk2 springs and if you want to the retainers as well. You can only use the exhaust valves if you really decided to, because the only way you could get away with using the 35mm H22 intake valves (i dont know why Skunk2 lists these valves for both motors) is of course rework the head for those valves, but you would have to get into the pistons valve reliefs (Since i had custom pistons made, i actually told CP to design the valve reliefs based on the cam profile i wanted to use (Pro3) but ended up using Pro2. Just use stock valves if you dont want to get into all that

 

well as i posted this is what i was shown at the machine shop so that would mean either the machinist mixed up his engine codes or grabbed the wrong crank, i never once stated it know it all about it, not saying you said that but just have to put it out there. now hearing this makes me second guess the machinist, and worries me on the build.

 

i will start my build thread as soon as i level up in intelligence enough to figure out how to post my pics. As for my build i got the head off right now tryin to figure out where too find some 29mm f20 valves to replace since some idiot at school took them a grinded less then fifty percent off the valve margin. Thanks for help on headgasket. I read that there is suppose to be small differences but if your running it and it works thats all i need. im plan on running obd1 distributor to make wiring less of a hassle. Phearable tech rep said i could use 310 high impedance injectors don know about clips. engine has come along way since i order it from Tiger Japanese. It seriously looked like they unearthed the engine from salt and mud and shipped it to me and mileage was questionable after looking at valves and seats but ill do what it takes to make it run worth a **** hopefully it all pays off.

 

here is a collection of random pics the crank bolt was ridiculous to remove some old japanese man on top of a mountain making samurai swords must have forged the bolt into the crank

 

haha i know exactly what you mean bout the crank bolts, they have a tendency to tighten themselves like fan clutches. its part of the reason i ran for 6 months without a timing cover at one point.

 

wow dirty eh, idk where your located but i got mine from jdmenginezone.com, i actually drove from where i live in PA to new jersey seeing it was only and hour and half to get there and picked one up for 500 cash, came with ecu and extra valve cover. cant beat that. when i got it out of the where house it looked like it came outta the show room lol thankfully they take care of their engines there i looked around abit and noticed all looked really nice. the owner told me if he gets one that looks like its been at the bottom of the barrel he ships it back. good to know. i will try and post my mild build as well seein as there is limited info on these builds. and not many people do them cause they are scared.

 

i got a h22a4 head with stage 1 blox camshafts crower valvetrain i paid three fifty for with skunk2 intake mani and arp bolts guy did a build but ran into piston rings issues and decided to go back stock. was going to swap it directly on the block but i didnt want to run into any issues in the combustion chamber. I emailed Bernard last night from autodynamics. He said he should get in head gasket set in the middle of year. I don know what ill decide to do about headgasket. I guess ill will try h22a4 headgasket. Gotta have it swapped in my accord before import alliance this year since i only live an hour away. My next parts ill order when i get my school check at beginning of march is: 70mm omni power tb.
Whale dick cold air meagen racing header and 3in exhaust as well mfactory oil cooler and catch can. 310 rc injectors. Few other small things things that cost a fortune. ill also have to find new 29mm valves and get head reconditioned since all the tools at our school to do it are from are old drug addicted redneck teacher who did shoddy work on 350 chevys all day.

 

i just have the basics lol, ive got the .25 overbore pistons and rings on their way, then grabbin block guard and all bearings, arp headstuds,arp main studs f23 race rod bolts, i was going to drop compression and throw a turbo but too much money as it is

 

yeah my teacher actually gave me the garret for doing a auto to manual on a civic but im not running it i just want a reliable NA build hoping for 210whp

 

same here but im hopin for a little more when im done, plus more torque, i dont think it wil be that hard to accomplish also doing the balance shaft elimination.

 

yeah supposed to gain 8hp i need to look into that post some pics of yo build

 

Thank you deleon now that I know what I needed to know this thread can die away Ill be sure to make a build thread when I tear apart my f20b head next winter

 

my email is danyo655@gmail.com let me know whats up with those rods deleon.