So guys. im kind of at a stand still terms of performance. I have a 97 with a 98 Spec Type R Swap from HMO. Should i boost? SC OR TURBO or Go all motor? just do something little to it. Its sort of my daily. i drive it at least 4 times a week. i want at least 200+ to the wheels.. soo suggestions anyone.. set ups would be recommended. the car is stock with a Victor X intake mani.. it came with the car.. but ya. let me know interested in what you guys have to say.

 

TURBO!

End of thread

 

Upgrade the brakes, tires, and suspension and sign up for a HPDE.

 

can you say turbo!
all motor waist of money!
jrsc-(jackson supercharger) waist of money!
you want 200hp build a n.a setup your limit will be around 220hp if done right! your gonna spend more than $2,300 though.
you want 230-240hp get a jrsc setup! @6-9psi on a stock motor with bolt ons thats what your looking at.
you want 300-450hp get a turbo kit end of story!

 

All motor is not a waste of money! It's for the love of it.

But to each his own. Turbo is the easiest route to be fast!

 

Isn't turboing an R a bad idea cause high compression?

 

I thought they were only around 10.*:1

 

Pretty sure the JDM Spec R is 11:1

 

its 11:1...turbo that stock motor w/out changing the pistons and you'll spend $2300 REAL QUICK!

 

not totally accurate

with a good tuner you can boost an 11:1 engine with no trouble. you'll just use less pressure and less timing. many people have made 300-350whp engines with various turbos on stock itr engines. in fact i have a precision 5031e for my itr that's going on in the next month or so. somewhere around 7psi with that turbo on a stock itr will make 280-300whp

 

I can respect that, the only problem is that I don't believe $2300 will get you a proper turbo setup and good tune!...and you know that can't be had for $2300 either!

 

oh hell no, to do a turbo correctly and tune it right you'll spend over $3000 pretty fast

figure: inline pro manifold $495
precision 5031 or 5431 $600
obd1 ecu $100
boomslang obd2 to obd1 $100
chip for crome $75
tune $350
intercooler $150
intercooler pipes $150
tial wastegate and blow off valve $500
mishimoto x full size radiator $280
slim fan $100-180
precision 650cc injectors $280
walbro 255 fuel pump 100
catch can setup $100
exedy stage 2 clutch with matching exedy flywheel $600
aem wideband $180
aem boost gauge $140

that's basically $4000-4500 with no labor for the entire package you would need to make 280-350whp reliably on an itr

it's also why you hear "i turbo'd my car for 1000 bucks and it only lasted two weeks before i blew it up"

 

you guys are way over your head! first off a jdm or usdm itr engine can easily be boosted stock! its all in the tune and health of the motor!, iv had a 11.6 high comp gsr before with a jrsc and also boosted a usdm itr engine with a built race version jrsc setup! im about to boost another stock us itr motor on a belt driven turbo @8psi, and you can easily find a used turbo kit that can meet your hp needs and still have money left! i just found a complete rebuilt greddy turbo kit for $900! that will easily hit 300hp on my ITR motor with bolt ons! or yours!

 

Also, keep in mind you live in Cali like I do and cops here suck. Pop the hood and see that turbo and you are off to the ref..........

 

Considering the fact that you already have an ITR motor, its not too hard to squeeze 200whp out of it.

A good quality header/test pipe/exhaust along with more fuel/Hondata, and you are there pretty easy. If you want a bit more, some Skunk2 Stage 2 Tuner cams would be great.

It all depends on what you want. To turbo an 11.0:1 compression motor is not bad, despite all the "myths" that you might have heard. A good tuner will be able to tune it without a problem.

 

300hp out of that little turbo is a push, more so with the restrictive manifold and small downpipe that it comes with. you also still do not have

1: a blow off valve $230
2. any real way to tune it $500
3. the correct injectors to even attempt to make that kind of power $300
4. a wideband in the car $180
5. a boost gauge $140

add in the above at $1300 and you still have a fairly cheap turbo setup.....kind of.....i left off the clutch which would be $400 for an exedy 2 or $600 with the matching flywheel. you're also probably going to need an intercooler in order to keep intake temps down which means more plumbing and more cash.

imo that turbo is too small for an itr engine which really does better with a t3/t4 50 or 57 trim with the .63ar

 

... not really to get a true 200whp it takes a bit to go NA even with an 11:1 itr motor just cause the little paper that comes with it says 200hp doesnt mean youll get 200 on a dyno itll probably pull 170-180ish and pulling 20 hp will take more then i/h/e even cams and and a tune will be hitting maybe mid to high 190s.. definatly will take some money and work to hit a true 200whp on NA..

turbo is definatly the easiest way to get higher hp but it will cost to do it right at the least youll be lookin at 3000.. peak boost makes a good kit but i would recomend going to a performance shop and talking with them to do it the best way the right way

 

hell yea....i have a turbo car now but i WANT to build a NA car sooo bad and am starting the build now

 

so basically everyone is saying turbo lol

 

You obviously did NOT read my post. Read it clearly.

a "good quality header/test pipe/exhaust/cams and an ITR can and WILL produce 200whp" .EASILY. I know the difference between BHP and whp. I built a couple myself.

 

the cams is the magic word here

without them i don't think it could be done unless the air is -10 outside and you have a lucky pull or loose correction factor. jun3s and pro1s have both done 200whp on otherwise stock itrs, that's even with the stock 4-1 header. with a nasty header you can milk a few more hp

 

How is all motor a waste of money? They produce much more reliable power and provide HUGE increases in torque vs just a turbo. Now if you upgraded all of the internals and THEN threw on a turbo, you'd get reliable results and INSANE power.

 

my buddy made 215whp on stock jdm itr engine with skunk2 cam and spring/retainers.
that is on dynojet. every dyno reads different.

i/h/e and a cam with a tune is more reliable hp. but agreed to all, turbo is best hp for the money. high compression takes less boost (psi) to make same hp as low compression. but its more risk to detonate if isnt tuned correctly.

 

If you're in Carson, CA, there are plenty of tuners local to you that will be more specific to your needs and give you a good price range..

I'd say an OBD I conversion, Skunk2 Pro 1 Cams/springs/retainers, 310cc injectors, fuel pump, and a good tune will get you over 200whp with that setup, if you already have a good I/H/E setup. I highly recommend a good tune with the Victor-X manifold you already have installed.

 

not even close, turbos basically simulate increasing displacement by adding cylinder pressure. there is no all motor b series in the world that makes 400whp and 250+ft/lb of torque. there are however completely stock GSR's that have done this for awhile

granted 400whp may only make it X number of passes at the strip if you hammed on it constantly but i guy could dial back to 300whp and live for years.

to make 300whp all motor you would need a 2.2L stroker, lots of compression, a custom intake manifold, great header and huge cams. this isn't isn't the cornerstone of reliability since you'll have a high redline and cams that put a lot of wear on the guides. endyn has made one before on a b series....actually that may have been 300 crank hp but it's still nasty for all motor. the price? about $15,000

all motor builds are great for autocross but that's really their only strong suit. a well designed turbo system will rape on the road course and on the drag strip