So today i installed a pssword JDm intake on my 2001 Integra LS. It was running fine and everything, drove it around 16 miles from where i installed it and by the time I got home, it sounds like it's not getting enough gas.

I can hear/feel the exhaust and the air is coming out in in sputters. I also have a check engine light on now. I tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes after I put the stock intake back on. Still have the same problem. Whenever I try to move the car, it feels like there isn't enough power to move it.

Please, please help.

 

If anyone's a traveling mechanic, that would help too.

 

Fuel filter maybe? Can you check your fuel pressure? Or maybe you have a vacuum leak.

 

The wierd thing is, my car was completely fine and running perfectly before I put the intake on. Do you really think it's the fuel filter?

Im not very good with cars so I dont know how to check the fuel pressure.

How do I know if I have a vacuum leak? Where do I look for that?

 

Is this a sign of something very serious or is this a normal occurance when you mess with intakes? If anyone has any advice at all i would greatly appreciate it.

 

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing!

 

Go through and make sure everything you removed is reinstalled properly and that the filter is letting air through. It maybe possible you left some plastic wrapping in the tube or something?? Hard to be positive. Intake installation is pretty straight forward..

 

check what the check engine light is for

 

Could be any number of things that you had to take off and switch...go back and check everything.

Might be as simple as a nicked o-ring on an injector (do they have them? lol).

 

you definately need to start off by checking the cel code 1st. Considering it wasn't on before you messed w/ the intake.

have the ignition off...passenger side under the glovebox you'll find a blue connector w/ two wires coming out of it...get a paperclip, bend it into a 'U' shape and jump the two wires using the paperclip...turn your ingintion over 1 click and watch your cel light...count the long blinks and the short ones...(example) LONG LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT=CODE 23....LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT SHORT pause LONG LONG LONG LONG SHORT SHORT SHORT= code 14 & code 43

Start there first


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ej1 89 b16a sir 1 gsr hydo trans I/H/E chipped and tuned p28*SOLD*
ej6 92 b16a sir 2 ls hydro trans I/H/E virgin jdm p30 ecu -Daily D!

 

please tell me you took the plastic bag off the filter.

 

^

Check your CEL. It will tell you the way.

 

OP has a 2001, OBD-IIb Integra. A scanner is required to pull the code. Most auto parts stores will do it for free, but lately they won't clear the codes for you. You either have to buy parts from them to fix whatever code they pulled, or clear them yourself by pulling the EFI fuse or disconnecting the battery.

 

Went to a mechanic because it was breaking my heart to see my car this way. On the way there, the problem corrected itself but decided to get it checked out anyways. Turns out I had a misfire in one of my cylinders but it wasn't happening anymore.

The mechanic told me that this could be an issue with the valve timing if the valves are tight? Is this a possibility? Could there be any other reason for a misfiring cylinder?

He seems pretty trustworthy but this is my first time at his shop and wanted to get feedback from the trusted Honda-Tech community.

Thanks for all your responses.

Brian

PS. Yes, I took off all the plastic wrapping from the intake, haha. Turns out that the intake would most likely not be the root of my problem.

 

We've been told by corporate to not clear codes. Not sure if it's because local shops will sometimes buy from the store and we don't want to **** off such a steady buyer or if it's because of the customers who think that once the CEL is gone, the car is fixed.

Interestingly enough, customers are allowed to clear the codes in the parking lot using the scan tool.

OP needs to figure out the code though. If his car is anything like my '98 Civic then he can still pull codes using the two pin connector, but using a code scanner will give him a much more detailed diagnosis.

Codes scanners are available to rent at some auto parts stores. At Autozone here it's $150 IIRC, but you get all your money back when you return the tool.

 

Make sure you have good spark on all cylinders.

Do a power balance test.

Do a compression test on all cylinders.

Do a leak down test after you perform the compression test. If one cylinder is reading low compression, this will allow you to pin point the cause.

This video will give you an idea of how to diagnose a cylinder misfire. -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT...&feature=feedu

You will learn quite a bit if you watch it all the way through. Good Luck

 

Thanks for the responses. I will ask the mechanic if he can perform these tests when I get my valves adjusted. Thanks again HT.

Brian

 

How do valves become tight after changing an Intake manifold?

 

He didn't change the IM, he changed the air intake itself (tube and filter).

For a misfire I would first replace spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor. That's normal stuff that probably needs to be done anyway if it hasn't in the past 2-3 years.

 

So dumb. O'Reilly won't even pull CEL codes, and the AutoZone nearest me will read the code but will not clear it. Won't even let me do it.

 

Bizarre. Maybe we're just trusting, but we'll let people use the scan tool in the parking lot even.

It sucks for us too because we honestly get very little information from corporate regarding a lot of our policies. So the customers ask us and we can only really depend on our own theories or rumors that float around the district.

Even those Rewards Cards we hand out? We can't tell you much about them beyond what we read from the corporation supplied fliers (also available to customers) or what customers and other employees have told us. Never did we get any literature about purchases have to have so much time in between in order to count as points; we have to figure it out on our own.

 

Verdict:

The spark wires (the end that goes into the distributor) were bad. In conjunction with the tight/loose valves led to the misfire in one cylinder. Got the valves adjusted and replaced the wires with NGK wires. Everythings good now.

No, the valves didn't need adjusting because of the intake. It was just overdue. Luckily it was done in time.

Now all I need to do is get a new water pump and tighten the timing belt and my car is "perfect" (according to mechanic).

Thanks for everything.

 

If you are going to replace the water pump, replace the timing belt. Its added insurance. The last thing you want is for it to break.

Do you know how many miles are on the current timing belt?

The $40 or $50 for a new one is well worth it.

 

Oh yeah, definitely doing them at once as well as replacing the cam seals. Going to cost a lot, but worth it for the peace of mind.

 

Its very possible for something to take a sh*t after you replace/swap something totally different out. I went and changed my timing belt and water pump on my teg and when I went to go back it out of the garage when I was done the clutch took a sh*t so I then have to replace the clutch.