I have an 85 CRX HF. The car is new to me, so I don't know the previous maintenance records, repairs, etc. The car has been sitting for a while until I picked it up.

Problems:
*The clutch slips quite bad. I don't think this is an adjustment issue, more of a worn out clutch problem.
*transmission whirs a little mainly in 1st gear, I think 2nd it pretty quiet (kind of sounds like a super charger/reverse gear).
*There is a HORRIBLE sound when I let off the throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. It does not do it with the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed in). The sound is very faint in the other gears, as well as just barely audible when I begin to press the clutch pedal in while driving.

Additional notes:
*Car sounds fine at idle
*it seems to only happen when in gear

I'm worried it is the input shaft bearing? It seems like the symptoms are crossed between input shaft and throwout bearings.

Thanks in advance,
-Alex

 

A friend of mine that was helping me work on the car said that at idle, there was a slight rattling noise, and it went away when the clutch was pressed in. Not sure if that helps...

-alex

EDIT: https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43307562 looks like its the input shaft bearing?

 

I have this same problem! I recently bought a 93 Civic and it has a rubbing/knocking noise when I speed up. Its mostly only in 1st and 2nd gear. Remember when you were a kid and you put a card in your bike spokes so it sounded like a motor? Thats the best way I can describe it! The car sat for about 6 months.

 

replace input shaft bearing and replace clutch as well while youre in there. Problem solved. I had same issues, if noise disappears when clutch disengaged that is a perfect sign for bad input shaft bearing.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm finally getting around to doing this. What all do I need bearing and seal wise while I have the tranny apart?

I was looking at majestic honda:


Looks like #8 is the input shaft bearing? And I should probably get the #13 and #10 oil seals? How about the #9 bearing?

 

I would change all the main bearings and seals since you will have it open. #9 looks like the Counter Shaft bearing. Inspect the rest of unit before ordering any parts so you don't order twice and make sure everything is still available! While you have the trans out you can check the condition of the clutch and components.

**edited!**

 

According to that diagram: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...CLUTCH+HOUSING

13 is an oil seal, and the only bearings are 8 and 9. And when you say main bearings, to you mean on the gear sets themselves? I'm probably going to have a shop do all the work inside the case as i have never been inside one and I don't want to ruin anything (I'm also struggling to find 1st gen or HF specific DIY/walk throughs. Unless you think it will be a simple task, I'd rather only replace what is broken/easy to get to so that I can save on shop labor.

Taking into account what I just said, should I only get #8 and #13? I'm thinking I'm leaking a little trans oil so i figured #13 (oil seal) couldn't hurt.

Or am I getting confused with the diagram; looks like #8 is accessible from the outside of the trans?

Thank again,
-Alex

 

I meant #9. Countershaft and Mainshaft top and bottom bearings would be the main bearings..also wise to replace differential bearings as well. #8 is not accessible from the outside of the trans. I would get the input shaft seal, shift shaft seal as well as the differential seals. Just cheap insurance! Get the trans cracked open, check it all out and make a decision from there.

 

Well I just got off the phone with the shop and it looks like I'm doing this myself.

I'll be ordering the parts soon, but majestic is saying it will take over 2 weeks to get it in. I'm going to start with #8 (input shaft bearing?) and its corresponding oil seal #13. My transmission appears to be leaking fluid, so should I get #10 as well or is it more than likely leaking from the case seal?

Thanks again. As far as the procedure, where might I be able to find a more detailed description? I know the most important part is to remove the shift mechanism lock bolt inside the clutch housing (I think), and everything else is similar to other crx transmissions?

Should I look into any other bearings or seals?

 

Yeah I am sure its special order parts for your trans. I would get the seals I mentioned just to be on the safe side..so get both differential seals and 12 and 13.

 

ok, I ordered 13 and will be picking 8 up locally at a bearing distributer shop.

What is 12 called? majestic doesn't offer it, so I will be getting it at rockauto if possible. And where can I get the differential seals/do they have a different name?

Thanks again, sorry I'm being so nit-picky...it's my first time

Feel free to PM me.

 

12 is called the shift shaft seal. Differential seals are also called axle seals in some catalogs.

 

ok, I found the shift shaft seal:


but it doesn't look like the one in that diagram I posted, but the shift shaft repair sleeve does??:



Also, I assume the diff seals are the left and right drive axle seals? which can be replaced without removing the transmission correct?
right

left


EDIT: and I assume my fluid leak is from the input shaft bearing/seal and the oil leaking is not clear (tranny and engine oil are both fresh and clear) because it is soaking up all the clutch dust which turns it black. Would also explain why my clutch is slipping.

 

Last two are gonna be your diff seals... The shift shaft seal will look like a tophat like on this page:

http://www.redlinemotive.com/replace...iftrodseal.asp

 

Thanks a bunch. Ordered all the parts. Hopefully this will go over pretty easy. I'm under the impression however that for the 1st gen (D15?) tranny, there is no shift mechanism lock bolt, but you push down on the 5th gear collar instead?

 

I'm having some difficulty. And I'm not sure if it's because I'm doing something wrong, or if it's because I'm just reading wrong.

The manual says "unscrew the connecting bolts and separate the transaxle case from the flywheel case. Do this by lifting the casing evenly from the housing."

the next step says "Drive out the differential oil seal and remove the circlip from the transmission casing."

My confusion is, when it says separate the transaxle casing, does it mean completely remove it, or just loosen it then undo the circlip.

This picture shows how far up I can get the case:


Should I remove the marked circlips BEFORE pulling up on the trans case (when I pull up on it I can see the shafts turn slightly before it stops. Is this just things about to slide off, or are those circlips holding it all together)?:

 

PM'd you

 

Synchro: thanks! I replied to your PM, but i figured it out in the mean time. It just needed a little tap with a hammer. To clean the gears and cases, what fluid would you recommend? Kerosene? I heard lighter fluid (the stuff girls put on charcoal to light it) also works.

On to the next question...

Do I need to worry about the wear on my case or my input / mainshaft? The bearing had no race and therefore loose *****. The inner piece was actually cracked through on one spot. Will the new seal take up the "slack?" I'd hate to put it all together and ruin my brand new clutch with oil. (the current one was ruined with oil)

The change in color in this one appears/feels like the input shaft was rubbing the case:


There is also wear on the input shaft itself which I am more worried about as it affects the sealing surface I believe:

 

I've always used brake clean to clean any transmissions I rebuilt.

 

Does anyone know where I can get a new input shaft? Will any 1st gen crx input shaft work or do I need an HF specif one? JB weld is my next option....

 

HF specific IIRC. If it still fits tight in the new bearing don't worry about it. If it doesn't take it a machine shop and have them turn it down and press a sleeve on it.

 

It's loose not tight. If it were tight it wouldn't be as big of a problem. The only way I could think to repair it is to weld a bead around the whole shaft where the bearing sits, then put it on a lathe to bring it down to spec, however I don't know anyone who could do that welding. The other option is JB weld or find a new one.

-Alex

 

I wouldn't weld on it, you'll probably soften it up pretty bad. JB weld mostly likely wont work very well. I edited my last post so it makes sense now btw.

 

What material would you use as a sleeve? Would the machine shop know what to do? I found some "input shaft repair sleeves" on rockauto, but it looks like they are only designed to cover the oil seal portion. And I'd have to have the whole raised section turned down to .8610 (the bearing section is already at .8617 due to wear). However when I pushed the sleeve on, I believe the sleeve would now only cover the bear part and leave the oil part loose...

Here are the dimensions:
Redi-Sleeve; Shaft Size Min=0.861", Shaft Size Max=0.866", Width=0.315", Overall Width=0.472", Flange Outer Diameter=1.058", Installation Depth=1.813"

Is the depth how much length of the shaft it covers? Or is that the width?

Thanks again,
-Alex

 

Machine shop will know what to do with it. I'd say they'd most likely use steel (you might be able to get away with brass though) And yes the depth is the length of shaft the sleeve covers.