Replaced so far:
Ignition switch
Distributor
Main relay

it will start and run for like 1-2 seconds, then die immediately. Even if I hold the key it doesnt stay running, plus its a brand new ign switch. Also it wont start everytime just sometimes. I cant figure out what the hell is wrong with this thing.

 

Anything??

 

There are 3 thing an engine needs to run, Air, Fuel, & Spark. There is where i would start then check these, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel filter, EGR valve could be stuck open, could be any # of things. Check Fast Idle Thermal Valve. I would also check vacuum lines.
Joe

 

Fuel pump works fine, I kicks on. I have air obviously... the filter is clean. I cracked the bango bolt and fuel is fine. I have spark its a brand new disty wires plugs cap rotor.

Are there any other things that commonly go wrong with these vehicles?

Not being a dick but I would post without check for air fuel spark.... its common sense. As i said the car does START but wont stay running.

 

Dude I bet you should check fuel, air and spark... you will DEFINITELY find your problem. ****ing idiot.


Anyways;

Jmb106; I would like to ask a few questions, "pick your brain" if I might...You seem like a pretty knowledgeable guy, so here goes.


Could you please explain to me how an exhaust gas recirculation valve, could cause a motor to stop running, not combust fuel, and not create energy? Oh wait it wouldn't, because it is an "accessory valve" that purely recirculates exhaust gases. ****ing *****.

Could you also explain to me how the Fast idle thermo valve could cause a car not to run? The only ****ing thing that it affects is the IDLE...which makes it FASTER, dependent on the temperature of the coolant (THERMO). Pretty ****ing self explanatory, so a valve that is open, and bumps the idle until the car warms up, is going to cause the car not to run at all?

Please use your ****ing heads for something more than a hat rack...

 

Again like every other fourm people will post useless things. The main thing I am looking for here are other common problems. Ive replaced the disty, ICM, Wires, plugs, main realy, Ign switch.

What are other common problems that can keep hondas from running. It obviously have fuel spark and air... because it starts but then dies. So something is telling it to stop running.

 

The engine might be getting enough fuel from the pump priming to start but might not have enough fuel pressure to stay running.

I understand what you say about having fuel but you don't know what pressure you have,easiest thing to try is to get some starter fluid and spray that into your intake(best with 2 people) and if you can keep the car running on that then it is probably an issue with getting enough fuel to stay running.

Are you getting a CEL and if you are what codes are you getting?

 

No CEL codes at all, I will definitely try that man. Ill get back to you with it.

 

Lol @ PGTMatt, Dont break the keyboard killa. Did you get the new ignition switch "married" to the ecu? I cant remember if the motor will crank with a new one but I know it wont run.

 

Pgtmatt sorry if i offend you. Obviously i did. The OP didn't say anything about checking spark or fuel. And to answer your ?'s i have had a car not stay running w/ a stuck open EGR valve, start and die! And Your answer to # 2 is you are absolutely right! That one is on me! Matt you seem like a pretty knowledgeable guy maybe in the future you could use more than two words to describe someone "****ing idiot".

 

OP, can you elaborate more on "starts and then dies"? When you say it "runs for 1-2 seconds," how is it running? Video would help in this instance.

Have you tried temporarily disconnecting the exhaust manifold from the rest of the exhaust to eliminate the possibility of a clogged exhaust? Have you run a compression test?

Wow, who the **** are you?! Internet tough guy much? Looks like you've already got this problem solved!

 

Basically what it does is the following;

- It will start and run for literally 1-3 seconds. It revs up comes down to idle then dies.
- It you immediately try and restart it, it will misfire spit and sputter then die.
- ONE time about a week ago it started up and ran for about 5 mins then died.
Things I have replaced, these parts are BRAND NEW

- Distributor, ICM, Cap, Rotor, Ignition switch, Main Relay.

Questions: What do you mean the car wont start if I put a new ignition switch on it? Its just the electrical contacts, it has no serial code or anything.

Even with the new ignition switch I can start it and it will die the same exact way. I am completely stumped.

Things that make no sense at all:
- Why would I compression test it? It has started up and ran COMPLETELY fine for 5 mins, also when i start it and it does the normal thing it will run fine for 3 seconds. I dont see how the compression test would tell me anything at all.
- Another thing again as the sentence above starts I really dont think its catalytic converter it starts and runs fine, its extremely cold here I dont want to get on the ground. It also doesnt explain the fact that the car has ZERO throttle response.

 

Beat up the beat.

 

I was under the impression you replaced the entire ignition lock cylinder with the switch. Ignore post. Will it run with the throttle open?

 

this is a big point! check your coil pack. it is likely that the coil pack may be bad and not giving a strong enough spark to stay running, it could also be an alternator being that the battery kicks the car over and then the alternator takes over and if the alternator is bad, it wont give the power needed to keep the car running either

edit: clogged cat could also give you no throttle response issues

 

Well its been sitting for a while so when i try and start it, I have it being jumped by my buddys truck, so I dont think an altenator is an issue as of right now. Is there a way to test a coil pack? Or do i have to buy a new one?

Even if i try to start it while pumping the gas or holding it open it does not respond to anything.

 

there are plenty of ways to check the coil pack. via a volt meter, test light, or even as simply pull a plug wire off and stick and insulated handle screwdriver in and hold the metal part to the body of the car. yellow spark means weak spark. blue is good (this is done while someone cranks the car) do not touch the metal part of the screw driver.

if it is a spark issue then holding the pedal down wont do a thing.

 

 

Targa there is nothing wrong with it being jumped off my friends truck, that battery is starting to die from it sitting for so long. There is no face palm here, Im trying to fix my accord so if you have nothing to say with fixing my car stop qouting my message and drive into a pole, seriously why are all fourms filled with e thugs.

I thought there might be a specific resistance for the coil pack i asked wrong, i have checked spark by pulling the plugs wires and sticking a screw driver laying it against the head, it has a strong blue spark. So thats not the problem then.

 

i'm not sure of the specific resistance but i'm sure you can find it either here of in a manual. check your alternator if you haven't already

 

If the battery is shorted internally, the car will not stay running as the electrical load fluctuates.

I've had a number of cars with shorted batteries that would crank and start with a booster box but would not continue running on their own if any input was made, despite the fully-charged booster remaining connected.

You showed up here expecting help, but you left a lot of pertinent information out of the original post that was only revealed later.

You can leave the insults at home. If you knew what you were doing, you'd have had it running already. I'm not the one asking for help here; my cars run just fine.

 

my car just went out too hope you find out what it is

 

Check your main relay. Here's the test to do it.https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/checking-main-relay-pics-2535047/

 

Sorry, didn't see that you already replaced the main relay. My 1991 Honda Accord used to do the same thing. It ended out being the fuel filter. The car would start and stall almost immediately. Hope This Helps!

 

I would check fuel pressure and the filter, via a flow test. It sounds as if you are getting enough fuel to flow when you turn the key, and fill the system, but once it starts, the pump is not delivering enough fuel to keep it running.
A bad or plugged catalytic would not cause the engine to die in 5 seconds. A bad alternator would just allow the battery to discharge, unless it had a severe internal short that pulled all the juice in the world, thus reducing voltage to the ignition system. [highly unlikely] To test that, disconnect the alternator and try to start the engine. Should have no impact if the alternator is not defective.
Get a timing light, and have someone operate the light while starting the engine. If the light flashes until the engine stops, slowing down the flashes as the engine slows down, then you likely have the fuel problem described at the start of this post.
tom