91 Accord....Rotor question??
Hello All...
I was attempting to change my sister's brakes last night on her 91 accord and I noticed her rotors need replacing. (She let the pads get down to the backing plate and it ate that rotor for lunch!)
Anyhooo...As I read the shop manual, it said that I have to loosen the lower control arm ball-joint and remove the CV joint, then remove the rotor hub assembly!!!
Is there an easier way to do this?! I have changed many a brake and rotor and this is, by FAR, the most idiotic thing I have ever seen!
Anybody have any experience with changing the rotors on a 91 accord?
Thanks in advance!
I was attempting to change my sister's brakes last night on her 91 accord and I noticed her rotors need replacing. (She let the pads get down to the backing plate and it ate that rotor for lunch!)
Anyhooo...As I read the shop manual, it said that I have to loosen the lower control arm ball-joint and remove the CV joint, then remove the rotor hub assembly!!!
Is there an easier way to do this?! I have changed many a brake and rotor and this is, by FAR, the most idiotic thing I have ever seen!
Anybody have any experience with changing the rotors on a 91 accord?
Thanks in advance!
This will tell you how to do it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=223096
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=223096
This will tell you how to do it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=223096
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=223096
I appreciate the help and all, but can anyone else verify this before I do it?
buy new wheel bearings while you are at it. save yourself some grief. they may bust when hammering off but its a good opportunity to replace them while it's convenient.
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That's not what the shop manual says to do...I don't want to destroy anything.
I appreciate the help and all, but can anyone else verify this before I do it?
I appreciate the help and all, but can anyone else verify this before I do it?
[Modified by SOHCArchangel, 10:00 AM 9/25/2002]
sorry dude thats what it was designed to do: to be taken back to the dealer to get *** raped on parts and service
I read the above thread and I think I am going to stay the course and acquire a two-jaw joint puller and do it that way. "Slide-Hammer" way bothers me a little.
We'll see how it goes....
just a word of advise, it will go alot easier when you unbolt the hub from the rotor first before you start banging away
oh and take the time to remove the 'heat sheilds' behind the rotor all they do is trap heat and allow you chew through pads/rotors much quicker
[Modified by SOHCArchangel, 10:15 AM 9/25/2002]
oh and take the time to remove the 'heat sheilds' behind the rotor all they do is trap heat and allow you chew through pads/rotors much quicker
[Modified by SOHCArchangel, 10:15 AM 9/25/2002]
just a word of advise, it will go alot easier when you unbolt the hub from the rotor first before you start banging away
Thanks though.
just a word of advise, it will go alot easier when you unbolt the hub from the rotor first before you start banging away
I don't think I'm gonna try the Banging method...I'll feel better if I follow the shop manual directions
Thanks though.
I don't think I'm gonna try the Banging method...I'll feel better if I follow the shop manual directions
Thanks though.
I had to take my knuckle assemblys off and have them pressed out at the shop. Many people have used this slide hammer technique successfully so I would suggest trying it first.
just dont flip your lid when you see the bearing come apart in half, this is normal, when reinstalling bolt the rotor to the hub and bang back on until you get afew threads of the axle showing and put the axle nut on and torque down
hub bolts 18/19lb*ft
axle nut is 180 lb feet
you will need a 1/2" breaker bar, 36mm socket, new axle nuts, something to de-stake the axle nut, moly graphite grease, and when you break the axle nut loose have someone stand on the break pedal, i think it was measured once some 1000 lb*ft was necessary to break it loose? i cant remeber but that was the estimate. I hope your strong son, b/c its a fight even for me
hub bolts 18/19lb*ft
axle nut is 180 lb feet
you will need a 1/2" breaker bar, 36mm socket, new axle nuts, something to de-stake the axle nut, moly graphite grease, and when you break the axle nut loose have someone stand on the break pedal, i think it was measured once some 1000 lb*ft was necessary to break it loose? i cant remeber but that was the estimate. I hope your strong son, b/c its a fight even for me
just dont flip your lid when you see the bearing come apart in half, this is normal, when reinstalling bolt the rotor to the hub and bang back on until you get afew threads of the axle showing and put the axle nut on and torque down
hub bolts 18/19lb*ft
axle nut is 180 lb feet
you will need a 1/2" breaker bar, 36mm socket, new axle nuts, something to de-stake the axle nut, moly graphite grease, and when you break the axle nut loose have someone stand on the break pedal, i think it was measured once some 1000 lb*ft was necessary to break it loose? i cant remeber but that was the estimate. I hope your strong son, b/c its a fight even for me
hub bolts 18/19lb*ft
axle nut is 180 lb feet
you will need a 1/2" breaker bar, 36mm socket, new axle nuts, something to de-stake the axle nut, moly graphite grease, and when you break the axle nut loose have someone stand on the break pedal, i think it was measured once some 1000 lb*ft was necessary to break it loose? i cant remeber but that was the estimate. I hope your strong son, b/c its a fight even for me
I already have the axle nut off and everything else is ready to come off. I just got stuck last night when I realized (read the instructions, actually
) what had to happen to get this damn rotor off.I've decided to use the two-jaw method and do it by the book. Once I get the whole Rotor/Hub assembly off of the car, am I still going to have to bang the chit out of it to get it to come apart? Any suggestions on that? Some people said to use a lead pipe and a big 'ol hammer.
Also, do I really need to buy NEW axle nuts..or can I just use the ones that I took off? They seem to be in good condition.
I am still absolutely stunned that it has taken this much effort to change these rotors!

Thanks again for the input! More is always welcome!
w00t!
im not looking foreward to doing my rotors again, but ive done it so many times i know the drill, but seriously i hate spending so much time on something that should take no more than 20-30 minuites, that is why i will be doing the 1st gen odyssey conversion front and rear to get rid of this hub over rotor trash
im not looking foreward to doing my rotors again, but ive done it so many times i know the drill, but seriously i hate spending so much time on something that should take no more than 20-30 minuites, that is why i will be doing the 1st gen odyssey conversion front and rear to get rid of this hub over rotor trash
what all do you need forthat conversion? just new hubs, bearings, rotors? are all the arms the same?
front and rear hubs bearings, rear caliper bracket, i have the v6 fronts so the brakes in the front are covered for me, i might just need the brackets in the front just in case, oh and i forgot, a new set of wheels, the odyssey is 5-lug
I didn't know that?
You going for new, reman, or used stuff?
Approx cost? (just in parts)
You going for new, reman, or used stuff?
Approx cost? (just in parts)

if i can get the hookup at honda ill go with new, but a lil bug in my cerebrum thinks to get some cnc billet lighweight hubs cut, but thats alot f cost, rotors will be new, just go to majestic and add the numbers up and you will see


