Its off to the body shop next.........
All opinions welcome.

 

 

Lol, looks like you need it ...

 

Daaaaaaammmmmmm

Nice cage

Did you roll it or did you buy it like that?
Can you post a pic of your avatar?
Also did you do any thing to the front end?


[Modified by rolow, 3:08 PM 9/25/2002]

 

The car was rolled before i got my hands on it. Haven't done anything to the body yet. It's going to the body shop next month. I'll try to find my avatar pic.....

 

Now that's some weight reduction to be proud of. Nice set up so far.

 

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why didnt they weld all the way around this mount point for the wheelie bar? the rest looks good

 

what are those metal box looking things that look like the come out under the bumper cover.

And you aren't going to strip the tar before the body shop? (or are they going to do that for you?) Good idea on the steering colum braces. Is that a custom column?

 

That brace wraps all the way around the rear lower arm and goes all the way across conecting the lower arm mounting points.He didnt want to get too close to that bolt so he wrapped it around.Its plenty strong,we picked up the car by the wheelie bars and they didn't budge.

 

those boxes are just holes for the wheelie bars to come through. The body shop is taking out the tar and yes its a custom steering column


[Modified by G-MO, 12:50 PM 9/25/2002]

 

how much did u end up paying for that?

 

$1500 ,full chromoly

 

Did you extend any of the cage bars up into the engine bay,connecting to the strut towers?

 

is 1500 with the wheelie bars??

 

No it doesn't go into the engine bay

yep, complete cage and wheelie bars

 

How would you adjust the height of the wheelie bar wheels off the ground? I see the rod ends and heim joints, but there doesnt seem to be much adjustabilty.

 

The cage looks like it's mig welded...is it?

 

the bolts at the end are threaded well into the bars.It adjusts from 2" down to on the ground. It now sits @ 1/8" off the ground. I'll have to ask my builder about my welds..

 

I like everything except for the wheelie bar adjustments. You need quick releases in the back for return roads and you need to get at them quicker for last second adjustments at the strip. Most guys are making them longer and raising the upper mount location but they will work fine.

 

I agree about the adjustments. I am actually building new wheelie bars on our race car as we speak. I built the old ones back when there wasn't much thought put into them and they have come along way since! The rules state a max. length of 65" from the back bumper...the longer the better = longer wheelbase. Also, stiffness is VERY important. If you can't pick up the back of the car w/o them flexing then they aren't stiff enough. Jerry Bickel sells really good quality parts to assemble the bars with and I would recommend at least getting the wheel housings from them so you can have some adjustment on yours at the track. Your gonna run into a lot of problems like that. Simple things like tire pressure will affect how low to the ground the are. On the upper rods use a left and right heim joint so you can just loosen the jam nuts and turn the bar to adj the bars. It will make your days at the track much easier!! Just some recommendations.


[Modified by tony1, 12:26 AM 9/27/2002]

 

One more thing...where the rear of the cage connects to the car you have it bolted in. The two bolts on the top are screwed into what used to be seat brackets with 10mm bolts, right. You might want to weld that in so it is a little more secure. Remember, stiffness is key!

 

Thanks for all the helpful information....

 

Those are Heim joints on the top and bottom points.They adjust by unbolting and turning the Heim .We have picked the rear of the car with the wheelie bars and the didn't flex one bit.


[Modified by G-MO, 1:28 AM 9/27/2002]

 

Those are heim joints on the bottom bars and clevis joints on the top.

 

You know what,I just noticed the difference.Don't they adjust the same though?Or should i change the top to heim also?