Head bolts and rod bolts are tricky to remove since you cant unbolt it with a torque wrench, and it's been torqued down of course to a spec.
what tool or technique do you use to unbolt head bolts and rod/main bolts?

 

anyone?

 

any inputs?

 

Use a socket no special tools required

 

wouldn't it be hard though and take a lot of effort?
cause i'm removing a head from a long block thats not even mounted or anything it's sitting on a tire

 

Torque wrench just puts it to a certain tightness.Use a bracker bar they will come right out

 

nice.. will regular adapters work?

 

I always pop them loose with a air wrench in sequence.

 

i just use the pole from the jack as a extension

 

Just did this on my dining room floor. You'll need a 14mm/ 12 point socket, extension, wratchet and a breaker bar, thats it. Break them in reverse order 1/4-1/3 turn at a time until you can loosen by hand. The order for install is on here somewhere, just reverse it for taking them out or you might warp the head. That is all.

 

Yep, jack handles make great breaker bars.

 

thanks guys.. also another question.
i have a 95 integra (OBD1), OBD2 gsr head w/itr cams, OBD1 block. you guys have any tips or heads up as of wiring? i'll be using the ODB1 harness so all i need is Obd1 alternator, injectors, and distributor right?

 

yes n obd1 manifold

 

OBD1 manifold?

 

For your wiring, you're right. Just put your OBD1 stuff on.

For the head bolts, as short of an extension on your wrench as you can and use a jack handle or a regular breaker bar to muscle them out. Get a second set of hands to hold the motor, but I've done it by myself a few times. You can try kinda jerking on the handle instead of just pulling.
When you rebuild, get ARP studs. Two reasons. One, they're stronger than OEM bolts and that means they will help prevent your head from lifting and blowing a head gasket. Two, if you take the head off once, you're already saving money since a set of ARP head studs are cheaper than 2 sets of OEM head bolts, but the bolts can be used countless times, and the bolts are one time use. This also means it can save you time.

And use the correct lube, not just motor oil. There was a segment on a car show where they showed the clamping force compared to the torque applied to the fastener while using different lubes. It took multiple cycles to get the correct clamping force with motor oil and some other lube, there was some lube for drag racing that the clamping force was right the first time, but went up several thousand PSI each time and broke like the 3rd time. The special lube ARP sells is the best and is included with new fasteners and is like $20 for a jar the size of a small jar of peanut butter. It was correct the first time and within only a couple hundred PSI each time after...I'm definitely ordering some for my next build.

 

I think the throttle bodies and a couple coolant lines are different on OBD1 vs OBD2. I don't think any of it's a big deal.

 

ARP is a definite, also what lube would you recommend?

 

damn so do i seriously have to get a OBD1 manifold then? can i just get blox or skunk2? i wanna go on a cheap and reliable build

 

yeah, get whatever manifold you want. OEM manifolds are cheap. Like $50. I got two in my garage right now I'm probably going to cut and reweld one and idk about the other.

 

i might just take one off your hands if i'm committed

 

I just used some Red Line stuff a guy let me borrow. Jegs or wherever should carry something. I know Advance carries something, I think Royal Purple. Some people use motor oil if they're starting the motor within a week. Otherwise, get assembly lube. Assembly lube is like a must on cams.

I didn't fill my motor with oil yet, I plan to closer to when I start it up. Pour oil into the oil pump and filter. it will just get it moved up into the motor faster. The assembly lube is meant to help with the initial start, but still getting oil to everything as fast as possible is best. I've heard people say they take their valve cover off and pour the oil all over the cams and valves.

 

What are you doing with the motor? Turbo, high compression, just a stock rebuild? If you're going performance, don't bother. The stock manifold is a bottleneck. For turbo it's a restriction, and there's not a lot of knowledge about tuning around them. Kinda like how not everyone knows about how VTEC should be set up. It's throwing an extra variable in.

For NA high compression, if you're going kinda wild, you can put ITBs together pretty cheap. But keep in mind that tuning can be a pain. A set of motorcycle ITBs, and maybe a cheap eBay manifold, some couplers and a little enginuity could make a nice set of ITBs. I was going to make a set for a high compression D series using some Honda CBR600 ITBs. The advantage of using the Honda ITBs is the TPS sensor is already going to work with the car, or so I've read. Unfortunately we don't have the best manifold designs for D and B series motors. The K series guys really have some sweet stuff...but spending $1 on a intake manifold is a little crazy. This is actually part of why I bought a TIG welder, but that's beside the point.

 

high compression i guess/ rebuild p73 pistons and itr cams is all i think. the rest are bolt ons then tune

 

harnesses are pretty cheap so i guess i'll take the cheap and easy route and go with the OBD2 harness and obd2-obd1 adapter and run on chipped p06/p28 ecu.

 

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