motor died, need new motor. simple question.
Need a new motor for my del sol. Its a D15B7 SOHC non VTEC motor. I dont want to really go crazy with the motor swap, because I dont care about speed, I just want it to be very simple, plug and play.
what other honda longblocks will fit the d15b7 accessories? I play on buying the engine, taking the old engine and tranny out, swapping all of the wiring, and accessories to the new long block, but there are way more engines 1.5 and 1.6 engines out there that are not B7's
what other honda longblocks will fit the d15b7 accessories? I play on buying the engine, taking the old engine and tranny out, swapping all of the wiring, and accessories to the new long block, but there are way more engines 1.5 and 1.6 engines out there that are not B7's
I figured that is what I was going to have to do, unless I was going to buy different ECU's, vtec controllers, etc, amongst other things which is not what I want to do. Its my girlfriends car and she doesnt need anything like that, just an A to B car.
So its just another D15B7 then? No other D series Non vtec motor out there that would plug and play?
So its just another D15B7 then? No other D series Non vtec motor out there that would plug and play?
just get another b7. they can be had for like 200 in top shape...for a 15 year old motor.
not that you want to mess with. its an A to B use the d15b7.
not that you want to mess with. its an A to B use the d15b7.
One last question, what do you think I should do, buy a used engine, or a rebuilt, or re manufactured one? Im going to end up changing the headgasket, waterpump, timing belt, and valveseals...
Cheapest you can find, give it a bath (acid bath, not just soap and water) And replace from bottom up. You'd need to do that regardless. So look for cheap and clean 'er up.
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What do you mean acid bath?? I have no experience with acid at all...lol.
I just found a motor for $200, complete motor.(even though I only need the longblock) Guy says it has about 100k on it. im picking it up shortly.
Me and a good friend of mine are going to be doing the swap. I will have 2 other people on hand so I can get the swap done in 1 day. He has done swaps in the past, so I am glad to have a good friend to help me.
I plan on doing as much as I can to this motor while its out, to make sure I dont have to touch it for a while. I plan on doing timing belt, waterpump, headgasket, fuel filter, clean fuel injectors(send them off and use the older ones for time being), plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, valve cover gaskets
Anything else you would recommend? Anything other than going into the internals I am willing to do.
I just found a motor for $200, complete motor.(even though I only need the longblock) Guy says it has about 100k on it. im picking it up shortly.
Me and a good friend of mine are going to be doing the swap. I will have 2 other people on hand so I can get the swap done in 1 day. He has done swaps in the past, so I am glad to have a good friend to help me.
I plan on doing as much as I can to this motor while its out, to make sure I dont have to touch it for a while. I plan on doing timing belt, waterpump, headgasket, fuel filter, clean fuel injectors(send them off and use the older ones for time being), plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, valve cover gaskets
Anything else you would recommend? Anything other than going into the internals I am willing to do.
No. An "acid bath" is not required. This is a straight forward engine replacement. Not a full rebuild. Which brings me to my next point. There is no reason for him to replace everything from the bottom up. Again, it is a straight forward engine replacement.
What do you mean acid bath?? I have no experience with acid at all...lol.
I just found a motor for $200, complete motor.(even though I only need the longblock) Guy says it has about 100k on it. im picking it up shortly.
Me and a good friend of mine are going to be doing the swap. I will have 2 other people on hand so I can get the swap done in 1 day. He has done swaps in the past, so I am glad to have a good friend to help me.
I plan on doing as much as I can to this motor while its out, to make sure I dont have to touch it for a while. I plan on doing timing belt, waterpump, headgasket, fuel filter, clean fuel injectors, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, valve cover gaskets
Anything else you would recommend? Anything other than going into the internals I am willing to do.
I just found a motor for $200, complete motor.(even though I only need the longblock) Guy says it has about 100k on it. im picking it up shortly.
Me and a good friend of mine are going to be doing the swap. I will have 2 other people on hand so I can get the swap done in 1 day. He has done swaps in the past, so I am glad to have a good friend to help me.
I plan on doing as much as I can to this motor while its out, to make sure I dont have to touch it for a while. I plan on doing timing belt, waterpump, headgasket, fuel filter, clean fuel injectors, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, valve cover gaskets
Anything else you would recommend? Anything other than going into the internals I am willing to do.
You can do the cap and rotor thing, sure. Clean the rail and injectors if you want, although it should also be OK. If this is an A to B car, just do the swap and be done with it.
Well, D15B7 motors are notorious for head gasket failures. I would rather get it done with while the motor is out of the car so I don't have to do worry about it later.
Its an A to B car, but I don't want to have to really do anything to the motor in a while. My girl plans on having the car for a long time.
Its an A to B car, but I don't want to have to really do anything to the motor in a while. My girl plans on having the car for a long time.
since the motors out, might as well replace all those parts, saves u time in the long run and guarantees that the motor will last .. dunt jes throw in the motor without checking to see that everythings fine on it .. be smart about it .. unless u dunt mind doing all those things once the engine gives out
Headgaskets for the most part only go "bad" because people drive too long with overheated motors. Now on the old d series engines from 88-91 they used a composite head gasket that was made of some type of card board material and metal and they were prone to fail. After 92 they started using all metal. Any place, even a salvage yard, will give you a start up 30 day warranty. So if the gasket is bad they'll replace the whole motor. I've had a few d series engines with well over 200k and I never had a head gasket problem.
No. An "acid bath" is not required. This is a straight forward engine replacement. Not a full rebuild. Which brings me to my next point. There is no reason for him to replace everything from the bottom up. Again, it is a straight forward engine replacement.
would be nice if its possible to check for any oil leaks at the rear and front main seal,
cause having to change those while its still attached to the tranny/ in the car is a beyotch
cause having to change those while its still attached to the tranny/ in the car is a beyotch
check each cylinder's cross-hatching .. if u see a bunch of lines going at an angle on the cylinder walls then ur cross-hatching is still there .. its mandatory to have these 'lines' as they trap a film of oil for ur rings to be lubricated, if they're not there (cylinder hone if they're not there) and u run the engine like that, say bye-bye to ur rings as they'll most likely cause damage to the cylinder walls/ pistons/ rings .. and also check the crankshaft journals (main and rod journals), run ur fingernail to test if the journals are smooth, if ur fingernail catches on the journals then u need to machine that journal to be smooth (if most of the journals 'catch' then u might as well machine all of them to be smooth) .. i might be telling u too much, but if u want reliability for this motor and u dunt wanna end up doing it agen soon after u install the engine, it'd be smart for u to do it .. lemme know how it goes and if u got questions then ask away, we're all here for the same reason u r .. GL bro!
The guy backed out, and sold it to a guy for $180, I couldnt make the drive until this saturday. What a shame, because I would have paid twice what the other guy paid.
Back in the hunt for a motor.
Back in the hunt for a motor.
Where are you finding these engines for $200? I'm in So FL and to purchase a running engine with a warranty from a salvage yard (and with under 100k), they're $500-$650.
Headgaskets for the most part only go "bad" because people drive too long with overheated motors. Now on the old d series engines from 88-91 they used a composite head gasket that was made of some type of card board material and metal and they were prone to fail. After 92 they started using all metal. Any place, even a salvage yard, will give you a start up 30 day warranty. So if the gasket is bad they'll replace the whole motor. I've had a few d series engines with well over 200k and I never had a head gasket problem.
Btw, you could have also used a SOHC OBD1 non Vtec ZC, you can get them with low miles for $400 - $500 from an importer, complete engine with accessories and low miles. Or you could have used a D16Y7 longblock.
I think this swap is very common for the ordinary joe or jane with a damaged D15B7. Here at honda-tech folks typically seem to swap to something with higher power, hence I think there is not too much H-T chatter about the non-vtec D15B.
For the money and low miles, I would shop for a D15B non-vtec imported from Japan. See discussion of the final result of swapping this out with a stock D15B7 at http://sites.google.com/site/hondali...15benginenotes. There is no number after the "D15B." When purchasing, you need to specify the non-vtec, formerly carbureted version of D15B, because there is a vtec version, too.
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc...age&item=30023
i likey hmotors. they have good customer service too which is nice
i likey hmotors. they have good customer service too which is nice


