92-96 H22...VS....97-01 H22. Which swap would you buy and why?
I have the opportunity to either buy a 95 jdm H22 swap for $2400 with who knows how many miles, Or a usdm 99 h22 swap with 26k miles for $3200. I am not concerned with OBD2 since that can be easily bypassed, but what benefits does the close deck design offer over that of the open deck? I tried a search and didn't come up with the info i needed, thanks in advance
get the 97 engine. Then turbo or supercharge it. Trust me you will like the difference in power at first but then you will be itching for more!
I don't think a 97 engine was among the choices.
Here's what I know (not too much):
pre-1997 engines were closed deck. This is good for any sort of FI because the cylinder walls are less likely to walk under the loads present in any FI application.
1997+ engines are open deck, which makes them more susceptible to this sort of thing.
However, if you're running FI, then it's pretty safe to assume that you're running forged pistons. If so, then you're sleeving your block. If so, then it's pretty simple to get a block guard, which essentially turns an open deck block into a closed deck one (speaking very very loosely).
The choice should have more to do with you plans for the motor. If you're going to be boosting, I'd say get the closed deck motor.
Also, there's the OBD1 vs. OBD2 thing. Most folks would rather have the OBD1 motor, although a conversion is possible (OBD2 -> OBD1)
HTH
Here's what I know (not too much):
pre-1997 engines were closed deck. This is good for any sort of FI because the cylinder walls are less likely to walk under the loads present in any FI application.
1997+ engines are open deck, which makes them more susceptible to this sort of thing.
However, if you're running FI, then it's pretty safe to assume that you're running forged pistons. If so, then you're sleeving your block. If so, then it's pretty simple to get a block guard, which essentially turns an open deck block into a closed deck one (speaking very very loosely).
The choice should have more to do with you plans for the motor. If you're going to be boosting, I'd say get the closed deck motor.
Also, there's the OBD1 vs. OBD2 thing. Most folks would rather have the OBD1 motor, although a conversion is possible (OBD2 -> OBD1)
HTH
how bout a 94 usdm h22 swap for 1800...mine...thats what you need ~70k miles w/no wear at all, head is off the block for inspection of the cylinder walls, compression check before the remopvel was ~225 accross the board...check out the link below
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fizix
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Dec 2, 2005 07:46 AM




