poorEK's build. gettin it done from Iraq
This is my buddies build thread im making for him since hes out in Iraq with a shitty connection. he bought this EK has a shell from one of our friends and its a car that he has wanted for a long time.
The car had the interior completly stripped out of it when he bought it (no dash, seats, interior panels were installed), but it came with some goodies.
Engine:
B16A SIR-I head
B18C1 Block
Wiseco pistons 81.5mm
Eagle Rods
Honda Bearings
GSR crank
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Valves
Supertech Retainers
B16 cams
Victor X intake manifold
Hondata IM gasket
ARP head studs
Omni 4 bar map sensor
Mishimoto Radiator
Suspension,Brakes and Trans:
GSR trans
DA axles and intermediate shaft
GSR Front brakes with drilled and slotted rotors and extended studs
GSR Rear Brakes
Tien Supersteets in front
Tien Basics in rear
megan racing rear lower control arms
Turbo Set Up:
Turbo Elements T3 Topmount
Turbo Elements 3" downpipe
Turbo Elements Charge piping
Mishimoto Intercooler
Tial 50mm BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Garrett T3/T61 Turbo
Fuel and Misc.
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Weldon FPR
Fast-Turbo fuel line kit
Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc injectors (Injector Dynamics copies that are cheaper and flow the same)
AEM fuel rail
CTR replica wing
2000 Front end conversion
Carbon fiber racing seats
Si cluster
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Black housing headlights
jdm Fog lights
EX doors (power windows)
Oil pressure gauge (no dummy light for a dummy)
OBD-1 wired distributor
OBD-1 alternator wiring
well this kinda started with a 89 B16 turbo CRX SI.

look what happens when you dont keep an eye on your temp gauge.


then after some time of selling some cars, then finding the EK that he loved.



starting the engine build



redid the head (ewwww rusty)


getting all cleaned up




coming all together

further along





going in





a little wiring work






new wheels. picked them up for $300


fuel lines and turbo set up








updates:











more updates:



newest updates:


idk if the intercooler is big enough... lol
STILL UNDER THE KNIFE!!!
going late next week to the shop to get finished up and tuned. shooting for the 500hp area. more pics to come.
ALSO, A VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM AT TURBO ELEMENTS FOR GIVING US SOME GREAT DEALS ON THE PARTS BOUGHT FROM HIM, AND TAKING CARE OF ANYTHING WE NEEDED DONE!!!
www.turboelements.com
The car had the interior completly stripped out of it when he bought it (no dash, seats, interior panels were installed), but it came with some goodies.
Engine:
B16A SIR-I head
B18C1 Block
Wiseco pistons 81.5mm
Eagle Rods
Honda Bearings
GSR crank
Supertech Valve Springs
Supertech Valves
Supertech Retainers
B16 cams
Victor X intake manifold
Hondata IM gasket
ARP head studs
Omni 4 bar map sensor
Mishimoto Radiator
Suspension,Brakes and Trans:
GSR trans
DA axles and intermediate shaft
GSR Front brakes with drilled and slotted rotors and extended studs
GSR Rear Brakes
Tien Supersteets in front
Tien Basics in rear
megan racing rear lower control arms
Turbo Set Up:
Turbo Elements T3 Topmount
Turbo Elements 3" downpipe
Turbo Elements Charge piping
Mishimoto Intercooler
Tial 50mm BOV
Tial 44mm Wastegate
Garrett T3/T61 Turbo
Fuel and Misc.
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Weldon FPR
Fast-Turbo fuel line kit
Fuel Injector Clinic 1000cc injectors (Injector Dynamics copies that are cheaper and flow the same)
AEM fuel rail
CTR replica wing
2000 Front end conversion
Carbon fiber racing seats
Si cluster
VIS Carbon Fiber Hood
Black housing headlights
jdm Fog lights
EX doors (power windows)
Oil pressure gauge (no dummy light for a dummy)
OBD-1 wired distributor
OBD-1 alternator wiring
well this kinda started with a 89 B16 turbo CRX SI.

look what happens when you dont keep an eye on your temp gauge.


then after some time of selling some cars, then finding the EK that he loved.



starting the engine build



redid the head (ewwww rusty)


getting all cleaned up




coming all together

further along





going in





a little wiring work






new wheels. picked them up for $300


fuel lines and turbo set up








updates:











more updates:



newest updates:


idk if the intercooler is big enough... lol
STILL UNDER THE KNIFE!!!
going late next week to the shop to get finished up and tuned. shooting for the 500hp area. more pics to come.
ALSO, A VERY SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM AT TURBO ELEMENTS FOR GIVING US SOME GREAT DEALS ON THE PARTS BOUGHT FROM HIM, AND TAKING CARE OF ANYTHING WE NEEDED DONE!!!
www.turboelements.com
Last edited by sloK; Feb 21, 2011 at 08:19 PM.
Well, I think he should get rid of the rims and valve cover.
The shell is very nice, as is the motor/turbo set-up, but the Slips and fake Mugen cover clash with how nice the rest is.
The shell is very nice, as is the motor/turbo set-up, but the Slips and fake Mugen cover clash with how nice the rest is.
500whp on stock honda bearings?...spun bearings is one of the most common problems for hondas because of poor break in and they are not designed for that much power.
yes, 500hp on OEM bearing. are they used? no. will it hold up? perfectly. years ago people thought that you couldnt take a honda past 300hp without sleeving the motor, now its has been proven that they will handle 600 without being sleeved. you have to have the right person build the bottom end and run the correct oil.
most people dont realize that you cant run shitty 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil in high hp cars. this car is going to be pushing over 100hp per cylinder and will be running 20w-50 oil at all times, and its not going to be too much of a daily driver anyways.
josh- what exactly are you trying to say to loom dude?
most people dont realize that you cant run shitty 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil in high hp cars. this car is going to be pushing over 100hp per cylinder and will be running 20w-50 oil at all times, and its not going to be too much of a daily driver anyways.
josh- what exactly are you trying to say to loom dude?
Trending Topics
what rims n valve cover would you go with?
Last edited by 07gsxr; Jan 23, 2011 at 07:27 PM.
Ok...Are you going to run synthetic for the break in? Being able to handle and being able to handle as a DD for years are completely different. Yes a stock sleeved and bearing B series can handle high HP but for how long? You can read all through H-T and see bearings and sleeves going out with way less power. Why do you say that 5w-30 or 10w-30 oil is shitty? I agree that you have to run the right oil but it is going to depend on where you live.
This is a dependable 500hp DD engine:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/fully-built-bard-b18c5-ek-2886039/
This is a dependable 500hp DD engine:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/fully-built-bard-b18c5-ek-2886039/
actually. any 500hp honda isnt "relyable" because no performance engine is honestly. come down to Dallas during the summer and run around in the humid 110 degree weather with a heat index for 130 easy. the thin oil will not withstand the extra heat and pressure of a higher hp car, THAT is a big reason why people spin bearings.
if you want to learn about proper turbo and engine lubrication with high performance/boosted engines go here http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
it will explain a lot, and show exactly where most people **** up when it comes to their builds because its not something they really think of.
as of the tuner is running his gsr EF (90turboEF on here) with oem honda bearings running the same 20w-50 oil for 3 years now without a single engine problem due to oil with OEM bearings. he is in the mid to upper 400hp range. this car will be a DD for MAYBE a few months until poorEK buys a new truck... then its going in the garage for most of its life.
if you want to learn about proper turbo and engine lubrication with high performance/boosted engines go here http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
it will explain a lot, and show exactly where most people **** up when it comes to their builds because its not something they really think of.
as of the tuner is running his gsr EF (90turboEF on here) with oem honda bearings running the same 20w-50 oil for 3 years now without a single engine problem due to oil with OEM bearings. he is in the mid to upper 400hp range. this car will be a DD for MAYBE a few months until poorEK buys a new truck... then its going in the garage for most of its life.
very nice build. It will go go!! :-)
and i have never broken in any motor i have had. I go to the dyno with 0 miles, it idles for about 10 minutes then runs on the dyno for about a mile at par-throttle. Then boosttttttttttttttttt!! lol
i used to use castrol 10w40 with no issue, I now use AMS oil.
Goodluck on the build.
and i have never broken in any motor i have had. I go to the dyno with 0 miles, it idles for about 10 minutes then runs on the dyno for about a mile at par-throttle. Then boosttttttttttttttttt!! lol
i used to use castrol 10w40 with no issue, I now use AMS oil.
Goodluck on the build.
thats basicly what happens with all my motors. MAYBE driven to the dyno, but idled, rolled, oil changed then mad boost.
last car i built did 445hp/300tq Ls/v 10:1 motor, sc61, stock head port, stock sleeves, victor x and 18psi. then turned up to 21psi (okayed by tuner) so it was around the 460-470 range. that was last year, and its still running great to this day. like i have said, propper build and bearing clearances with proper lubrication and maintainence will give life to a motor instead of light oil and hard beatings....
i honestly think that one of the beastiest motors iv seen was my friends (JDMH22HATCH) stock LS Turbo making close to 400hp run for like 7 years, and when it blew it only cracked a ring land.
last car i built did 445hp/300tq Ls/v 10:1 motor, sc61, stock head port, stock sleeves, victor x and 18psi. then turned up to 21psi (okayed by tuner) so it was around the 460-470 range. that was last year, and its still running great to this day. like i have said, propper build and bearing clearances with proper lubrication and maintainence will give life to a motor instead of light oil and hard beatings....
i honestly think that one of the beastiest motors iv seen was my friends (JDMH22HATCH) stock LS Turbo making close to 400hp run for like 7 years, and when it blew it only cracked a ring land.
I know a lot of people that do it that way and I guess it works. I believe in doing a break in. Internals need to seat. I run a non-detergent non-synthetic straight 30 for a couple hundred miles then switch to a straight 30 synthetic. It has worked great on every car I have ever built.
That valve cover is okay (not a fan of it real or fake) but I would use to real version to compliment the car.
Rims also something "real".
I'm not usually like that, but then again most people with Rotas and that Tenzo R VC also have stock SOHC or basic LS/B16 swap, with a whole bunch of other knock-off goodies.
I mean, if I bought another Honda as a beater, I would throw every ebay/cheap part on that bitch. LOL. My Prelude, already has too much invested to have any less than the CE28's that I want.
But it doesn't sound like they're going to be permantent fixtures on this car.
Rims also something "real".
I'm not usually like that, but then again most people with Rotas and that Tenzo R VC also have stock SOHC or basic LS/B16 swap, with a whole bunch of other knock-off goodies.
I mean, if I bought another Honda as a beater, I would throw every ebay/cheap part on that bitch. LOL. My Prelude, already has too much invested to have any less than the CE28's that I want.
But it doesn't sound like they're going to be permantent fixtures on this car.
an the slips r temps had to get the car off the stock steelies with stock hub caps it was killing the car lol
i personally dont think that the wheels look bad. but the whole car still isnt completely finished yet. he still has a few parts coming in, still has to get the seats recovered, engine tuned, steering wheel on, cage bought.... plenty of things are in the process of being done. though right now those wheels look good for $300 with good tires on them lol
i was kinda thinking about painting a hand print or a middle finger or something like that.
i think it would be fun just to **** him off, get a unicorn sticker and paint that on there lol
i think it would be fun just to **** him off, get a unicorn sticker and paint that on there lol
NEW PICS!
the car finally saw the light of day again for the first time in months. got a few wiring issues attended to, fixed a few things and just trying to get things done as quick as possible. enjoy


the car finally saw the light of day again for the first time in months. got a few wiring issues attended to, fixed a few things and just trying to get things done as quick as possible. enjoy


Last edited by sloK; Jan 29, 2011 at 11:02 AM.



