New to HT and new H22a build
Im new but have been reading HT forums and have attended a few HT meetings here in Oregon. Wanted to share my current and first H22 build and hopefully get a few Q's answered and some helpful advice. 
I have learned one lesson so far... make sure your machinist has had plenty of experience with what your working on! I took my block to a very reputable machinist in the V-8 racing world. But after he completely destroyed my cylinder walls from trying to hone it I learned who and who not to do business with.
Now I'm debating whether to use Darton dry flanged sleeves or just the one at my other machine shops use. I'm currently taking Engine rebuilding classes in college and my instructor thinks the cheap replacement sleeves will work fine. For $750 I can have the Darton flanged installed from a reputable company that does them often.
I will be running
-11.5:1 CP pistons
-Skunk2 Tuner series Stage 2 cams (Do I have to alter the valve guides using these cams and valve springs??)
-Skunk2 valve springs (Do I need to run adjustable cam gears???)
-I ordered KMS chromoly retainers (hoping these work with the Skunk2 springs)
-ARP everything
-Eagle H-beam rods
-Clevite bearings
-Still debating on which header to run. (help?)
-Looking for P28 with S300 Hondata (Debating on s100)
-Quaife LSD
-I have VAFC II just not sure if I will use it
-Upgraded my LMA to the new spring style
Any info or tips greatly appreciated!
Oh also, if anyone that reads this is looking for a BRAND NEW set of 87mm Mahle Gold Series pistons with rings and wrist pins PM me. I also have the used 87mm stock set of pistons and rods too. The used ones are in really good shape with no more than 40K miles on them.

I have learned one lesson so far... make sure your machinist has had plenty of experience with what your working on! I took my block to a very reputable machinist in the V-8 racing world. But after he completely destroyed my cylinder walls from trying to hone it I learned who and who not to do business with.

Now I'm debating whether to use Darton dry flanged sleeves or just the one at my other machine shops use. I'm currently taking Engine rebuilding classes in college and my instructor thinks the cheap replacement sleeves will work fine. For $750 I can have the Darton flanged installed from a reputable company that does them often.
I will be running
-11.5:1 CP pistons
-Skunk2 Tuner series Stage 2 cams (Do I have to alter the valve guides using these cams and valve springs??)
-Skunk2 valve springs (Do I need to run adjustable cam gears???)
-I ordered KMS chromoly retainers (hoping these work with the Skunk2 springs)
-ARP everything
-Eagle H-beam rods
-Clevite bearings
-Still debating on which header to run. (help?)
-Looking for P28 with S300 Hondata (Debating on s100)
-Quaife LSD
-I have VAFC II just not sure if I will use it
-Upgraded my LMA to the new spring style
Any info or tips greatly appreciated!

Oh also, if anyone that reads this is looking for a BRAND NEW set of 87mm Mahle Gold Series pistons with rings and wrist pins PM me. I also have the used 87mm stock set of pistons and rods too. The used ones are in really good shape with no more than 40K miles on them.
Ferrea Springs & Retainers
Hardened keepers
Supertech Flat Nitride Valves
Honda NSX spring style LMA's (LOST MOTION ASSEMBLY)
Bronze Valve Guides
Valve seals & Spring seats
pro 2 skunk2 cam
Thats a good setup
Hardened keepers
Supertech Flat Nitride Valves
Honda NSX spring style LMA's (LOST MOTION ASSEMBLY)
Bronze Valve Guides
Valve seals & Spring seats
pro 2 skunk2 cam
Thats a good setup
Thanks for the info!
I forgot to mention it's a closed deck block.
I ordered the NSX LMA's. I already installed the bronze valve guides.
Wondering if I had to use adjustable cam gears to get the valve timing right with the Stage 2 cams?
I forgot to mention it's a closed deck block.
I ordered the NSX LMA's. I already installed the bronze valve guides.
Wondering if I had to use adjustable cam gears to get the valve timing right with the Stage 2 cams?
The tuner series stage 2's are already on their way. I debated on the stage 1's or the 2's for quite a while. The only big difference is the Tuner series just aren't as aggressive on the lower RPM's for better MPG and driveability.
I should just let everyone know I'm not going for an all out race motor. This is my every day driver. I still wanna get decent gas mileage and want decent engine life. In the future I may rip it all apart and throw in some 9:1 pistons and boost it, but for now I just want decent power and reliability.
Do I need bigger injectors or just a fuel pump? Or neither?
I should just let everyone know I'm not going for an all out race motor. This is my every day driver. I still wanna get decent gas mileage and want decent engine life. In the future I may rip it all apart and throw in some 9:1 pistons and boost it, but for now I just want decent power and reliability.
Do I need bigger injectors or just a fuel pump? Or neither?
Look on ebay, type in h22 headers.
The have these 4-1 fat *** nice *** headers.
they are 375 or 450, there are two different type. I would get those, They look nice.
The have these 4-1 fat *** nice *** headers.
they are 375 or 450, there are two different type. I would get those, They look nice.
Awesome man. I'm doing a similar build with my H22A. Mine will just be really, really slow. I'm in to see your progress though, good luck and keep me posted.
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I already have no cat, and 2 1/2in all the way back.
If anyone wants a JDM H22a header with all the rough welds ground and polished out let me know. Can make a good deal for someone on HT.
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