I got a built h22 running precision 6765 I made 520 on pump and wastegate before I turn it up I want to change cams as I'm shooting for the 700whp plus range right now I'm running crower stage2 cams. They made more power than the type s cams so what should I run. I'm kinda inbetween crower stg3 and skunk2pro2 so what your input

 

Running PRO 1s on a 35r, made 400 @ 11 psi and 540 at 18 psi

 

I have been using pro1's in my am build and am now sticking with the pro 1's for my turbo true street build. I have been told by alot of people to stick with them!

 

Pro1's , 350hp on 10 with an sc61

 

Here I was using skunk2 stage 2 cam 831hp at 31 psi with the 4272 presicion turbo

 

I'm using the Pro 1's and like them.

 

i got pro1's on my car no complaint yet.......i think i gained about 80hp with no adjustments

 

WEB CAMS HERE WILL SOON FIND OUT HOW GOOD THEY ARE!

 

ferrea roller cams here made 580 on a 14 psi spring and t3 turbo

 

just curious,
you said you made more power with the crower stage 2 than the type s cams.
any idea how much the gain was?

 

Pro2's are too big just stick with a Pro1

 

I told you I would go pro1s or if you got the money then go web. I am going to take the tuner1s out of mine and put them in the daily and move up to pro1s.

 

Have you had problems with wearing the retainers out? I think i read somewhere that Randy (nah2b) was having to shave his retainers due to the cams hitting or pushing too much... ?


Gangster! lol

 

Don't run Pro 2's. Too much overlap.

Secondly, don't confuse "stage 2's" with "Pro 2's"

I had a good deal of success with the Pro 1's. Do yourself a favor and put the cam centers at 110/110 or close to it. This means you will have to advance the exhaust cam (8 degrees or so, depending on how much your head and block have been cut) and retard the intake (5 degrees or so... depending...). This will decrease the overlap and it will aid in top end power, especially on a 65mm turbine wheel. Plus it will idle WAY better and be easier to tune around the idle area.

Call us if you want to talk specifics. Good luck.

 

I never had any problem with the skunk2 stage 2 He probably was runing the skunk2 pro2s

 

Thanks for all the input and keep it coming I like to hear from the high hp cars I don't really care how it idles I just want to make power

How much of a diff is there in skunk stage 2 and pro 1s

 

So do yal think crower turbo stg2s will take me to 750??? I'm at 520 on wastegate and pump gas without messing with timing or cam gears at all. Thing I have changed before I re tune is I went from precision 650hp intercooler, 1000cc rc injectors, intake walbro and stock tank to forward facing manifold, liquid to air setup, 1600cc injectors, jaz fuel cell, and aeromotive pump. If my cams need to be upgrated I want to do it now why I have the money. So if they won't make 700 plus they got to go

 

bisimoto level 3.6's have shown very good numbers through out the power band & the pro1's are a good choice also.

 

Stock to Pro 1's NA cam! for close to same price Pro 1's should gain more power a bit then old stage 2's...

 

Yeah I meant the pro's. Forgot to put "pro" and misread your post. Good catch, thanks.

 

Somebody has dyno sheet on either of them (stock, aftermarket and higher stages etc) at the equal RPM/Boost? That's gona be the best comparasion as for me. Otherwise you are talking about nothing...

 

here ya go. http://www.superstreetonline.com/tec...vic/index.html

 

I have pro 1's and I'm running a t3/to4e turbo. I made 375 at 15 psi, but my vtec is not engaging. I'm wondering if it's due to the cams being too aggressive, or the fact that I'm not running an equal length mani? When I was boosted on the stock h22 vtec did engage. Any suggestions?

 

If VTEC isn't engaging, it isn't because the cams are too aggressive. If you don't have a CEL, then make sure you have oil in the engine. I can't tell you how many times I've seen that! With that small of a turbo, it will want less overlap than you're getting with Pro1's installed straight up. Advance the exhaust (appx. 8 degrees or so) and retard the intake cam (appx. 4 degrees or so), then take it in for a retune and make more power.

 

sounds like a oil pressure problem If vtec worked before you changed the cams you might wan to look into checking the orifice and o-ring in the center cam cap.