Causes for Burning Oil on ITR?
oil will break down under high temperatures. - i can't think of anything else but engine getting hot where oil starts to burn - nothing else could cause that, right? If ecu would cause that, would it be running too lean? - someone explain this..
wanted to ad, with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
[Modified by vtec.dc2, 2:58 PM 9/24/2002]
wanted to ad, with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
[Modified by vtec.dc2, 2:58 PM 9/24/2002]
It depends on the severity of use. What are we talking about here - daily driving with occasional dips into VTEC vs. street/track use with constant redline visits.
Oil burning is where oil gets into the combustion chamber.
Causes: Rings not sealing well, or oil leaking past valves.
Also with vtec, vtec is actuated by oil pressure. I've heard some leakage past that mechanism is unavoidable, but I really dont understand how it works so I dont know.
[Modified by jond, 2:55 PM 9/24/2002]
Causes: Rings not sealing well, or oil leaking past valves.
Also with vtec, vtec is actuated by oil pressure. I've heard some leakage past that mechanism is unavoidable, but I really dont understand how it works so I dont know.
[Modified by jond, 2:55 PM 9/24/2002]
I tend to think it may be related to fuel. My car is burning between 2-3 quarts / 3K miles right now. For the first 1K miles, it doesn't burn any oil, then about 1500 miles it starts burning and by 2K it's gone through at least 1qt. It continues from there until I change the oil again.
I think it's fuel related, because my oil consumption really rose when I started getting more CEL 22's and the car ran in limp mode more often. I definitely wasn't driving it any harder, but oil consumption went way up. My plugs also have fouled in the past year due to this (they were new less than 12 mos ago). It's also odd that my oil has always had a strong fuel odor to it, which the dealer told me was "normal", but I was genuinely worried about since day 1.
Given that (in my case) oil consumption doesn't start immediately, but rather after the oil has been in a while, I think it's something beyond the normal wear on the motor itself. YMMV, of course.
I think it's fuel related, because my oil consumption really rose when I started getting more CEL 22's and the car ran in limp mode more often. I definitely wasn't driving it any harder, but oil consumption went way up. My plugs also have fouled in the past year due to this (they were new less than 12 mos ago). It's also odd that my oil has always had a strong fuel odor to it, which the dealer told me was "normal", but I was genuinely worried about since day 1.
Given that (in my case) oil consumption doesn't start immediately, but rather after the oil has been in a while, I think it's something beyond the normal wear on the motor itself. YMMV, of course.
For the first 1K miles, it doesn't burn any oil, then about 1500 miles it starts burning and by 2K it's gone through at least 1qt. It continues from there until I change the oil again.
Running too rich. Gasoline thins the oil and it goes by rings and seals.
After-market air intake with improper placement (angle) of fitting that goes to the cam cover. If fitting is at a 90 degree angle on intake it creates a vacuum instead of a positive pressure and oil is sucked into intake. It lowers effective octane rating and can cause detonation, too.
John
After-market air intake with improper placement (angle) of fitting that goes to the cam cover. If fitting is at a 90 degree angle on intake it creates a vacuum instead of a positive pressure and oil is sucked into intake. It lowers effective octane rating and can cause detonation, too.
John
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It depends on the severity of use. What are we talking about here - daily driving with occasional dips into VTEC vs. street/track use with constant redline visits.
5/30 Mobil 1
I also ran 10W/30 Mobil 1 with the same results. I'm going to switch to Valvoline Max Life 5W/30 on my next change. We'll see what happens after that.
I also ran 10W/30 Mobil 1 with the same results. I'm going to switch to Valvoline Max Life 5W/30 on my next change. We'll see what happens after that.
What oil weight are you running. One possability is that oils warm weight number decreases with use. For example, my 5w30 mobil1 tested at 5w20 after 3,000miles.
5/30 Mobil 1
I also ran 10W/30 Mobil 1 with the same results. I'm going to switch to Valvoline Max Life 5W/30 on my next change. We'll see what happens after that.
What oil weight are you running. One possability is that oils warm weight number decreases with use. For example, my 5w30 mobil1 tested at 5w20 after 3,000miles.
I also ran 10W/30 Mobil 1 with the same results. I'm going to switch to Valvoline Max Life 5W/30 on my next change. We'll see what happens after that.
What oil weight are you running. One possability is that oils warm weight number decreases with use. For example, my 5w30 mobil1 tested at 5w20 after 3,000miles.
It depends on the severity of use. What are we talking about here - daily driving with occasional dips into VTEC vs. street/track use with constant redline visits.
Or daily driving with constant vtec and redlining?
Or daily driving with constant vtec and redlining?
1.
i can't seem to understand that one.. i can understand how gasoline would thin the oil..
but lets say there's nothing wrong with seals. rings.. how would running rich break though seals?
2. How does it make sence in my case?
Running too rich. Gasoline thins the oil and it goes by rings and seals.
but lets say there's nothing wrong with seals. rings.. how would running rich break though seals?
2. How does it make sence in my case?
with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com then go to forums and dig around.
o.k.. i should of added that i used regular oil (5w30) before and after...
[Modified by vtec.dc2, 12:03 AM 9/25/2002]
wanted to ad, with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
[Modified by vtec.dc2, 12:03 AM 9/25/2002]
1. Running too rich. Gasoline thins the oil and it goes by rings and seals.
i can't seem to understand that one.. i can understand how gasoline would thin the oil..
but lets say there's nothing wrong with seals. rings.. how would running rich break though seals?
i can't seem to understand that one.. i can understand how gasoline would thin the oil..
but lets say there's nothing wrong with seals. rings.. how would running rich break though seals?
2. How does it make sence in my case?
with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
with larger injectors I haven't noticed loss of oil, where i would always burn it with stock injectors/ecu... does this makes sence?
If you have a FPR and a fuel pressure gauge, check to see what the pressure is set to. Unless you have a lot of engine work, the pressure shouldn't be higher than ~46. If you need to set your FPR higher than that, you should consider getting larger injectors.
Possible causes for excessive oil cosumption:
1. Premature use of synthetic oil (a biggie on this board)
2. Improper break-in period (i.e. bouncing off the rev limiter in a new car)
3. 1 or more defective rings from the factory (rare, but does indeed happen)
1. Premature use of synthetic oil (a biggie on this board)
2. Improper break-in period (i.e. bouncing off the rev limiter in a new car)
3. 1 or more defective rings from the factory (rare, but does indeed happen)
I've got my valve seals done awhile back too still burnin oil but not as much. must be the rings. I went through about 3 oil changes in 3 months always having to top it off 1 quart a week while using 5w30,10w30 mobil 1 synthetics and was still burning oil. LAst month I tried 15w50 mobil 1 synthetic in my teg and I race heavily every weekend and I had just added about a quart today. I have to drive hard atleast everyday a couple of times a day just can't help the feeling of torque while I'm driving. But I think it help my pockets out a bit just make sure you let the car idle til it's warm. pretty thick
Causes for Burning Oil on ITR?
Mobile Freaking One!
Mobile Freaking One!
also, at several autocrosses it's been mentioned to me a poof of light white smoke from my exhaust when launching hard in 1st gear
Causes for Burning Oil on ITR?
Mobile Freaking One!
explain please... i use mobile 1 5w30 and i too burn oil.
Mobile Freaking One!
explain please... i use mobile 1 5w30 and i too burn oil.
Regular oil (non-synthetic) is thicker, so it won't seep past the rings as easily.
Another option is to use really thick synthetic oil, like 10W50 or something like that.
I've mentioned this in the past....
my car makes good compression numbers and has less than 2% variation when doing a leakdown test....
I've used Mobil 15W50 on lapping days and I still burn it.... infact when using a N1 style exhaust system....(straight thru muffler) my car can blow smoke rings....
I suspect it's the PCV now, since I can actually SEE the intake manifold sucking oil out of the catchcan (non baffled)
RA who isn't as worried as he use to be....
my car makes good compression numbers and has less than 2% variation when doing a leakdown test....
I've used Mobil 15W50 on lapping days and I still burn it.... infact when using a N1 style exhaust system....(straight thru muffler) my car can blow smoke rings....
I suspect it's the PCV now, since I can actually SEE the intake manifold sucking oil out of the catchcan (non baffled)
RA who isn't as worried as he use to be....


