My brother called me Saturday and was having problems starting his car. He had his friend jumping him because his car wouldn't start. The jumper car was on, my brother would start the car, and it'd fire up, but then it'd turn off after 3-5 seconds. He wouldn't do anything, it would just turn off. Then he'd go to crank again and it wouldn't turn on. He'd have to crank 3 or 4 times before it'd start up again. When it would start up, it'd turn off after 3-4 seconds again.

What's the deal? He knows his battery is bad. He got a new one and it does the same thing, no change. I have people telling me it's the alternator. But from what I understand, wouldn't the car still run on the battery alone without the alternator charging the battery?

 

It depends, modern cars draw more and more power every year. Plus when you have any aftermarket accessories (sound system) it draws even more.

It would be a good idea to check the alternator. Also check fuel pressure, for spark, and a dirty filter. But first, you need to scan for codes. Even if the MIL isn't on it could have a code stored.

 

Immobilizer might be f*cked by jumping it. I've heard it happen before.

 

He was having these problems before he got the car jumped. He said it was happening 2-3 days prior to the jump.

 

If it starts the immobilizer isn't the problem.

 

Could it be, that the fuel pump stops running, after the key switch go's back in to the run position.

Try switching to one of the other 4 or 5 prong relays.

I'm guessing but, when cars did this in ancient times it was caused by the starter solenoid shutting off the power in the run position, but being the car cranks I'm thinking fuel shutting down.

Another thought does this car have a fuel shut off reset switch, in the trunk?

 

Does Honda put those in their cars from the factory? He has done literally nothing to the car since he got it. He's not into modifying cars.

 

I can't find anything in the service manual about the fuel shut off, but I'm still looking.

Have you had a new key made? are you using a different key? Did you try the other key that works the ignition? is the key your using on a ring or case with other keys?

Any of these, things according to the manual, can cause the fuel to shut off.

I will get back to you on the shut off.

 

It's my brother's car, not mine. He's got a lot of keys on his key ring.

As far as I know, he hasn't had a new key made. And as you may know, the master key for 8th gens have the un/lock and truck button built into it. Last time he was home, I drove his car and the key looked the same *shrug*.

 

According to the manual, lots of metal (keys) around the car key can ruin it. And I would assume with more electronics in the key that it makes it more susceptible to interference. Try taking the other keys off the chain, ya never know.

 

It's possible the transponder in the key just crapped, if he has different keys try them

 

The key idea didn't work. Thanks though. He tried both the valet and master.

 

Like bee guz said try switching relays. If that isn't it, check fuel pressure. Don't quote me but, I believe it should be in the 40's.

 

I have the same problem.

I have an 06 LX civic. Bought a Duralast battery a month ago. Changed plugs 2 months ago.

Now when I go to start. It turns over fine but doesn't start. Battery is fine, wipers work, lights work. I try and jump it and it still won't start.

I checked the fuses and none were blown. I lifted the air filter and I could smell alittle gas.

Any suggestions? I want to get it to start so I don't have to tow it.

 

How do you switch relays?

 

Look in the box find the relay in question, in your case fuel pump, pull out the relay and look for one that looks like the one you pulled (same number of prongs on the bottom) and switch positions.

If you have fuel smell it could be flooded from attempts to start it, before you go switching relays try starting it like they did in the old days of carburetors, press the accelerator to the floor and crank it a few times.

If the car makes an attempt to start you are on the right track, the plugs my be fowled with fuel and cant fire enough to start with the fuel pedal to the floor hopefully the butterfly will open enough to let air in to help clear up the problem.

I would make sure you have fire first before going thru this, if you have no spark at the plug wires the car is not going to start no matter what you do until you find the spark problem.

In the old days you checked for spark then for fuel(now days fuel pressure) do these 2 things before you do anything on a car that refuses to start.

 

I did the thing I read on the net to turn the key to on position wait a few seconds after fuel pump and then start.

Tried to start but couldn't.

Turned it off. Pressed accelerator to floor, cranked for 8 seconds and car started. Car reved high let foot off the gas and alot of smoke came out of my tailpipe but the car started.

What do you think cause my car not to start?

What caused all the smoke out of the pipe?

Do you think my car is damaged from the smoke coming from the pipe do you think I need to take it to a dealer or tech?

 

my gf's 07 ex is having the same problem.

Battery is good.
New Spark Plugs.

Use to crank after 3 tries. Now it's just dead, had a mechanic come check it out and he said its the starter. I took it off and took it to autozone to get it checked and it passed. But I was told that even a shitty starter will pass because its starting by itself. Compared to when connected to the car it starts the flywheel, engine, and all kinds of other stuff. Im not sure what to do either. This sounds like a factory problem though

 

You probably somehow flooded the engine, the smoke was from the excess fuel, it will burn off and be fine, you probably just saved yourself a few hundred dollars, why go to the dealer and give it to him now.

In the future if you have the same problem you know how to save yourself much grief and a few hundred.

 

I've seen this before....on my car a 99 Accord and other accords....the problem lies within the starter switch..or should I say the ignition switch...When you turn the key the engine cranks and starts, you release the key to the run position, the dash lights come on and the engine dies.....right? It's because the run "lug" within your switch is worn and most times will not supply the 12 volts to keep the car running. There was was service bullitin about this a couple a years ago. Best of luck with this.
Bligh

 

That ign should be easy enough to check out pull off the plastic cover and unplug the wire harness going to the key switch, if you get a new Ign. switch just plug it in and give it a try.

You won't be able to drive it unless you unlock the other switch first, but this should give you a functioning car.

I have seen a problem like this on older GM cars, burning up one lug on the ign switch, on those cars the main accessories wire would melt and the car would run but nothing worked.

Good luck it's worth a shot for the price of the switch.

 

Same thing happened on my '01 civic. They had to have a recall cause the steering column would start smoking from melting wires.

 

I can't start a thread but I had my alternator and battery tested after I got it started. When they did the test they said my alternator was putting out 52 amps. It says I have an 80 amp alternator how do I know if 52 amps is normal?

 

It might push 80 amps if the battery was completely dead, or the 80 amps would show if you had an enormous load on the battery, like heating fan and rear window defog radio and everything power going at the same time.

The alt will only push to the battery what the regulator tells it to push your battery was on the way up and did not need as many amps to run what it had to run.

The important part is it's putting out.

 

For future reference and searchers, my brother's ECU ended up getting wiped somehow (according to Honda, he took it to a dealership). They charged him like $150 or something and his car works fine now.