Lca bolt problem gets worse.
well i bought a boltout kit and tried to get off the 40lb torqued lca bolt thats connected to the brake, not the shocks, and i got it to move a little then the head of the bolt just popped right off, what should i do, i'm about fed up with my car foreal because i already broke the shock bolt too.
Last edited by LavishTheKid; Jan 17, 2011 at 02:13 PM.
Cutting it out with a torch is probably the only option you really have.
Why are you trying to take the lca out anyway? No reason to if the bushings aren't bad.
If you plan on putting on an aftermarket lca, be prepared to repeat this process in about 3-6 months unless its a function7 lca. All others last about that long before the bushings tear.
Good Luck
Why are you trying to take the lca out anyway? No reason to if the bushings aren't bad.
If you plan on putting on an aftermarket lca, be prepared to repeat this process in about 3-6 months unless its a function7 lca. All others last about that long before the bushings tear.
Good Luck
Cutting it out with a torch is probably the only option you really have.
Why are you trying to take the lca out anyway? No reason to if the bushings aren't bad.
If you plan on putting on an aftermarket lca, be prepared to repeat this process in about 3-6 months unless its a function7 lca. All others last about that long before the bushings tear.
Good Luck
Why are you trying to take the lca out anyway? No reason to if the bushings aren't bad.
If you plan on putting on an aftermarket lca, be prepared to repeat this process in about 3-6 months unless its a function7 lca. All others last about that long before the bushings tear.
Good Luck
Buy an extractor set, and drill the stud then use the extractor to bring out the broken stud. More than likely your hub is bent, that's why it's not lining up.
I don't really know to be honest. I have always just torched them out when they were either siezed or the head broke off.
Like bones said, maybe an extractor set would work. Although if it is siezed in by rust, it will probably just turn and not come out.
Best of luck to you.
Like bones said, maybe an extractor set would work. Although if it is siezed in by rust, it will probably just turn and not come out.
Best of luck to you.
well ima have to buy a drill, what kind should i buy and and how much will it cost, i'm 16 yrs old so i'm not very familiar with this stuff, and i'm on a budget.
I also don't care about the lower control arm because i have new lca's that i'm going to put on, and new springs and shocks.
i'm just trying to get the lca off so i can put the new one on.
I also don't care about the lower control arm because i have new lca's that i'm going to put on, and new springs and shocks.
i'm just trying to get the lca off so i can put the new one on.
Last edited by LavishTheKid; Jan 18, 2011 at 04:45 PM.
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Use a sawzall to cut the other side of the bolt off between the shock and lca.
It will pop off then you'll have to punch the bolt out fo the strut Or even press it out
It will pop off then you'll have to punch the bolt out fo the strut Or even press it out
Well whichever bolt it is do what I said cut the bolt ot eithe side of it if you have to. I've don't it a million times which accords n tegs at the junkyard. Them bolts are constantly getting seized
What I've done twice now is use bolt extractors with a two foot breaker bar and busted off the welded on nuts, then use a smaller extractor that will bite into the remaining bolt piece and just break that off too. Very similar result to cutting off the bolt ends. Might not work if the cars on the ground as you have to hammer the extractors on and use a long breaker bar.
i had this fiasco with several of my rear suspension bolts, in particular those shock bolts, they are way to hard to drill out with anything but cobalt drill bits, your gona have to get creative, and have a ready supply of MAP gas around on a compact torch. You should be able to access the other end in the trailing arm but its not gona be an easy way to get it out. Do yourself a favor and pick up a gigantic tub of anti seize, and get into the habit of putting that on suspension bolts.
well, i'm just going to use a angle grinder to cut the lca from the RTA Bolt and then just use the drill with cobalt drill bits and get it out with a extractor or w/e.
I already bought all brand new oem bolts, and 2 brand new lca's with new shocks just need to get these stupid stock ones off and i'll be happy.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Might have to pull the entire trailing arm and LCA off together and them do some cutting on the floor to get them off.
And I also suggest investing in some sort of impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric if you don't have air.
I have never used anti-seize on my suspension bolts and I have never broken one either, which I attribute to always using either an electric or pneumatic impact wrench. I've never had to use hand tools when breaking suspension bolts loose thank goodness.
And I also suggest investing in some sort of impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric if you don't have air.
I have never used anti-seize on my suspension bolts and I have never broken one either, which I attribute to always using either an electric or pneumatic impact wrench. I've never had to use hand tools when breaking suspension bolts loose thank goodness.
Might have to pull the entire trailing arm and LCA off together and them do some cutting on the floor to get them off.
And I also suggest investing in some sort of impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric if you don't have air.
I have never used anti-seize on my suspension bolts and I have never broken one either, which I attribute to always using either an electric or pneumatic impact wrench. I've never had to use hand tools when breaking suspension bolts loose thank goodness.
And I also suggest investing in some sort of impact wrench, either pneumatic or electric if you don't have air.
I have never used anti-seize on my suspension bolts and I have never broken one either, which I attribute to always using either an electric or pneumatic impact wrench. I've never had to use hand tools when breaking suspension bolts loose thank goodness.
as suggested, use a breaker bar and socket to bust off the welded nut at the front. then use the socket to turn the bolt at that end. this should break it free, and you should be able to punch it out from the rear
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
My car did a stint in Atlanta with the previous (original) owner in the late 1990's, that's as far south as it's been.
Well then I dont have a clue why I thought you were in florida. Lol. There is a little snow on the ground in maryland right now.
Yeah IDK why honda didnt adress this properly at assembly time, a few pennys worth of antisieze woulda went a long way here from the factory. in any even after you go through the painstaking hastle of getting this fixed be sure to antisieze the **** out of the entire bolt so its in the bushing and on threds
well i got the left side lca off but now theirs just a little bit of of the bolt left in the hole and i finally got a torch
and i'm having trouble with the right lca i'm trying to get the RTA bolt off but it's like its rubber in the thread or something because everytime i try to loosen it, it bounces back.
and i'm having trouble with the right lca i'm trying to get the RTA bolt off but it's like its rubber in the thread or something because everytime i try to loosen it, it bounces back.







