4 door rebuild
hi im new here. i have a 91 civic i just bought. i overpaid for it and i know i need some work done. no worries tho im up for anything. i have picked up a spare d16 block i want to rebuild and replace my current block with. hopefully i can use my d15 head with my new spare. ill keep updating as i go along.
here are some pics to sum up my car.










here are some pics to sum up my car.










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shes running now but after a change of plans. i had to buy a jdm d15b nonvtec because i couldnt swap the water coolant inlet line from the b2 to the a6. so now im just waiting for more money to continue the vtec addition. live and learn! even with the cost of the parts and motor im still saving money over taking it to a shop and having them replace piston rings.
still at it. in fact i just did axles this past weekend. here are the pics.
loosen lugs and spindle nut.

loosen crown and damper bolt/nut.
once ball joint is loose and axle removed from hub this is how it looks.
everything reinstalled, minus spindle nut and crown nut.
this image shows how i had to seperate ball joint. place and raise jack on lower control arm. place wrench between lower control arm and hub. release pressure from jack. if wrench, or piece of all thread in my case, is not ground at this point, step on assembly. it should seperate the ball joint. ( disclaimer: i in no way endorse this method as OSHA safe.)
just another view of the last image.

oh yeah, buy new cotter pin for lower ball joint, tranny fluid, replace axle seals, torque everything down, and have fun. yeah.
loosen lugs and spindle nut.

loosen crown and damper bolt/nut.
once ball joint is loose and axle removed from hub this is how it looks.
everything reinstalled, minus spindle nut and crown nut.
this image shows how i had to seperate ball joint. place and raise jack on lower control arm. place wrench between lower control arm and hub. release pressure from jack. if wrench, or piece of all thread in my case, is not ground at this point, step on assembly. it should seperate the ball joint. ( disclaimer: i in no way endorse this method as OSHA safe.)
just another view of the last image.

oh yeah, buy new cotter pin for lower ball joint, tranny fluid, replace axle seals, torque everything down, and have fun. yeah.
i could have and i am still thinking of doing it the next time i have to replace axles. i plan on staying in the d series for a while so i figured buying one would have been a waste of money..
Or you could have smacked the control arm with a hammer. pops out easy that way sometimes.
- Auto p28's are easier to find, just convert it, i have a pr4 thats chipped and has vtec. for sale ahah but its obd0
- Auto p28's are easier to find, just convert it, i have a pr4 thats chipped and has vtec. for sale ahah but its obd0
I prefer hitting the control arm with a hammer. Using a balljoint fork usually rips the boot. What I do is put a pry bar wedged in, and press down on the control arm as I hit the arm. Either I have someone press down on it, or I use my feet and lay on my back. Use both hands to hold the hammer and swing has hard as you can.
been a while since i posted here. still cruising but doin mostly maintenance work on the saloon. 150 miles a day aint no joke on a 20 year old car!! gettin to know bolt sizes and thread pitches by look and feel tho. ha.


