power down during power shift...
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,190
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From: Local Ice cream man / bay area 510/925
obd2 to obd1
lsvtec
has only done it twice....
checked all grounds, they are proper.
checked vtec solenoid it is proper
some reason the car powered down during power shift, then came right back on.....
new coil , new cap n rotor in distributor...
everything is new, spark plugs, wires...
any inputs apreciated.
lsvtec
has only done it twice....
checked all grounds, they are proper.
checked vtec solenoid it is proper
some reason the car powered down during power shift, then came right back on.....
new coil , new cap n rotor in distributor...
everything is new, spark plugs, wires...
any inputs apreciated.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
If by power shifting you mean shifting without closing the throttle (which by the way is murder on drivetrain components), you probably just experienced the transmission having to yank the engine RPM down way lower than it was in the previous gear (and from the engine RPM having shot up as you released the clutch to shift but kept the throttle open).
I have broken transmissions trying to power shift. I don't recommend anyone do this.
I have broken transmissions trying to power shift. I don't recommend anyone do this.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Faster,better,worse'r-nevertheless I'm staying with the old, let go of gas and shift fast, method.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Lol dude was making a joke Fast & Furious reference. Double clutching is really only used when downshifting, and really only if your synchros aren't working properly. It's never used for upshifting except for heavy duty transmissions with straight cut (instead of helical cut) gears.
Hell yea that quote never made sense to be in that movie, sounded like they was all granny shifting lol
Honestly, I can admit I'm extremly hard on my tranny and have powershifted my cars since I started to drive. I have had no issues except with my old 91 si tranny, that's was before I learned the effects of not using honda mtf
Honestly, I can admit I'm extremly hard on my tranny and have powershifted my cars since I started to drive. I have had no issues except with my old 91 si tranny, that's was before I learned the effects of not using honda mtf
Thanks
I would only recommend using honda mtf
Keeps your from crappin out syncs
Also believe it does something to the running temp of the tranny but not sure
Keeps your from crappin out syncs
Also believe it does something to the running temp of the tranny but not sure
I got a lot to say I guess, I've been on much longer before a couple weeks ago tho lol
Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans
Same goes for autos, if you ever ridden in a auto accord or teg that has dextron in it, they shift like your grandmother trying to learn stick at 90yo
Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans
Same goes for autos, if you ever ridden in a auto accord or teg that has dextron in it, they shift like your grandmother trying to learn stick at 90yo
I got a lot to say I guess, I've been on much longer before a couple weeks ago tho lol
Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans
Same goes for autos, if you ever ridden in a auto accord or teg that has dextron in it, they shift like your grandmother trying to learn stick at 90yo
Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans
Same goes for autos, if you ever ridden in a auto accord or teg that has dextron in it, they shift like your grandmother trying to learn stick at 90yo
Ima be running valvoline 10w30 in my trans after i flush it out with some used mtf.
I hope you realize what you just posted.
"I would only recommend using honda mtf
Keeps your from crappin out syncs"
and then you say
"Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans"
Is it me or uh yeah. I see ure posts in almost every tread posible here on HT.
"I would only recommend using honda mtf
Keeps your from crappin out syncs"
and then you say
"Honda mtfs lubricating properties make it perfect for just enough but not too much lubrication of the synchros, which is usually the failing part of honda trans"
Is it me or uh yeah. I see ure posts in almost every tread posible here on HT.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,973
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Do not use motor oil in your transmission. It's okay in a pinch, but motor oil doesn't contain the necessary friction modifiers for best synchronizer operation. Whatever you do, DO NOT use synthetic motor oil. The purpose of synthetic motor oil - to reduce friction as much as possible - means the synchros have to work even harder when you shift. Gear synchros require a certain amount of friction to operate properly, hence the friction modifiers in MTF.
Now I have heard that the new(er) formulation of Honda MTF is very good. Tons of people use it with great success.
Another good option is GM Synchromesh fluid, the Friction Modified version, if you can find it. I have been using GM SM FM in my GS-R for nearly 150K miles, changed about every 25K miles or so. I'm just a couple months away from 300K miles on my GS-R, on the original engine and transmission with all original internals, and it still shifts smooth as buttah
Now that's not to say it wouldn't have gotten this far using Honda MTF. I can't say that for sure. All I know is that GM SM FM is a really great transmission fluid for Honda manual transmissions. I have enough in my garage to last a couple more years, and then I'll probably switch back to Honda MTF if I still have the car by then.
I would not recommend going with the Pennzoil version of Synchromesh. It is NOT the same as GM SM Friction Modified, and I can't guarantee good or bad results.
Now I have heard that the new(er) formulation of Honda MTF is very good. Tons of people use it with great success.
Another good option is GM Synchromesh fluid, the Friction Modified version, if you can find it. I have been using GM SM FM in my GS-R for nearly 150K miles, changed about every 25K miles or so. I'm just a couple months away from 300K miles on my GS-R, on the original engine and transmission with all original internals, and it still shifts smooth as buttah

Now that's not to say it wouldn't have gotten this far using Honda MTF. I can't say that for sure. All I know is that GM SM FM is a really great transmission fluid for Honda manual transmissions. I have enough in my garage to last a couple more years, and then I'll probably switch back to Honda MTF if I still have the car by then.
I would not recommend going with the Pennzoil version of Synchromesh. It is NOT the same as GM SM Friction Modified, and I can't guarantee good or bad results.
Do not use motor oil in your transmission. It's okay in a pinch, but motor oil doesn't contain the necessary friction modifiers for best synchronizer operation. Whatever you do, DO NOT use synthetic motor oil. The purpose of synthetic motor oil - to reduce friction as much as possible - means the synchros have to work even harder when you shift. Gear synchros require a certain amount of friction to operate properly, hence the friction modifiers in MTF.
Now I have heard that the new(er) formulation of Honda MTF is very good. Tons of people use it with great success.
Another good option is GM Synchromesh fluid, the Friction Modified version, if you can find it. I have been using GM SM FM in my GS-R for nearly 150K miles, changed about every 25K miles or so. I'm just a couple months away from 300K miles on my GS-R, on the original engine and transmission with all original internals, and it still shifts smooth as buttah
Now that's not to say it wouldn't have gotten this far using Honda MTF. I can't say that for sure. All I know is that GM SM FM is a really great transmission fluid for Honda manual transmissions. I have enough in my garage to last a couple more years, and then I'll probably switch back to Honda MTF if I still have the car by then.
I would not recommend going with the Pennzoil version of Synchromesh. It is NOT the same as GM SM Friction Modified, and I can't guarantee good or bad results.
Now I have heard that the new(er) formulation of Honda MTF is very good. Tons of people use it with great success.
Another good option is GM Synchromesh fluid, the Friction Modified version, if you can find it. I have been using GM SM FM in my GS-R for nearly 150K miles, changed about every 25K miles or so. I'm just a couple months away from 300K miles on my GS-R, on the original engine and transmission with all original internals, and it still shifts smooth as buttah

Now that's not to say it wouldn't have gotten this far using Honda MTF. I can't say that for sure. All I know is that GM SM FM is a really great transmission fluid for Honda manual transmissions. I have enough in my garage to last a couple more years, and then I'll probably switch back to Honda MTF if I still have the car by then.
I would not recommend going with the Pennzoil version of Synchromesh. It is NOT the same as GM SM Friction Modified, and I can't guarantee good or bad results.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,190
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From: Local Ice cream man / bay area 510/925
OK tranny is legit, its only got 60K from 2001 LS. no grinds or popouts, very solid. I have driven many hondas, and this is by far one of the cleanest trannys ive had.... just fyi... seems as if the power just shuts off, I dont know why. just as if I took the key out of the ignition. then it came back... it happens very fast, and I tried to pay attention to all of the symptoms... it is only when I really pop the clutch hard (6 puck unsprung)
OK tranny is legit, its only got 60K from 2001 LS. no grinds or popouts, very solid. I have driven many hondas, and this is by far one of the cleanest trannys ive had.... just fyi... seems as if the power just shuts off, I dont know why. just as if I took the key out of the ignition. then it came back... it happens very fast, and I tried to pay attention to all of the symptoms... it is only when I really pop the clutch hard (6 puck unsprung)







