While at the track I have my car moving forward while staged and on 2 step. It also is difficult to shift while under load. Car shifts great while driving in pits and does not move while doing burn out in 3rd. I have replaced CMC, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, lines, adjusted pedal with pedal stop, and problem continues. Bseries has a 3AN clutch line, Tilton valve, Omni CMC, Stage 3 Clutch Masters clutch and pressure plate. What could this be???

 

Tilton

 

tilton valve or the disc is sticking to the pressure plate or flywheel a little. thats why they have staging brakes.

 

Like I said, I replaced everything I wrote down. Moves forward even with ebrake up. Did this before Tilton valve was put in or replaced any parts.

 

So u think they make staging brakes to band aid a clutch problem

 

I have the same issue and was told that my clutch was slipping. Recently bought a cc twin but have not tried it yet.

 

Does anyone think it could be a throw out bearing issue?

 

Sigh.....

 

FML HELP!

 

throwout bearing would have been my first guess. Or you're preloading too much.

 

Sounds like you have a lot of odds and ends aftermarket parts in there. You're going to have to pull it apart and carefully inspect everything. A lot of aftermarket parts usually means it will be harder for all the parts to work together properly. Do you have the clutch adjusted properly? Maybe it's got crankwalk...LOL

 

Thanks for the input, keep it coming...

 

yah thats exactly why they make staging brakes... didnt you know that?? mr.knowitall1320 sigh sigh sigh

 

ok so basiccally your clutch isnt disengaging tottally? and your bearing is at full travel when pedals down? sounds like pressure plate is ****ed...

 

To my knowledge staging brakes are for preloading while staging for a quicker launch not to fix the issue I'm having. But thanks again.

 

Gramps called....he wants his cable tranny back

 

The clutch you have is the kevlar clutch right? If so I'd try switching to 6 puck ceramic instead. Have had a kevlar clutch give me a similar problem before.

 

make sure your clutch fork isnt bent if it could possibly be not be disengaging the pressure plate

 

when my clutch fork was bent the clutch didnt work at all

 

LOL I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM

 

Ok lets clear this up the staging brake is not used to stop this problem its to preload before launching. The car should not ever move at all when the clutch is pushed in even on the 2step. You need to simply lay on your back under the steering wheel and adjust the clutch master rod connected to the clutch pedal. Its a 12mm just adjust it out so it pushes the rod in further. This will also explain why it wont shift under load, the clutch isnt fully disengaging. Had same problem with my CC twin when i first put it in. It was just the adjustment

 

didnt read past half way. does the clutch have the correct freeplay? stage 3 cm is a single so i would rule out needing a pedal stop i had a stage 4 for 5 years in my car.

if it has too much freeplay, the clutch will not totally disengage.

 

Try throw out bearing. Prob to thick.

Marc P

 

When the car was first at the track it had a " prototype " single disk clutch. With stock clutch slave - master cyl - and lines. Before installing the clutch I noticed the rivets were higher than the pad on the disk. So I called the manufacturer and they said its designed that way... so I let it eat they way it was. Everything was smooth and there were absoutly no signs if a clutch problem on the dyno. The dyno numbers were way off for the combo. But it ran great. So we go to the track...2 passes it was mint. Then it started slipping bad. So we had a CM stage 3 clutch with about 25 hits on it...a tilton valve with the middle size jet in it.. a new -3 line and an omni clutch master. All this was put on at once. We returned the car and it picked up 30 HP.. with a clutch change. The omni master is a disaster to set up with out a pedal stop. It pushes so much fluid. So I turned the CM CYL rod to have full extension... but used the pedal stop to keep the pedal from over extending. The reason I did this. The pedal had to be adjusted so far down to keep it from smashing the pressure plate that you couldn't take up the free play with clutch sensor. The clutch 100% disengages now. But hasn't fixed the shifting/rolling problem.
Were gonna buy a twin so hopefully that will fix this. Sucks telling someone to drop the cash on a clutch and have it do the same thing. BTW free on the valve is pointing away from the master...

 

^ Go back to stock clutch slave. Take my advice OMNI is not needed and sucks!


Marc P