Now that I got my H22 running strong I have a hella time getting it to stop at 100+MPH. The rotors get hot and the damn steering wheel starts shaking like a leaf. Who sells good rotors at a good price? I guess I need slotted/drilled and some decent pads too.

 

EBC crossdrilled, and partially slotted (so they don't crack). you can get them from tirerack, for a decent price. run these and green stuff or red stuff pads. depending on how hard you drive..I run these on my 97SH. they're tight.

D
97SH

 

How do insert a pics, and ill show you what they look like?

D
97SH

 

Currently I'm running some stock-size brembo slotted/drilled rotors up front, and powerslot rotors in the rear with axxis metal master pads all the way around, and I LOVE the setup (I also have braided brakelines).......the setup does fine on the roadcourse with minimal fade towards the end of a lapping session, and in town is great too......and I've had no problems with weird rotor wear or anything....
Brian

 

Hit the button that says IMAGE and then put the URL to the picture in between the brackets that appear after you hit the IMAGE button. You have to host the image yourself, or have a link to the pic, you cant upload the pic to the forum.

 

I can get you Brembo blank rotors with PBR Metal Master pads for a really good price if you're interested.

We've had discussions before and most people agree that cross-drilled or slotted rotors are not necessary.

 

i have axxis metal masters on my stock rotors. brembo makes good rotors.

 

brembo blanks - they are the most robust yet affordable rotors out there. very cheap through NOPI also available through collettimotorsports.com

i use Hawk HP+'s and love them. collettimotorsports.com

 

I just bought Brembo rotors for a 94 VTEC for $34 a rotor. And the rears made my Brady for $16 a rotor. I got a GREAT deal.
Anyone try the Axxis Ultimates before?? Is $95 for the fronts a good deal??

 

Is there any advantage with using Brembo stock size blank rotors over Honda- OE pieces?

 

Can you use 4th gen Vtec rotors on Si calipers? or is the Vtec calipers the same as the Si, and the rotors are just differant sizes?

 

YO firedrake, do ya find they those really rust and look really ugly after a couple days??? (the brembos on front?) or do you have stock rims to cover them up?

 

1. the steering wheel shakes b/c your rotor is warped, you could have the rotor machined, and that should take care of the shake; if there's enough material still present, or if the rotor isn't warped past repair.

2. you DO NOT need cross driller/slotted rotors, period. x-drilled rotors will crack on your prleude, just like they do on the f355's and porsche's. the only advent to using x-drilled rotors is reducing unsprung weight when trying to squeeze in the largest diameter rotor under a wheel, w/ out having to resort to 'exotic' composits to do so. slotted rotors, are also unneccesary as the 'gassing out' that they try to minimize is an artifactual problem no longer seen w/ modern brake pad materials; you don't need them. personally, i have a '99 prelude, and since the front rotors are shared b/w the legend gs/itr and 5th gen prelude, i use atuozone rotors, b/c if you track your car, youll realize that rotors are a WEAR ITEM and not a decoration! you may want to do the same, b/c autozone offers a lifetime warranty on the rotors; warp your next set, and autozone picks up the tab.

3. as far as pads are concerend, id like to know how your using your car; ie, auto-x, road race, open track days, etc., that would give me a better idea of your intended use. personally, i used itr front pads in my '99 forever on the street and they were excellent, as most oem pads are; low noise, cold bite, decent wear; now that i track my car, often ~ once a month, ive begun to use carbotech panther + pads, and they are amazing; and are actually quite streetable, if you can excues the noise and dust; then again, my car is not a 'show car' so i don't care about dusty front wheels. also, FYI, i have no brake ducts, oem brake fluid, on oem blank SOLID rotors, and panther + pads; and ran at willow springs, big track, all day long, two weekend in a row, and never boiled the brake fluid nor overheated the brakes, in 106+ degree ambient temps. good pads make ALL the difference in the world!

4. you want to replacey your brake components step-wise; as in, do not combine fresh rotors w/ fresh pads, either get new pads, scuff your old rotors w/ heavy grit sandpaper, and bed in your new pads. or, get your new rotors, 'bed' them in for a week or soon, and then install your new pads. otherwise, you wont get what you paid for.

remember, there's a lot of hype going around, and a lot of people trying to make a buck of misinformation; usually the simplest solution is the soundest one.




[Modified by bb6h22a, 4:04 PM 9/24/2002]

 

Everything on those brembo rotors rusted except the place where the pads make contact.......any rotor you get will rust unless they're coated (like zinc or cadmium plated).....my rear powerslots came cadmium plated and they haven't rusted at all.....it looks a little ugly through my 17's but not bad.....
Brian

 

i was just saying that because what i did that worked really good was i put masking tape to cover the area rotor surface and took a drill and used a wire brush to take off all the rust and give it a good polish, then spray painted the top edge of the rotor and the part where the wheel connects...(well where u can see the rust the most) with a high temp clear coat paint, so no need to coat the whole rotor, just paint those areas...works really good, no rain penatrates it at all...still shiny after 2 months since i did that...looks like new! Kind of a pain in the *** to do, but well worth it, if you can't stand looking at the rust in there, everytime u look at your car!

 

we've had this argue before, a big one on hp.com if anyone remembers, but i have powerstop crossdrilled rotors and it reduced brake fade ernormusly...got them for $50 a piece though nopi...i use the cheap $10 pads from advance and they stop great.

 

I guess maybe I should chime in, because, well, I don't think anyone has gone threw as many rotors/pads as I have..

1. Crossdrilled/slotted rotors, if you think they work better than solid rotors, its in your head.. Why, because I have Raced, yes Raced with them, only to have the crossdrills crack, and the slots clog up with pad material, also, they tend to eat up pads faster..

2. Get a set of solid OEM type rotors.. Doesn't matter what kind, I have used brembo for years, but have started using NAPA/Autozone generic rotors recently, and work just as well and wear rate is just as good.

3. There is different types of pad compounds out there, to suit your needs. I HIGHLY recomend Axxis Ultimates, mainly from Andie Lin @ www.cobaltfriction.com , simply because he knows the most, and has the best prices. They are medium dusting, bite well cold, and always has a stong pedal, and are cheap! There are other alternatives, I have just had the best experience with the ultimates as the best street pad for the price..

4. Stainless steel lines/removing your splash guards/and fresh brake fluid is good to use as well...

BTW, I have proved that even solid rotors crack

 

i notice not to many companies make caliper upgrades for the prelude, if i do a 5 lug conversion from the 5th gen prelude can i use ITR brake and rotor setups? or is there no way that they will mount up?

 

I don't doubt that for racing the cross drilled and slotted would crack and wear faster, but don't ya think for most of the guys on here that just use them for street, that they would actually last longer then blanks...since there is no insane amount of heat being put on them... And since they are ventilated it should cool better and wear slower when not racing, shouldn't it????

I'm no expert with rotors or anything, just makes sense to me! But i totally agree with you on using them for racing though!!

 

..you can just swap in the Legend gs/NSX calipers and use redrilled NSX/GS rotors, or Accord wagon rotors; read about the parts needed, here.

Also, search this site for specific fitment issues, as I know that there are a number of 4th gen prelude owners w/ that brake setup.

 

well, for street, you really won't notice the difference between the two (solid vs xdrilled/slotted) so its really not worth the money, all the stoping is in the pads and tires, trust me... I once thought I had good brakes with xdrilled/slotted, well, I found out its the pad that makes by far the most difference..

About them cooling, that doesn't really matter on the street, because your brakes simply do not get taht hot.. yes, they are too hot to touch at times, but not hot enough to melt the ABS lines and ball joint boots like I have...

 

yeah i know i can do that i was looking at more an aftermarket kit like the spoon or endless

 

no sence wasting money in that stuff, just make sure you have 4th gen VTEC rotors and either ITR/Prelude VTEC/Legend/NSX calipers, and your good to go, like I said, put some good pads and fresh fluid in there...

 

Has anyone tried the porterfield pads? We put a set on a Civic we built years ago and just the pads made a world of difference.Right now i have the EBC green and i am not getting anymore,also i have cross drilled rotors for over two years and they work fine with no cracks.

 

Has anyone ever tried the AEM brake pads?? any good or not worth it?? i would appreciate any feedback you guys can offer..