Where can i find a detail instructions online on assemblying blocks??
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,792
Likes: 0
From: OUT OF THE BASMENT, US
Where can i find a detail instructions online on assemblying blocks??
I already have a helms manual but i would like as much info that i can possbly get.
I am assemblying a b18a block for my ls/vtec and just need as much info i can possbly find to help me.
Thanks
I already have a helms manual but i would like as much info that i can possbly get.
I am assemblying a b18a block for my ls/vtec and just need as much info i can possbly find to help me.
Thanks
lol You just knew he was gonna say that. 
There's lotsa good tips here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.html

There's lotsa good tips here:
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.html
Trending Topics
Certainly nothing wrong with that. Try here:
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/index.html
Good luck.
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/index.html
Good luck.
I'm currently in the process of doing on, but the amount of visual aid is pretty minimal right now b/c I hate having to pick up my camera with oily hands. I wish I had somebody to help me shoot the pics.
I've still got a B18B block to build, so whatever pictures I get will be mix-matched b/w my B18C1 and the B18B1.
I've still got a B18B block to build, so whatever pictures I get will be mix-matched b/w my B18C1 and the B18B1.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,792
Likes: 0
From: OUT OF THE BASMENT, US
ya me and my freind are planning on doing this on saturday so i wnat to be as prepared as i possibly can be-theres no such thing as being too prepared as far as im concerned
Make all your checks and clearances first.
Start with the piston ring end gap. That way you can put the pistons/rods in first.
After you're sure that the ring end gaps come up within spec, install the rings on the pistons with a ring expander. At this point, you can choose to check the ring-to-groove clearances, but it requires a really small feeler gauge.
Make sure the rings are placed with the correct alignment with respect to the piston wrist pin.
To install the pistons, use a piston ring compressor ($7 @ Sears or autozone). Put the little rod bolt booties on and set the piston onto the bore so that it rests on the sleeve (it should hang on the oil ring). Put the compressor over the piston and tighten it down to compress the rings. You might need to push the piston back up a little to get the last oil ring into the compressor. Use a hammer handle to tap the piston into the cylinder bore. You'll hear a "snap/pop" when all of the rings are in the bore.
NOTE: Make sure you label the bottom halves of the conrods (aka conrod caps) with the same number stamped on that rod. That way you won't mix them up when you separate the halves to install the pistons.
Put all the bearing halves into their respective places. Don't lube yet.
Put in the #4 main bearing cap thrust washers. Set the crank in, but have your friend help you to arange the conrods so they don't catch or scratch the crank journals (if you don't have enough booties to go around). Then plastigage the rods. Step torque the rod cap bolts from 14 to 23 (might be different in your Helm - I listed B18B specs, which should be the same, but double-check). Do #1 and #4 and then rotate the crank 180 and plastigage #2 and #3.
Then check crank main journal runout. Ideally you should have checked this when you first took apart the block...it's more efficient if the crank does end up being out of round.
Then plastigage the main journals....all at the same time. Step torque the cap bolts from 22 to 56. Make sure you know how to read the plastigage correctly. Wider is tighter. Between the lines is looser.
If all the bearing clearances come up within spec, then you can pull the crank, clean off the plastigage (brake parts cleaner), lube up the bearings with assembly lube, and then proceed to torque everything down for final assembly.
The last check you might want to do is crankshaft endplay. It'll probably come up into spec, but why leave it to assumption.
Once you have the rotating assembly together, rotate it and check to make sure it doesn't hit anything...the oil squirters, the block, etc.
The hardest part about not having a step-by-step guide is that it's uncertain where to start and sometimes details are left out when you final the Helm's b/c not everything is in order....so you have to flip back-and-forth in the book to look for the little stuff.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:03 AM 9/26/2002]
Start with the piston ring end gap. That way you can put the pistons/rods in first.
After you're sure that the ring end gaps come up within spec, install the rings on the pistons with a ring expander. At this point, you can choose to check the ring-to-groove clearances, but it requires a really small feeler gauge.
Make sure the rings are placed with the correct alignment with respect to the piston wrist pin.
To install the pistons, use a piston ring compressor ($7 @ Sears or autozone). Put the little rod bolt booties on and set the piston onto the bore so that it rests on the sleeve (it should hang on the oil ring). Put the compressor over the piston and tighten it down to compress the rings. You might need to push the piston back up a little to get the last oil ring into the compressor. Use a hammer handle to tap the piston into the cylinder bore. You'll hear a "snap/pop" when all of the rings are in the bore.
NOTE: Make sure you label the bottom halves of the conrods (aka conrod caps) with the same number stamped on that rod. That way you won't mix them up when you separate the halves to install the pistons.
Put all the bearing halves into their respective places. Don't lube yet.
Put in the #4 main bearing cap thrust washers. Set the crank in, but have your friend help you to arange the conrods so they don't catch or scratch the crank journals (if you don't have enough booties to go around). Then plastigage the rods. Step torque the rod cap bolts from 14 to 23 (might be different in your Helm - I listed B18B specs, which should be the same, but double-check). Do #1 and #4 and then rotate the crank 180 and plastigage #2 and #3.
Then check crank main journal runout. Ideally you should have checked this when you first took apart the block...it's more efficient if the crank does end up being out of round.
Then plastigage the main journals....all at the same time. Step torque the cap bolts from 22 to 56. Make sure you know how to read the plastigage correctly. Wider is tighter. Between the lines is looser.
If all the bearing clearances come up within spec, then you can pull the crank, clean off the plastigage (brake parts cleaner), lube up the bearings with assembly lube, and then proceed to torque everything down for final assembly.
The last check you might want to do is crankshaft endplay. It'll probably come up into spec, but why leave it to assumption.
Once you have the rotating assembly together, rotate it and check to make sure it doesn't hit anything...the oil squirters, the block, etc.
The hardest part about not having a step-by-step guide is that it's uncertain where to start and sometimes details are left out when you final the Helm's b/c not everything is in order....so you have to flip back-and-forth in the book to look for the little stuff.
[Modified by IN VTEC, 10:03 AM 9/26/2002]
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,792
Likes: 0
From: OUT OF THE BASMENT, US
thanks man that helps a lot. Just one question though-I know theres a tool to put on the crank pulley but is there any other way to go opun this without buying this tool?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
glicious30
Honda Civic (2001 - 2005)
7
Nov 23, 2007 02:46 PM
vtec69
Hybrid / Engine Swaps
7
Sep 27, 2002 12:56 PM



