main relay gone?
the other day i went out to my crx which has been giving me difficulties since my a6 swap. I go to start it and it turns over but starts jerking....it has done this before....well finally it dies....I try to start the car....adn alls I get is a very loud ticking from right where the main relay is and my engine trying to turn over....
to make a long story short I checked all fuses in the engine bay...they are good....if your main relay ticks...and your car wont start I would think that is the problem?? how mcuh for a new one???
to make a long story short I checked all fuses in the engine bay...they are good....if your main relay ticks...and your car wont start I would think that is the problem?? how mcuh for a new one???
is your fuel pump working with the key in the on pos.?
if not prolly the main relay , think they run about 60 bucks
all the same (mpfi and tbi)
[Modified by Doctor CorteZ, 3:28 PM 9/24/2002]
if not prolly the main relay , think they run about 60 bucks
all the same (mpfi and tbi)
[Modified by Doctor CorteZ, 3:28 PM 9/24/2002]
If the relay is clicking, that should mean it's ok, it will cclick once when you first turn the ignition to the on position, then click off when the fuel pump has reached the right amount of pressure, then back on again when you're cranking and fuel is being sent into the engine, etc, etc.
The relays cost in the $50.00 range, and usually the problem with a main relay when it goes bad is the car will randomly die after it's been running for a while, then won't start for about 5-10 min. then it's ok again for a while.
Your problem sounds to me more like what I had with my car, it turned out to be the ignitor in the distributor. Check if you have spark.
Edit: I didn't see the "very loud" part in your post.... it shouldn't be that loud. you may be on the right track after all.
[Modified by thumpu77, 7:36 AM 9/24/2002]
The relays cost in the $50.00 range, and usually the problem with a main relay when it goes bad is the car will randomly die after it's been running for a while, then won't start for about 5-10 min. then it's ok again for a while.
Your problem sounds to me more like what I had with my car, it turned out to be the ignitor in the distributor. Check if you have spark.
Edit: I didn't see the "very loud" part in your post.... it shouldn't be that loud. you may be on the right track after all.
[Modified by thumpu77, 7:36 AM 9/24/2002]
If you have a soldering iron, you can resolder the connections on the back. I did that when mine gave me problems. I have to tell you though, it's a PITA to get it out. But if you want to resolder it, here are a couple of links:
http://www.crxsi.com/resources/repai...ng_main_relay/
http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
http://www.crxsi.com/resources/repai...ng_main_relay/
http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/elec...main-relay.htm
it could be your main relay IF when you turn your key and the engine acts like you arent pushing in the clutch...then again it could be the clutch switch or the fuel pump relay or the starter.......BTW to test your main relay....pull it out....put power to it and test it for continuity....if there is continuity then it is still good
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OK, let's clarify a few things.
The main relay will not prevent the engine from spinning like a clutch switch would.
The main relay provides power to the fuel pump for about 2 seconds when the ignition is first turned on. It de-energizes when the 'check engine' light goes out.
Once the engine fires, the main relay re-enegizes and provides power to the fuel pump again.
The main relay also provides power for the fuel injectors. Those of you with code 16's should take note.
The typical failure mode of the main relay is it developes hairline fractures in the solder joints for the fuel pump or injectors. It rarely is the coil itself, but I wouldn't rule it out. Usually a rapid clicking sound is caused by a low voltage condition. Either a half dead battery, dirty terminals, or poor ground connections due to corrosion or fraying of the wires.
One last possibility, the ignition switch itself may be causing the interuption in power.
[Modified by Perfectionist, 9:21 PM 9/24/2002]
The main relay will not prevent the engine from spinning like a clutch switch would.
The main relay provides power to the fuel pump for about 2 seconds when the ignition is first turned on. It de-energizes when the 'check engine' light goes out.
Once the engine fires, the main relay re-enegizes and provides power to the fuel pump again.
The main relay also provides power for the fuel injectors. Those of you with code 16's should take note.
The typical failure mode of the main relay is it developes hairline fractures in the solder joints for the fuel pump or injectors. It rarely is the coil itself, but I wouldn't rule it out. Usually a rapid clicking sound is caused by a low voltage condition. Either a half dead battery, dirty terminals, or poor ground connections due to corrosion or fraying of the wires.
One last possibility, the ignition switch itself may be causing the interuption in power.
[Modified by Perfectionist, 9:21 PM 9/24/2002]
Thats good info...I swapped ecus the other day to make sure my ecu wasnt funked becuase everything it clicked repeatedly which it now does even when just the accesory switch is on....my ecu light on the ecu just blinked with the click over and over....
Ive talked to a guy I go to school with at UTI...hes got a b16 in his hatch and apparently the same happened to him...his was his wiring from his mpfi conversion to his ecu...he jankyed with the harness a little and it stopped.......now thats prob. not the best thing to do...but I can relate this problem to bad connections prob. at the ecu or injctors....perhaps ground injectors...Ill check that soon.....it sux though worknig 7-1 everyday...then school 230 to 9......
oh well.....Ill also check ign. switch...ive had problems with the car starting before.....well see....I just want to get my car back on the road so I can take it to school since were doing brakes right now and I can get cheap *** replacement parts....through school.....and my brakes are friggin weak...
Ive talked to a guy I go to school with at UTI...hes got a b16 in his hatch and apparently the same happened to him...his was his wiring from his mpfi conversion to his ecu...he jankyed with the harness a little and it stopped.......now thats prob. not the best thing to do...but I can relate this problem to bad connections prob. at the ecu or injctors....perhaps ground injectors...Ill check that soon.....it sux though worknig 7-1 everyday...then school 230 to 9......
oh well.....Ill also check ign. switch...ive had problems with the car starting before.....well see....I just want to get my car back on the road so I can take it to school since were doing brakes right now and I can get cheap *** replacement parts....through school.....and my brakes are friggin weak...
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