Title pretty much sums it up. The CEL and startup process all seem to go perfectly, but the car just cranks and cranks with no spark. Took the ICM to AutoZone and they say it tested as bad, so I replaced it only to have the same issue.

Is there a fuse for just that ICM I should check? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Even if there was a fuse for the ICM it wouldn't cause it to test bad, have the new ICM tested, chances are it was bad out of the box.

 

What car/engine? Does the fuel pump prime?

Also test the coil and check whether the timing belt snapped.

 

All I know is it's a '95 Del Sol 16 valve. It has all the right sounds when I turn the car on, as in the sound of the pump priming, and the CEL turns off after 2 seconds. I can smell fuel from the tail pipe and from the cylinders when I pull a spark plug out after I try starting it, so I'm pretty sure it's getting fuel. I pulled a plug and plugged it into the plug wire and grounded the end of the plug to the valve cover ground, but couldn't see any spark when a friend cranked it.

The engine just suddenly stopped while driving, but maintained all power. Since the ICM tested bad, I didn't have the coil tested, since I figured what are the odds that both components failed simultaneously. Now I'm stuck and am taking it in to the shop if I can't come up with more ideas in about five hours.

Didn't check the timing belt, but the dizzy's rotor spins when I try to start it.

 

open the oil fill cap and have a buddy try and crank it. you should be able to see the cam turning. if you cant then your belt snapped...... or your cam lol.
also try taking some brake cleaner and clean and dry your plugs. by this point your probably flooded. coil is another poss. just because the icm tested bad doesnt mean the coil is good...id have it tested as well.
adam jeffery

p.s. have the people at autozone dont know how to use their equiptment correctly. they may have done it wrong.

 

Test the coil.

 

Had the coil tested and it had half the resistance that it should have. Replaced it and when I tried to start the engine, it fired up for a cycle or two and promptly bogged out. Tried once more and the same thing happened. Tried a third time and got nothing. Pulled a spark plug and it was drenched in gas, and thinking back over the last three days of working on this, I must have filled those cylinders to the brim with fuel. Pulled all four plugs and now I'm just waiting for it to evaporate off and try it after work today.

That third attempt at starting it kind of scared me though, it didn't fire up for a second like the previous two attempts. I'm hoping to hell that the coil didn't fry the ICM or the other way around, but maybe I'm just paranoid after all of this.

 

Don't you have warranty on the parts?

 

"...as long as they haven't been installed" is what AutoZone said. I know, I know **** parts, but I just need this beater to get me through February until I get my loan for the S2K.

 

Check for spark - click spark link in my signature.

 

stuck in the same place right now..

 

im not having any luck with my car turning back on turned off on me i replaced the coil with a good working one. i have spark i got cleaned all my ground to make sure they are good still wont turn on only get crank spark is orangeish not blue. somebody help me plz

 

im not having any luck with my car turning back on turned off on me i replaced the coil with a good working one. i have spark i got cleaned all my ground to make sure they are good still wont turn on only get crank spark is orangeish. ngk spark plugs about 2 months old new wires new rotor. somebody help me plz

 

I am having a very similar problem. Replaced the distributor twice now and get orangish spark with no start. I get fuel and the orange spark so maybe timing is off. I put the engine at TDC before the distributor install. I am starting to think ECU. Help!